Vega Sicilia Celebrates 40 Years of Winemaking Excellence

Certain legendary wines have that hush factor, wines that perch at the pinnacle of perfection throughout the vintages, wines that spring from historical vineyards, wines that stand the test of time. Whisper the name of Tempos Vega Sicilia, one of the most prestigious wineries in the world, and anyone who knows wine will pay attention. Its coveted Unico wine, considered Spain’s “first growth” is classically elegant, rare to find and expensive to purchase. But even with such mythical buzz, Vega Sicilia is not content to sit on its success. The pursuit of perfection is constant, almost obsessively so, and their winery holdings have grown, but not at the expense of excellence.

Vega Sicilia winery, Courtesy of Vega Sicilia

Vega Sicilia is considered the crown jewel of Spanish wine. Located in Northern Spain in the Ribera del Duero region, it was originally founded in 1864 by Bordeaux-trained Spanish winemaker Don Eloy Lecanda y Chaves, who planted Bordeaux varietals along with local Tempranillo, known as Tinto Fino. Over the years, various owners bought and sold the estate, until 1982, when David Álvarez purchased the legendary label. David’s son, Pablo, took over the reins in 1985 as General Manager, then CEO in 1990, and has made it his mission to expand their production of quality wine, always held to the highest standard.

Vega Sicilia vineyard, Courtesy of Vega Sicilia

Pintia vineyard, Courtesy of Vega Sicilia

Macán vineyard, Courtesy of Vega Sicilia

Oremus wines, Courtesy of Vega Sicilia

Pablo Álvarez started out recovering the original vines on the estate, but then immediately pushed forward to modernizing the business and expanding its influence. Four new wineries were created: Alión in 1991, Oremus in 1993, Pintia in 2001, and Bodegas Benjamin de Rothschild-Vega Sicilia in 2009, all unique wines that represent the best of that area, and became pieces of the puzzle that has defined Vega Sicilia. Each winery brought a different dimension to the brand. The Hungarian Oremus project is particularly interesting, as they were the first to make a dry Furmint in the history of Tokaj. The joint venture with Rothschild became crucial as it expanded their international profile. For Vega Sicilia and Pablo Álvarez, the only way to increase the portfolio is to create new wineries in Spain and around the world where they can produce great wines. When asked about these lofty goals, Álvarez said, “It’s very easy to say but very difficult to do”, a nod to the quest for quality in all the wines they produce.

Courtesy of Vega Sicilia

Today, the estate of Vega Sicilia encompasses over 1000 hectares, with 210 of those planted to 24 different clones of Tempranillo grown on 16 soil types. Under Pablo’s leadership, Vega Sicilia seeks perfection in its winegrowing and winemaking. Quality is non-negotiable, and with a patient eye to the process, chemical fertilizers and herbicides are banned with the future hope of organic farming, clonal selections are made of all the varietals planted, grapevines must be 10 years old before its fruit is made into wine, and even growing their own cork trees to avoid faulty corks are just a few of the quality controls that add to the well-deserved excellence of the brand. French and American oak are used in the winemaking, but are made on-site in their own cooperage, another step in ensuring the highest quality.

Vega Sicilia winery, Courtesy of Vega Sicilia

In this 40th year of production under the Álvarez family guidance, Vega Sicilia has achieved many milestones, while maintaining their penchant for quality. Today, they produce over 1.5 million bottles in their five wineries, of which 70% are exported to over 150 countries around the world. Sales have increased exponentially, yet Pablo Álvarez isn’t stopping here. Vega Sicilia announced that a newly created winery, located in Rias Baixas and dedicated to Albariño, will come online next year, with wines bottled in 2025.

Pablo Álvarez of Vega Sicilia

In Vega Sicilia’s continuous effort to get out the word about their excellent wines, Pablo Álvarez traveled to Los Angeles, and along with Mike Miller of Golden State Wine Co, hosted a trade luncheon at Tesse in West Hollywood. Over a mind-blowing multi-course meal, accompanied by a full compliment of Vega Sicilia wines, the magnitude of their brilliance was displayed.

The Oremus Mandolás 2019 is glorious, 100% dry Furmint, with intoxicating aromas of citrus, apple, and a hint of tropical fruit, spice and herbs, a medium bodied savory wine with vibrant acidity, mineral backbone, and a saline character that unfurled on the long finish. Passed canapés accompanied the wine.

Tokaj-Oremus winery in Hungary, Courtesy of Vega Sicilia

Oremus Vineyard, Courtesy of Vega Sicilia

Oremus cellars, Courtesy of Vega Sicilia

The Oremus project came about in 1991, when Hungary began to privatize its wineries in Tokaj. Viewed as an opportunity to expand Vega Sicilia’s international presence, Pablo made the deal in 1993, and today Tokaj-Oremus has 120 hectares of vineyards, all classified as Grand Cru. In Tokaj, Furmint traditionally was made as a sweet wine, but Pablo came up with the idea of a dry white wine in addition to the sweet one. Mandolás was the first dry Furmint from Tokaj, and today, most other Tokaj wineries have followed suit.

First course, the Macán wines were paired with Pork Secreto, Carrot Purée, Brown Butter, and Boudin Noir. The 2018 Macán Clásico and the 2017 Macán are powerful, with black cherry, dark berry, sweet spice, and licorice on the nose, and an intense palate of blackberry, cassis, and spice, with a core of fresh minerality encased in a full body with firm tannins. Both wines are 100% Tempranillo from La Rioja, and they are the same wine, but the Clásico is aged three years before release. They are stunning wines, deep and structured with a very long finish.

Macán winery, La Rioja, Courtesy of Vega Sicilia

Macán vineyards, La Rioja, Courtesy of Vega Sicilia

Macán microfermentation tanks, Courtesy of Vega Sicilia

Macán cellars, Courtesy of Vega Siciia

The Bodegas Benjamin de Rothschild-Vega Sicilia Macán winery is a 50/50 family venture in La Rioja, that started in secret when both families began acquiring vineyard land over 13 years ago. In 2013, the two Macán wines were created, Macán and Macán Clásico, grown over 100 hectares of vineyards averaging 30 years old. Defined as “The Harmony of Beauty”, they are Rioja wine in the very finest sense of the word, elegant and expressive, an authentic vision of a classic wine region by two important winemaking families.

Second course, Duck Magret with Creamy Polenta, Fresh Herbs, and Duck Jus served as the background for three of Vega Sicilia’s modern style wines, Pintia, Alión, and Valbuena.

The 2017 Pintia is opulent and juicy, with an intense character and silky texture, channeling blackberry, spice, licorice, and underbrush, smokey and earthy in a delightful way, finishing very long with ripe tannins.

Pintia vineyards, Courtesy of Vega Sicilia

Pintia Tinto de Toro grapes hand harvested, Courtesy of Vega Sicilia

Pintia’s Tempranillo, or known locally as Tinto de Toro grapes, are grown along the banks of the Douro River in the Toro DO region, in 50-year-old vineyards that yield full-bodied structured wines. With the first wines coming on line in 2001, there has been a push to make the wines more refined and elegant, with freshness at its core. Hand-harvested, the grapes are refrigerated for 12 hours to preserve their fruit intensity, then the clusters are gone over twice to remove any defective bunches. Cold maceration for five days, then malolactic fermentation, all in wood, leads to one year aging in 70% French oak barrel and 30% American oak barrels. Vega Sicilia has labeled Pintia as “The Talent of Rebelliousness”, defined by its ground-breaking nature in the Toro region.

The 2018 Alión is very modern in its expression, fleshy, intense, and complex with a red fruit character, spice and toasty wood notes, mesmerizing in its depth of flavor.

Alión vineyards, Courtesy of Vega Sicilia

Alión Tinto Fino clusters, Courtesy of Vega Sicilia

Alión’s Tinto Fino grapes are grown just 15 kilometers from the Vega Sicilia estate vineyards, from an average of 30-year-old vines. Hand-harvested, extracted for color and structure, then fermented and aged in new French oak barrels that are made in Bordeaux, but only used once and never again by the winery, the wine ages in bottle for at least 15 months. Alión was the first winery to be created by Álvarez, and is labeled “Born to Make History”.

The 2017 Valbuena 5° is voluptuous, dense and layered with an explosive nose of dark berry, chocolate, nutmeg and white pepper, and a savory palate of plum, licorice, wild herbs, black tea and forest floor. This silky wine is a blend of 94% Tinto Fino (Tempranillo) and 6% Merlot, succulent and balanced, complex with fine-grained tannins, so expressive!

Courtesy of Vega Sicilia

Valbuena 5° is considered the purest expression of Tinto Fino (Tempranillo) within Vega Sicilia, a reflection primarily of the terroir. Fermented in stainless steel, it is aged for five years, in new and used French and American oak 225-liter barrels, plus large 20,000-liter vats, that is why it is called Valbuena 5°. This wine is Pablo’s personal favorite, referred to as “The Expression of Time”.

Third course, Filet Mignon with Pommes Darphin and Beef Jus, the perfect pairing for the star of the lineup, two different vintages of Unico, a wine of mythic proportions. The 2009 Unico is so beautiful, its complex energy coursed through the glass, taking on a life of its own. Rich and concentrated, red and dark plums, cherry and blueberry fruit, fresh tobacco, cedar and spice flow on an endless finish. The 2012 Unico, the newest release, is considered an excellent vintage, and is more defined in its youthful acidity, while promising a timeless evolution of depth, texture, and nuance over time. Voluptuous with black fruit, spice, meaty and earthy notes, its exhilarating fragrance and generous body drive home its essence.

Vega Sicilia vineyards, Courtesy of Vega Sicilia

Harvest, Courtesy of Vega Sicilia

Courtesy of Vega Sicilia

Unico cellars, Courtesy of Vega Sicilia

Forty of the 210 hectares within Vega Sicilia are dedicated to Unico, the flagship of the brand, with the Duero River influencing the soils and microclimates. Unico is a blend of 94% Tinto Fino and 6% Cabernet Sauvignon, the actual percentages vary with the vintage year, with the average age of the vines at 35 years. Hand-picked and aged for at least ten years in barrel and bottle in new and used French and American oak 225-liter barrels, in addition to those large 20,000-liter tanks, it’s this aging process that gives Unico it’s very long life and style. It’s an aristocrat among wines, a rare icon that richly deserves its accolades, a “Myth Full of Truth”.

The Cheese course with Housemade Bread and Chutney allowed the 2014 Oremus Tokaji Aszú 5 Puttonyos to shine. Aszú, or the “wine of tears”, is only produced in good vintages, when rain toward the end of the growing season allows noble rot to infect the grapes. It’s a painstaking process, one that has been followed for hundreds of years in the Hungarian tradition, with the 5 puttonyos level balancing mid-level sweetness and vibrant acidity. Puttonyos refers to how many 25-kg baskets of the individually harvested Aszú grapes are added to the base wine, which is made of a blend of four Hungarian white grape varietals, with Furmint being the most recognizable. A beautiful golden color, with ripe apricot, grapefruit and honey aromas, Oremus Aszú 5 Puttonyos is complex, rich in its sweetness but at the same time refreshing in its acidity, it’s a perfect dessert wine.

Respected and admired, Vega Sicilia’s wines are of the highest quality, a result of perfecting each step along the way. Unico is definitely a thrill, and should be on every wine lover’s once in a lifetime wine list. Pablo Álvarez continues to guide Vega Sicilia to greater heights, crafting exceptional wines that set the wine world on fire.