​While Napa Valley has become Ground Zero for the most lush and intense versions of Cabernet Sauvignon in the US, it is also home to the most expressive Riesling, made by brothers and co-owners Stuart and Charles Smith of Smith-Madrone Vineyards & Winery.  Their fifty year journey is a testament to grit and soil, vision and sweat, and determination to continue translating their sense of place to a tangible treat in a glass.

Smith-Madrone Vineyard, Photo by Matthew Denny

​Smith-Madrone was founded in 1971 on Spring Mountain outside of St. Helena by then aspiring winemaker Stu Smith.  In what was a landscape dominated by cattle, Stu saw something in this rural mountain property, a promise of greatness if enough hard work was thrown at it.  Joined by his brother Charles a couple of years later, they worked to transform this forest and former 1880’s vineyard, which had been decimated by phylloxera, into today’s family-run operation, all estate-grown wines that are widely acclaimed for their authenticity and elegance.

Sam, Stu, and Charlie Smith, Photo by Meg Smith

Madrone trees, Photo by Kelly Puleio

The name Smith-Madrone obviously refers to the Smiths, but also to the beautiful Madrone evergreen trees that dot the property.  A limited partnership, Stu is co-owner and General Partner, while brother Charlie, also co-owner, is the Winemaker, and Stu’s son, Sam, is the Assistant Winemaker, carrying on a tradition of crafting distinctive mountain wine.  They specialize in Chardonnay, Cabernet Sauvignon, and their world-class Riesling, but also grow Merlot and Cabernet Franc.

Smith-Madrone vineyards, Photo by Matthew Denny

Thirty-eight acres of the 200-acre property are planted to vineyards, allowing Stu to farm efficiently and sustainably.  The vineyards were planted intentionally with different exposures for the specific varietals: Riesling gets eastern exposure, Chardonnay on the cooler north-facing slopes, and Cabernet Sauvignon planted for southern and western exposure.  Refining their vision, Smith-Madrone has adopted dry farming, and is focused on the soil.  The Smiths work on soil erosion, keeping a permanent cover crop all year.

Stu Smith, Photo by Thomas Sanders

Smith-Madrone has received many accolades over the years, starting with their first vintage of 1977 Riesling, landing them on the wine producing map, and since, their Riesling has consistently been named as one of the best Rieslings in the world.  Over the years, Stu Smith has been recognized as a pioneer and champion of hillside grapegrowing, and named as one of Wine’s Most Inspiring People in 2018 by Wine Industry Advisor.  When I visited Napa Valley in 2018, all the buzz was about Smith-Madrone’s Riesling, a must taste in the land of big red wine.

Glass Fire, Photo by Stu Smith

Glass Fire, Photo by Stu Smith

But after fifty years of winemaking excellence, Smith-Madrone faces a devastating challenge with the effects of climate change.  Smith reflected, “We’ve experienced catastrophic fires over the past 6 years, starting with Lake County in 2015, and then every year from 2017 through 2020”.  Last year’s Glass Fire put Smith-Madrone directly in the crosshairs, in what was one of the warmest and driest years on record.  While the fire started across the valley from Smith-Madrone, it rapidly exploded and tore across the valley floor through its dry creek beds, ending up at Spring Mountain on the first day.  And although Stu had been preparing for a possible fire threat that day, he thought all was well for the evening, and went home.  But the fire raced up Spring Mountain that evening, and he received a call that his property was on fire.  Charlie, Stu and Sam returned immediately, to fight the fire on the frontlines in a hair-raising tale that lasted for nine days.  Holed up in a life-threatening battle with a savage fire that threatened them from several directions, Smith-Madrone was lucky, beating it back to their property line.  They didn’t lose any structures, although there was damage to gates and posts, but the trees and forest were weakened and many of them died, creating a bigger fire threat for the future.  Dozens of wineries were damaged or destroyed over the 23 days that the Glass Fire raged, changing lives and wine in Napa Valley.  For Smith-Madrone, there may be no 2020 vintage due to smoke taint, even though everything was harvested.

Sam, Stu, and Charlie with the fruits of their labor, literally! Photo by Mike Dunne

Surviving the 2020 Glass Fire and Covid pandemic, 2021 is shaping up to be an even bigger threat.  With a historic drought making California as dry in May as it usually is in August and September, Stu is deathly afraid of another wildfire.  Insurance companies are pulling out of covering wineries because of the extreme risk, and Stu has had to pay 4-1/2 times what he normally pays, expecting to have to operate without insurance during this year.  But beyond the financial, there is also the emotional toll of pouring your heart and soul into making beautiful wine from the land that you love, but having that promise snatched away right before the dream can be realized for that vintage year.  California vintners need help to weather the storm heading their way from private and government resources, to manage the forests and change the human-forest interface amid the global warming that is changing our way of life.

Stu Smith, Photo by Kelly Puleio

Interviewed for the Food & Wine documentery “Embers & Vines”, Stu was philosophical about wildfires, “Being a farmer, you have to be an eternal optimist but at the same time you have to be an eternal pessimist.  So you have those two emotions that are driving you, and are in conflict with you, that you have to live with.”

I had the privilege and pleasure of a Smith-Madrone Zoom tasting with Stu Smith in May, and sampled three of his fabulous wines, the Chardonnay, Riesling, and Cabernet Sauvignon.  In the cooler, higher elevation vineyards of Spring Mountain, Smith has found a place to practice his Euro-centric vision of winemaking, which encompasses balance, complexity, elegance and most importantly, restraint.

The 2017 Smith-Madrone Chardonnay ($40) is rich and round, but not in a tropical fruit, oaky fashion.  There is a lot of structure here, with perfect acidity, and well-integrated oak that complements the wine, not dominates it.  Smith attributes it to the type of oak used, renowned French oak from the forests of Troncais, Allier, and Nevers, a tight-grained wood that doesn’t express the new oak as much, even though the Chardonnay is barrel-fermented and oak-aged for 18 months in barrel.  Lees stirring for 4-5 months gives it texture.  Aromas and flavors of citrus, stone fruit, ripe apple, pear and crème brulée emanate from its golden robe of color, with an opulent and creamy body, that is refreshed by an interlaced acidity, and accented by an elegant oak frame and mineral notes.  Aromatic and expressive, with a long finish, this is a delight to drink and fantastic with food.  It’s a reminder of what California Chardonnay can be, elegant and complex.

The 2016 Smith-Madrone Cabernet Sauvignon ($58) is a hedonistic wine, 90% Cabernet Sauvignon, 6% Cabernet Franc, and 4% Merlot, from a spectacular vintage.  Smith believes this is “what Cabernet Sauvignon should be”, a layered, complex wine that expresses all the nuances of the varietal.  In addition to the red and black fruit (think cassis), baking spices, leather, eucalyptus, tobacco, and cigar box, there are the hints of green olive and bell pepper.  Balanced and generous, it’s a Goldilocks moment, not too firm, not too soft, just right in its structure, with intriguing aromas and full flavor.  Delicious to drink now, or if you’re patient, will be even more incredible with some age.

The 2017 Smith-Madrone Riesling ($34) is a labor of love for the Smith brothers.  Stu and Charlie love Riesling, and do so well with it because they really care about the varietal.  This is the wine the gets all the buzz, zesty and lively with a pure essence of the varietal, intense aromas of honeysuckle, grapefruit, lime zest, candied lemon, and wet stone, and a whiff of petrol.  Integrated acidity, silky texture, and depth of flavor caresses the palate, with apple and pear flavors, mineral and citrus notes and a long finish, crisp and clean.  This is the Riesling that won the Gault-Millaut 1979 competition (obviously different vintage), and since has captured the world’s attention with its beauty.  Smith says it’s often hard to sell, because people don’t know how good Riesling can be, becoming more intoxicatingly beautiful with age.  Enchanting to drink and a stunner with food.

Smith-Madrone wines are currently available for purchase through their website, or at the winery tasting room when it reopens again by appointment only.  If you sign up for the mailing list, there will be special releases in celebration of their 50th anniversary, such as verticals of Riesling, older vintages of Cabernet Sauvignon, and their legendary Cook’s Flat Reserve (the very best of a superior vintage), plus the Terrific Threesome that I experienced.

​Smith-Madrone has defined mountain winemaking in Napa Valley for half a century, producing distinctive wines that show finesse and precision, but mostly reflect the vineyard and the myriad of conditions that year.  The wines have personality and presence, and truly are living works of art, thanks to the Smith brothers’ artisan touch.  And for the price point, these phenomenal wines are in a category all their own, highly recommended!