Epoch Estate Wines of Paso Robles, Defining Excellence in Rhone Varietal Wines
June 6, 2024
June 6, 2024
The first thing you may notice about the word “epoch”, it can be confusing when you hear it pronounced. Sounds like “epic” in American English, which works in this case, as these epic wines from an “epoch” time really define Epoch Estate Wines of Paso Robles. “Epic”, characterized as impressive, lasting and complex, describes these wines, in addition to “epoch”, defined as a period of time in history or a person’s life, marked by notable events or particular characteristics, and it’s also a geologic term. Just know that both terms, if looked up in the dictionary, would have a picture of Epoch Wines next to them.
When Liz and Bill Armstrong decided to pursue their winemaking quest, they knew two things. One, they loved Rhône varietal wines, and two, as geologists, they understood the importance of terroir in making world-class wines. So the hunt began for the perfect spot to vinify their dreams. After much research and travel, the Armstrongs settled on Paso Robles because everything they were looking for was right there, unique soils, hills, weather and diurnal temperature swings, plus the Paso vibe that percolates through the region, in the cowboy culture and entrepreneurial spirit.
In 2004, the Armstrongs purchased the Paderewski Vineyard, and as they say, they began their wine “epoch”, adding to their vineyard holdings with the Catapult Vineyard in 2008 and then the historic York Mountain Winery in 2010. Considering themselves stewards of these incredible properties, the Armstrongs set about to replant, matching clonal selections to soil types, and creating a patchwork of vineyard blocks that made the most of exposures, soils and climate. They laid a foundation for what makes Epoch wines so very distinctive and characterful today
Sixteen varieties are grown over the three different vineyards, which yields an amazing cornucopia of possibilities. All are estate grown wines from site-specific and vintage years, primarily Rhône varieties plus some Tempranillo and Zinfandel. A future eye is cast to adding a Bordeaux blend to the Epoch mix at some point.
Each of these vineyards have been transformed through careful analysis and vineyard replanting, but tell their own story through the wines. In fact, detailed interactive vineyard maps reveal the individual block stats, from clones to number of vines planted and on what rootstock. It’s this overview that keeps Epoch estate wines at the top of their game.
Epoch’s cornerstone, Paderewski Vineyard, is 95 acres of steep limestone hills set within a 570 acre rural estate with incredible views. Established by Ignacy Jan Paderewski in the early 1900’s, a fascinating character in history who was a world-renowned pianist, Polish diplomat and vintner, the property had been forgotten and left fallow until the Armstrongs took notice. After much work and investment, today’s Paderewski Vineyard is home to fourteen varieties, falling within the Willow District AVA. The list includes the Rhône, Bordeaux and Spanish varieties of Syrah, Grenache, Mourvèdre, Cabernet Sauvignon, Carignane, Graciano, Merlot, Petite Sirah, Cabernet Franc, Petite Verdot, Tempranillo, Zinfandel, Viognier and Clairette Blanc. These vineyard blocks were carefully planted to maximize the best conditions for success for each variety, and give rise to Epoch’s Block B Syrah, Sensibility Grenache, and Zinfandel, in addition to being blended in other wines.
The Catapult Vineyard sits in Paso Robles’ Templeton Gap, also belonging to the Willow Creek AVA, near some very illustrious neighbors, with 45 acres of extremely rocky shale soils where 28 acres of grapevines have to struggle to survive. Seven varieties are planted here, Syrah, Mourvèdre, Grenache, Tempranillo, Grenache Blanc, Roussanne and Viognier, and clonal selection is key, producing wines of complexity and intense flavors.
The York Mountain Vineyard was established over one hundred years ago by the York family, and was the site of the first bonded winery on the Central Coast. It’s a very different terroir from the other two vineyards, with sand and fractured sandstone soils. A moderately cool climate, with higher elevation and closer to the ocean, York Mountain gets more than twice the amount of rainfall, with foggy mornings and cool breezes all day. In fact, this vineyard is so distinct it has its own York Mountain AVA, which technically doesn’t even belong to the greater Paso Robles AVA. Seven varieties are planted here, Cabernet Sauvignon, Grenache, Mourvèdre, Roussanne, Syrah, Viognier and Zinfandel, with three vineyard specific wines bottled, the York Mountain Viognier, York Mountain Grenache, and York Mountain Syrah.
And in a nod to its place in history, the Armstrongs built their current tasting room on the York Mountain site in 2016. When the San Simeon Earthquake of 2003 severely damaged the winery, it was condemned, eventually sending the property into foreclosure. When the Armstrongs purchased it in 2010, they set about to reconstruct the original winery, using the exact same bricks and stones to renovate and recreate this piece of history, offering Epoch a meaningful spot for their tasting room.
Aside from the incredible vineyards, most importantly, the Armstrongs realized they needed to find a winemaker who not only had the technical skills to make great wine but who would also fall in love with their project. In Jordan Fiorentini, they have the perfect match, she’s producing award winning wines from these historical vineyards with an eye to the future in organic and biodynamic farming. This partnership has allowed Epoch to make their mark in a comparatively short period of time. Although Epoch Estate Wines is a relatively young winery, it has carved out its place among some of the best wines in the region, receiving high scores and included on many Top 100 Wine lists. Jordan is leading the charge, as Vice President of Winemaking & Vineyards, she is a rock star in her own right, awarded Winemaker of the Year of San Luis Obispo County in 2021.
Jordan didn’t start out with dreams of winemaking in her head, instead she set her sights on an Engineering degree at Dartmouth College. Then seeking a little fun, she traveled to Napa Valley in the fall of 1999 for a harvest experience, and fell in love with wine, switching gears to the pursuit of a Masters Degree at UC Davis in their Viticulture and Enology program. Graduating in 2003, Jordan worked at several prestigious wineries in Tuscany, Napa and Sonoma before landing at Epoch in 2010.
In March, Jordan Fiorentini came to Los Angeles, sharing Epoch’s wines and story with the LA Wine Writers over a four course luncheon at AOC Brentwood. She brought nine Epoch wines, underscoring their considerable achievement. Starting with two aperitif wines, a Rosé and White blend, we explored, tasted and compared two wines in each course. It was like a masterclass in vineyard differences, terroir, soils and climate, illustrated by side to side glasses of comparable wines.
Greeted with the 2023 Epoch Rosé, inspired by the rosés of Southern France, it’s a beautiful blend of 63% Mourvédre, 26% Grenache and 11% Syrah fruit from all three vineyards, a vibrant, aromatic wine with juicy aromas and flavors of watermelon, wild strawberry, and green notes of lime, grass, flowers and sage. The 2022 Epoch White, 56% Grenache Blanc, 39% Viognier and 5% Roussanne, reflects the complexity of the concrete egg fermentation and sur lie aging in concrete and French oak, it’s one of my favorites, with a bouquet of grapefruit and Meyer lemon citrus, white peach, floral honeysuckle, spice notes of nutmeg, clove and ginger, and a seductive salinity with hints of toast and dried hay.
The first course of Beets and Lentils, Leeks, Sumac, Labneh and Walnuts showcased the two Grenache wines. The Epoch Sensibility 2021, 79% Grenache and 21% Syrah from the Paderewski Vineyard, is bright and more feminine-style. Fermented in concrete tanks and aged in neutral wood, this is the lightest of red, more pinot-style in a way. Aromas of raspberry, orange, and strawberry rhubarb pie float on the flavor accents of cinnamon, clove, scrub and chocolate. Contrasted with the Epoch York Mountain Grenache 2021, 100% Grenache from York Mountain Vineyard, this is a more powerful wine, with a bit of tannin and spice. Aromas of pepper, raspberry, cherry, rosemary, and roasted coffee flow into a ripe red fruit palate, with a more tannic finish.
The second course, Maple Leaf Duck Breast, Apples, Treviso and Pedro Ximénez set the stage for the two GSM blends. The Epoch Veracity 2021 is an ode to the southern Rhône and its Châteauneuf-du-Pape. A blend of 44% Mourvèdre, 43% Grenache and 13% Syrah from all three vineyards, this blend is actually an alter-ego to the Rosé, channeling the Old World through the New World. Dark cherry aromas and flavors, along with forest floor, damp earth, thyme, tobacco, blood orange, dark chocolate, and pepper inhabit this mouthfilling mineral and elegant wine. The Epoch Ingenuity 2019, 71% Petite Sirah, 14% Mourvèdre, 12% Grenache and 3% Syrah from the Paderewski Vineyard, is earthy and structured, with a dark fruit, roasted herbs, and rare red meat essence, lifted by the red fruit minerality of the Grenache, and a complexity of roasted coffee, graphite, chocolate and cigar box aromas linger on the finish.
The third course, Wagyu Oxtail, Kabocha Squash, Toum, Shatta and Spiced Flatbread, allowed the two Syrah wines to demonstrate their style. The Epoch Block B 2019 is 100% Syrah from the Paderewski Vineyard, fermented in 100% new French oak puncheons and aged in mostly new mid-size barrels, a savory, earthy and spicy wine, revealing layers of dark fruit, white flowers, black olives, and roasted meats. The Epoch York Mountain Syrah 2019 is 100% Syrah from York Mountain Vineyard, fermented in a mix of concrete, stainless steel and new French oak, and aged in about 30% new French oak midsize barrels. Elegant and more feminine, coming from a cooler vineyard, its savory and bold with black olive, roasted game, pepper, eucalyptus and sagebrush aromas, adding a blackberry, chocolate and purple flower essence after the first wave.
Concluding with a Three Cheese Plate, the Epoch Tempranillo 2018, 85% Tempranillo co-fermented with Graciano, Syrah and Grenache to boost acidity from the Paderewski Vineyard, represents one of Jordan’s winemaking challenges, she’s tinkering with ways to tame the tannins. A cigar box character reveals notes of ripe red cherry, tobacco, roasted earth, and forest floor, and according to Jordan, this wine can age gracefully for the next decade.
All of these Rhône varietal wines are so expressive of place. The 100% Grenache and 100% Syrah wines reflect the vineyard differences so well, and the blends exhibit a complexity of varietals. At Epoch, Jordan can blend her two strengths and passions, the science of winemaking and the art of the blend. Jordan says, “You have to focus on the science first, then go to the art side.” Indulging her creative side, Jordan created VINPRESSION®, visual tasting notes that communicate the texture of her wines alongside their aroma and flavor profiles.
In addition to Jordan’s winemaking success at Epoch, she serves as a mentor to aspiring winemakers, collaborates with other wine producers, and supports the wine industry overall, an inspiration to other women who look to participate at the highest levels of winemaking. Epoch Estate Wines are certainly epic in quality and flavor, something that Liz and Bill Armstrong have achieved in just over a decade, bottling many happy times for legions of fans of this Paso Robles favorite.
Epoch Estate Wines, https://epochwines.com/
Epoch Estate Wines, https://epochwines.com/