For a small country, Portugal offers a huge winescape, where a remarkable number of indigenous winegrapes flourish in a number of different regions. Here, 31 Protected Denominations of Origin (DOP) appellations and 14 Geographical Indications (IG) define the cornucopia of what Portugal has to offer. Alentejo is the largest wine region, covering about one-third of the southern half of the country. Eclectic and exciting, the wines are an adventure, fascinating in their essence and structure, seamless in their body and finish. You’ll find yourself nosing the wine, wondering at the subtle nuances, and after a sip, delighting at the mouth-filling finish. There’s a lot to love about these wines; exceptional reds and whites, in addition to sparkling and rosé, offer quality and value.
Sunny and hot in the flat areas, cooler in the mountains close to Spain, Alentejo’s potential for making quality wine has barely been tapped, with only 5% of the land planted to vines. There is a lot of other agriculture, the most important are the cork forests, where almost half of the world’s cork originates from. Almost forty years ago, renowned Portuguese winemaker-consultant João Portugal Ramos recognized Alentejo’s advantages, its diverse landscape yielding flexible results, from elegant white wines in the north to ripe easy-drinking reds in the south. Attracting winemakers from all over the world, Alentejo offers strikingly good wines in all categories, producing 78% red, 20% white, and 1.5% rosé wines from 25 red and 26 white approved wine grape varietals, for great value. There seems to be a trinity of grape varietals that make up the majority of most wines: Alicante Bouschet, Trincadeira, and Aragonez (Tempranillo) for reds; Arinto, Antão Vaz, and Roupeiro for whites, although blends are often fleshed out with international varieties as well.
Sometimes referred to as “The New Tuscany”, Alentejo is number one in wine sales in Portugal, and exports 20% to the rest of the world. Amazingly, the Portuguese are voracious wine drinkers, consuming over 54 liters per person, the largest per capita wine drinkers in the world! Since 2014, the buzz surrounding Alentejo has increased exponentially, recognized by many major publications as one of the best wine destinations in the world, its wine cache paying off in a big way for locals.
Master Sommelier Evan Goldstein conducted a master class on Appellation Alentejo last year in Los Angeles, for the Wines of Alentejo USA. Twelve wines from the eight sub-regions were poured, one sparkling, two whites, and nine reds. Goldstein is a passionate ambassador for the Alentejo region, and certainly the wines were astonishing in their quality and value. Here are my standouts from the tasting:
Herdade do Rocim, Espumante Rosé 2014
100% Touriga Nacional, savory and delicious, made in the traditional method, fine persistent bubbles crown yeasty and toasty aromas, a craveable and unique sparkler!
100% Touriga Nacional, savory and delicious, made in the traditional method, fine persistent bubbles crown yeasty and toasty aromas, a craveable and unique sparkler!
Rui Reguinga Terrenus Reserva Branco 2015
Made from a field blend of many indigenous white grape varietals from century old vines, this aromatic, textured wine showcases Meyer lemon and stone fruit, with vibrant acidity and higher alcohol, its long finish reflects aging in new French oak barrels.
Made from a field blend of many indigenous white grape varietals from century old vines, this aromatic, textured wine showcases Meyer lemon and stone fruit, with vibrant acidity and higher alcohol, its long finish reflects aging in new French oak barrels.
Mouchão Tinto 2011
A blend of 70% Alicante Bouschet and Trincadeira, this wine is made with a nod to the past, foot-trodden in stone lagares where it is allowed to ferment for a week, then run off into large wooden vats where it stays for 2-3 years, and rested in bottle for an additional 2-3 years before release. Intense and exuberant, jammy black fruit, ripe olive, herbal and spice aromas and flavors swirl within a savory structure that is somehow fresh on the palate, well-balanced and delicious.
A blend of 70% Alicante Bouschet and Trincadeira, this wine is made with a nod to the past, foot-trodden in stone lagares where it is allowed to ferment for a week, then run off into large wooden vats where it stays for 2-3 years, and rested in bottle for an additional 2-3 years before release. Intense and exuberant, jammy black fruit, ripe olive, herbal and spice aromas and flavors swirl within a savory structure that is somehow fresh on the palate, well-balanced and delicious.
Dona Maria Grande Reserva Tinto 2012
A blend of 50% Alicante Bouschet, Petit Verdot, Syrah, and Touriga Nacional, this wine is also foot-trodden and fermented in stone lagares, then aged in new French oak barrels for a year. Intense and round, rich and ripe fruit, with mint and spice accents, floats on silky tannins and ends in a juicy persistent finish, very nice!
A blend of 50% Alicante Bouschet, Petit Verdot, Syrah, and Touriga Nacional, this wine is also foot-trodden and fermented in stone lagares, then aged in new French oak barrels for a year. Intense and round, rich and ripe fruit, with mint and spice accents, floats on silky tannins and ends in a juicy persistent finish, very nice!
Cooperativa Granja Amaraleja Moreto Pé-Franco Tinto 2015
Made from 100% Moreto from ungrafted vines, this wine is produced in one of the hottest areas of Portugal, which suits Moreto just fine. Fermented in amphora and aged in oak barrels, this fascinating wine is smooth, with a heft to the palate and long finish, very different.
Made from 100% Moreto from ungrafted vines, this wine is produced in one of the hottest areas of Portugal, which suits Moreto just fine. Fermented in amphora and aged in oak barrels, this fascinating wine is smooth, with a heft to the palate and long finish, very different.
Herdade da Malhadinha Nova Malhadinha Tinto 2015
A blend of 50% Alicante Bouschet, 25% Syrah, 20% Tinta Miúda, and 15% Touriga Nacional, this complex wine has aromas of high-toned red and black fruit, spice, and oak notes. Round and full-bodied, with lively acidity, silky tannins and long finish, my very favorite of the tasting!
A blend of 50% Alicante Bouschet, 25% Syrah, 20% Tinta Miúda, and 15% Touriga Nacional, this complex wine has aromas of high-toned red and black fruit, spice, and oak notes. Round and full-bodied, with lively acidity, silky tannins and long finish, my very favorite of the tasting!
Cortes de Cima Tinto 2013
A blend of 35% Aragonez, 35% Syrah, 20% Touriga Nacional, and 10% Petit Verdot, this award-winning, intense wine has spicy aromatics and deep fruit, elegant and seamless, flavorful and fabulous!
A blend of 35% Aragonez, 35% Syrah, 20% Touriga Nacional, and 10% Petit Verdot, this award-winning, intense wine has spicy aromatics and deep fruit, elegant and seamless, flavorful and fabulous!
Momentum is gaining steam for the wines of Alentejo, as quality rises, their value has increased, with almost half of all wines rated highly by many wine critics. What was once “old school” is now considered the “new” hot region, with excellent wines at great prices. Portuguese wines from Alentejo spring from tradition, yet embrace modern influences, making them special wines to drink and share.