In the Loire Valley, known as the Garden of France, a mosaic of magical wines rooted in its mythic past evoke today’s charming wine scene.  Regal castles and châteaux guide visitors on a wine journey that offers a taste of royalty along the banks of France's longest river.  Following the flow of the Loire River from its path only through the Loire Valley, it threads its way from the flinty soils at its inland heart, revealing a tapestry of wine styles, weaving through the tufa soils and ending on the salty shores of the Atlantic.  Incredibly diverse in its offerings, Loire Valley wines are a pure reflection of this undulating terroir.  Fresh and fruity, with moderate alcohol, refreshing acidity, and minerality, they make perfect food pairings, and are excellent values.

Courtesy of Loire Valley Wines

Château de Saumur and vineyards, Credit Pedro Szekely

The statistics are stunning.  Divided by terroir into five sub-regions, the Loire Valley is France’s third largest winemaking region.  Here, 3,600 wineries produce a diverse number of wines, from Sauvignon Blanc, Pinot Noir, Chenin Blanc, Gamay, Cabernet Franc, Melon de Bourgogne, and a small amount of Malbec, which is known locally as Côt.  Sparkling, still whites and reds, rosé, and ethereal sweet wines are found in 51 appellation (AOC) and 6 geographical (PGI) designations.  The Loire Valley is the largest white wine producer in France, 45% are whites, with sparkling and rosé coming in second.  Chenin Blanc, the gem and workhorse of the region, is expressive in all styles, from sparkling to sweet. The US is the Loire’s #1 export market, their combination of fresh, fruity and friendly wines are so appealing.

Château d'Amboise, Loire Valley, UNESCO World Heritage Site, Credit Bernard Jaubert

Last year marked the 20th anniversary of the Loire Valley’s designation as a UNESCO World Heritage Site.  Over 300 castles and châteaux line the banks of the Loire River, making the Loire Valley rich in history and culture.  If you’ve ever wondered what the difference is between a castle and a château, castles were for defensive purposes, and châteaux were residences.  Once the playground for French aristocracy, today these historical treasures serve as a tourism magnet and center of commerce, propelling the Loire Valley onto everyone’s must visit list.

Although COVID-19 interfered with 2020’s celebration of the Loire Valley, Loire Valley Wines gave me a virtual tour of the region and its wines last Fall.  An introduction was presented through a Zoom seminar, followed by a wine tasting with Matthew Kaner of Bar Covell.  Through the lens of history and châteaux, six wines were poured, as a teaser of the essence of the Loire.  And although not every sub-region was represented, it certainly wet my palate for more.  So, here is a brief exploration of what awaits on a wine pilgrimage through the Loire Valley, following the Loire River on its passage from Orléans, south of Paris, until it pours its languid waters into the Atlantic Ocean at Nantes.

Pouilly-sur-Loire, Courtesy of Loire Valley Wines

The Sur Loire or Central Vineyards marks the inland beginning of a 174 mile journey along the Loire River.  Although the Loire originates in the mountains of southeast France, it’s when France’s longest river meets the geographical heart of the country and makes a western turn toward the Atlantic Ocean, this is where the Loire Valley finds its beginnings.  Cradle to the world’s benchmark for Sauvignon Blanc in the forms of Sancerre and Pouilly-Fumé, this region is renowned for its three types of soils, and the distinctive flinty character that they exhibit.

Château de Tracy and vineyards, Credit Daniel Villafruela

Château de Tracy is a 14th century castle, still owned by the same family that founded it over 600 years ago.  They produce some of the finest Pouilly-Fumé wines, named so for the flinty soils that give a gunpowder aroma to the wines.  Château de Tracy produces four wines, all Sauvignon Blanc.  The Château de Tracy Pouilly-Fume 2018 (SRP $33) is their traditional cuvée, intensely aromatic, there is complexity in the palate.  Exotic fruit, citrus and herbal notes unfurl into a nuanced, yet long and structured finish.

Château de Sancerre, Credit Asbjørn Floden

Château de Sancerre stands guard over 9,000 acres of vineyards, whose limestone soils once were at the bottom of the ocean.  This feudal castle turned château oversaw the protection of the local economy.  The Sauvignon Blancs produced here are acclaimed worldwide because of their complex profile, high acid with herbal notes, green apple and citrus fruit, and smoky mineral accents.  The Château de Sancerre 2018 (SRP $30) is relatively ripe, with citrus and white flowers, mineral with balanced acidity, and textural nuances from lees aging.  One of the world’s most perfect pairings is Sancerre with the Chavignol goat cheese that is made in the village below the Château.

Touraine, Courtesy of Loire Valley Wine Tour

Touraine is home to many of the châteaux that line the banks of the Loire.  Here, the most diverse wine offerings are found.  Vouvray in all styles from Chenin Blanc and Cabernet Franc in the form of Chinon and Bourgueil, as well as Sauvignon Blanc, Gamay and a small amount of Malbec (Côt) are found here.  Lively acidity marks these wines.

Château de Chenonceau, Credit Jim Trodel

Château de Chenonceau is one of the most picturesque and toured châteaux along the Loire.  Spanning the smaller, adjacent Cher river, the "Ladies Castle" is nicknamed so for its fascinating history of women shaping its construction and destiny.  Rich in history, starting as a gift from King Henri II to his mistress in the 1500’s, in more recent times, it served as a military hospital during World War 2.  Domaine des Mazelles, Touraine-Chenonceaux 2018 (SRP $17), is 100% Sauvignon Blanc.  Aromatic and generous, ripe aromas of citrus, pear, apricot and tropical fruits waft above toasted brioche bread notes.  A powerful and complex wine, it has a long and persistent finish.  It is as captivating as the residence!

Fortress of Chinon, Credit Olive Titus

The Fortress of Chinon has seen countless kings and princes walk its medieval halls.  It stands witness to a legendary figure in French history, Joan of Arc.  It is here that her courage turned the tide of the Hundred Years’ War, and helped kick the British out of France.  Chinon is best known for its Cabernet Franc wines, which flourish in the sandy soils on elevated plateaus and hillsides.  Wines here are 90% red, 5% rosé, and 5% white.  The Marc Brediff Chinon 2018 (SRP $23) is so enticing, intensely aromatic with smoky fruit (black cherry and strawberry), spice, and a hint of forest floor.  It’s delicate in structure, elegant with a fresh profile, lower alcohol and chalky tannins, it finishes full in the mouth.

Saumur, Courtesy of Loire Valley Wines

Saumur is honeycombed with 1,000 miles of underground limestone tunnels, known as the troglodyte caves.  These caves resulted from the local tufa stone, a pale limestone, being excavated to build Châteaux, churches, and other housing in the Loire.  In addition to being a great place to age their signature “fines bulles” (sparkling wines), they also served as damp places to grow mushrooms.  Renowned for their racy sparkling wines, in addition to Cabernet Franc and Chenin Blanc, still white and red wines are produced from seven AOCs.

Château de Saumur, Credit Daniel Jolivet

Château de Saumur traded hands between the French and the British, serving as a prison and a military storage facility.  Today, it is a museum, displaying tapestries, ceramics, and equestrian accessories.  Domaine des Coutures “L’Epanouie” Saumur-Champigny 2018 (SRP $18) is generous and aromatic, with a floral note, dark fruit, silky yet structured, refined and polished with velvety tannins and a long finish.

City of Angers in Anjou

Anjou is the cradle for the best expressions of Chenin Blanc, from dry to the wonderful sweet ones as well.  Cabernet Franc is the red of choice, and Rosé makes up half the production.  I didn’t get to sample any of these wines, but from previous experiences, it is something not to be missed.

Nantes, Courtesy of Wikipedia

The journey ends at the shores of Brittany, where the Loire spills its waters into the Atlantic Ocean.  Since it’s all about location, Nantes is known worldwide for their seafood-friendly Muscadet wines.  Made from the Melon de Bourgogne grape, this crisp wine, with a briny citrus and mineral profile, is a perfect accompaniment to oysters and shellfish.  Nantes exports many of their best wines to the world, and they are great value.

Castle of the Dukes of Brittany, Credit Thierry Llansades

The Castle of the Dukes of Brittany in Nantes had been the scene of a tug of war between the French and British, with the locals favoring the Brits.  However, after resolving this with the area being annexed to France, Nantes became a center of commerce with the Dutch in the 17th century.  They enlisted the locals to produce distilled spirits in the form of brandy from the local Folle Blanche grape, so that it could survive the boat trip back to the Netherlands.  Domaine Bedouet, Clos des Grands Primos Sur Lie, Muscadet Sévre et Maine 2019 (SRP $14) is aromatic, with grapefruit, melon, and briny apple fruit, wet stone, and a round texture from the lees aging.

Overall, the 2018-2020 vintages were very warm years, and that was reflected in the richer body and more generous palate of the wines I tasted.  The higher alcohol and riper profile was balanced by underlying acidity.  At the start of 2021, the 25% tariff situation is still in play, affecting all still wines and Cognac, adding a significant price hike to the consumer.  Hopefully, this dispute between the US and France over aerospace subsidies can be resolved, and make these wonderful wines an even better value, as they are delicious by the glass and alongside food.

Looking to the future, the Loire Valley is a tourist’s dream, scenic and steeped in history, easy to traverse (ride a bike!), and a delightful food and wine adventure.  Crystalline Sauvignon Blancs, savory Cabernet Francs, and succulent Chenin Blancs populate the wine landscape, bringing their own special expression of each bend of the Loire River.  Put the Loire Valley on your bucket list, and make the trip as soon as it is possible, it will feed your imagination and sate your soul!