Moraga Bel Air Vineyards and Winery, Los Angeles’ Hidden Wine Gem
​January 29, 2024

Nestled in the tony residential neighborhood of Bel Air, on Los Angeles’ West Side, is a hidden winery gem, with a storied history and famous owner.  Moraga Bel Air produces refined wines from Bordeaux red and white varietals, acclaimed in some circles with high ratings but relatively unknown to many.  But today, the veil is being pulled back, to introduce more wine lovers to the wines and this special and most unexpected place, a bucolic vineyard in the shadow of the Getty Museum, for a taste of Bordeaux in Bel Air.

Winemaking in Los Angeles is not something new, in fact, over 200 years ago, Los Angeles County was ground zero for wine production in California, before Napa and Sonoma.  In the 1800s, thousands of vineyard acres supplied the fruit for hundreds of wineries, quenching the state’s thirst for wine.  But, after World War II, the wine industry fell victim to urban sprawl, as real estate became more profitable than wine.  Today, there are only a mere 206 acres, planted across six AVAs, three coastal areas in the Santa Monica Mountains and three high-elevation desert areas including the Antelope Valley, and some vineyards in the eastern suburbs of Los Angeles.

Moraga Bel Air Vineyard & Winery, Courtesy of Moraga Bel Air

Although it defies conventional winemaking wisdom, to make fine wine in hot and arid Los Angeles, Moraga’s canyon location in the Santa Monica Mountains yields an unique combination of fine winemaking factors: steep rocky vineyards at 800 feet above sea level, Pacific ocean breezes, ancient marine soils, and a decent amount of rain.  What is also a brain teaser is that some of the most expensive real estate in the world is being used to grow grapes.  Yet, this is a win-win situation, since some of the surrounding land is not stable enough for mansions, so wine grapes have found the perfect home here.

Moraga Bel Air is a unique place, born of the glittering dreams of Hollywood.  Originally, the property was purchased by Hollywood director Victor Fleming, whose most famous works include the classic “Gone With The Wind” and “The Wizard of Oz”.  He built a horse ranch and during the 1930s and 1940s, used it as a retreat to entertain his friends.  In 1959, Tom Jones, CEO of Northrop Corporation, and his wife Ruth bought the estate, and after living there for 20 years, decided to plant grapevines.  In 1980, Chardonnay and Sauvignon Blanc were planted but they only survived for three years, falling victim to Pierce’s disease.  The Joneses consulted viticultural experts and replanted with Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot and Cabernet Franc, followed by Sauvignon Blanc and Petit Verdot at a later date.  Making wine for friends and family initially, the Joneses decided to jump all in, hiring esteemed winemakers such as Bruno d’Alfonso and Tony Soter, and viticultural consultants to produce commercial wine, with the first vintage in 1989.  At that time, grapes were shipped up to Santa Barbara County and Napa Valley for the winemaking magic.  But in 2005, a state-of-the-art winery was built, and along with the barrel-aging cave completed the year before, Moraga Bel Air became an Estate Wine.  It also became one of the first commercial wineries to be bonded in the city of Los Angeles since Prohibition ended in 1933.

Rupert Murdoch, Courtesy of Moraga Bel Air

​Ten years ago, Jones sold Moraga Bel Air to Rupert Murdoch, who committed to continuing the legacy of producing top quality wines, actually a part of the deal.  According to the website, Mr. Murdoch has stated, “Whether we built it or simply come to possess it, the unique things and places in our control will eventually find their way to someone else. It means one of our most important responsibilities is to be good stewards of those things that deserve to be preserved. The moment I saw Moraga Bel Air I knew it must be preserved and it’s my great pleasure to do so.”  Going forward, Murdoch’s son, Lachlan, has agreed to continue to preserve the rich legacy of this estate vineyard and winery.

As the gates open to this earthly Shangri-la, a winelovers’ paradise is revealed.  Over sixteen acres, dotted with seven vineyard plots planted to 7-1/4 of those acres, have vines running up steep slopes and across rolling flatland, with so many aspects for soil diversity and sunlight, that give rise to Cabernet Franc, Merlot, Cabernet Sauvignon, Petit Verdot and Sauvignon Blanc grapes.  Forty percent of the plantings are Sauvignon Blanc, the other 60% are made up of four of the five Bordeaux varietals, as a way to hedge bets against extreme weather.  The Rupert Murdoch residence is tucked into the lower corner of the property, shielded from view.  The modern winery and rustic tasting room/office is at the epicenter, accompanied by the clucks of a stone chicken coop nearby.  The barrel aging cave is carved out of the steep slope, topped with a crown of vines, and where decades of Moraga wines are stored.  It's so very serene here, like stepping back in time, you would not even know you are in the metropolis of Los Angeles.  This secluded ecosystem coaxes maximum expression from the grapes, surrounded by native vegetation and cover crops between the rows to prevent erosion and improve soil health, all part of a sustainable plan, including seasonal sheep to add to the mix.  A crew of eight people attend to the vineyard year-round, doing the hand work of everything from pruning to picking.

Paul Warson, winemaker for Moraga Bel Air

Paul Warson, winemaker for Moraga Bel Air, explains the different vineyard plots

Estate Manager Philip Cavanaugh expertly pours Moraga Bel Air's carefully decanted wine

A few months ago, I had the opportunity, along with a small group of wine writers, to tour the property and taste the wines with Paul Warson, the Winemaker and General Manager since 2021, along with Estate Manager Philip Cavanaugh.  Warson’s enthusiasm for all that Moraga offers was evident.  He has channeled his extensive winemaking experience in Napa and Santa Ynez Valleys into crafting distinctive wines that reflect the vineyards’ sense of place.  For him, there is a uniquely identifying Moraga signature to the wines, despite the vintage years, of rich tannins, supple texture, pure Cabernet fruit, currant and tobacco.  Taking over the reins from Scott Rich, the previous winemaker for over 20 years, he looks to continue what he calls the “house style”, that signature that is the common thread among the vintages.  Although Warson has added a few tweaks of his own, such as starting fermentation with native yeast and then adding the commercial yeast later, he’s looking to increase complexity in the finished wine.

Although Moraga Bel Air produces only two wines, the different vintages offer snapshots in time.  We tasted through different years of both the Moraga White and Moraga Red, and they reflect what was going on, such as drought or cool weather, and the passage of time.  The 2023 vintage of both should be interesting, as harvest was later than usual, in fact a month later, due to early spring rains and cooler weather. 

The Moraga White is 100% estate Sauvignon Blanc, picked at the moment when the classic grapefruit zest flavors transition to peach, nectarine and tropical fruit.  Eighty percent of the juice is fermented in stainless steel barrels, the other 20% in new French oak.  The steel barrels are designed to maximize contact with the lees, and as fermentation continues, these barrels are topped up with the oaked wine.  This process ensures that the beautiful fruit and refreshing acidity are preserved, albeit with a kiss of oak.  We tried two vintages, the 2019 is fresh with vibrant acidity that swirls around a mineral spine, intensely aromatic with white peach and honeysuckle notes, and flavors of stone fruit and nectarine.  The 2013 is stunning, so complex in its floral, fruit and mineral profile.  Aromas of honeysuckle, tangerine, chamomile and wet stone fill the senses, while ripe tropical fruit notes infuse the palate, mouthfilling and textural.  Both vintages have a long, persistent finish.  At ten years old, the 2013 demonstrated the aging potential of Moraga’s Sauvignon Blanc.

The Moraga Red is their signature wine, a blend of Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot, Petit Verdot and Cabernet Franc, the percentage changing every vintage.  Seeking to make an elegant, complex blend, grapes are combined from the many different exposures in the vineyard.  The wine is vinified in stainless steel vats, then fermented in barrel.  Then the wine is aged in 100% new French oak barrels for almost two years before bottling.  Three different years were tasted, with the 2017 being the youngest wine and most recent release.  Aromas of black cherry, roasted coffee and a hint of caramel float on the nose, with flavors of blackberry jam, truffle and vanilla propelled by the fresh acidity and polished tannins.  The 2007 is the sweet spot for Moraga Red, perfect in its full-bodied glory.  Aromas of perfumed dark fruit, tobacco and that familiar mineral thread are carried through this rich and plush red wine.  Juicy flavors of plum, blackberry and cassis are framed with velvety tannins, leading to a long and persistent finish.  The 2002 vintage showed its age, evolving from fresh berry to dried fruit flavors, showing more cedar, tobacco, leather and spice.  Overall, it was very interesting to see the progression of the wines over time, with obvious differences in vintage conditions, and so many other factors.

Moraga Bel Air is a small production, 300 cases of Moraga White and 400-500 cases of Moraga Red.  And as such, these are expensive wines, the price tag reflecting its rare and luxury brand, only sold direct to consumers and restaurants.  The White sells for $92, and the Red is priced at $140.  They do have a wine club, the Cielo Club, that offers several perks and a 15% discount on all wines.  Moraga has launched a less-expensive second label, called the Artist’s Workshop, that offers $75 non-vintage red wines, made from grapes that didn’t make the cut for the Moraga Red.  Geared to attract younger buyers, the labels are designed by up and coming local artists, with a percentage of the proceeds going to a charity of the artists’ choice.  The first release is called “Matador”, after Rupert Murdoch’s Montana ranch.

Paul Warson, winemaker for Moraga Bel Air

Finessing Moraga’s current wines, the Moraga Red and Moraga White, Warson wants to get the word out about this secret place.  “We make very good wine and we want to be recognized for it”, Warson states, acknowledging that all things are on the table going forward, with plans for planting Malbec at some point in the future.  With an eye to sharing wine and good times, the gates to this vineyard paradise are slowly opening.  Yet, to visit Moraga Bel Air and experience their estate wines is not as easy as other wineries.  In the past, the vineyards and winery were rarified air, only available to those in the know and with connections.  But today, visitors are encouraged, by appointment or special events, with the goal to make Moraga Bel Air more accessible and appreciated. 

​For the ultimate LA wine experience, and the chance to drink in their wine oasis, Moraga Bel Air is available for onsite tastings, by appointment only, for groups up to 12 people, at $150 per person.  You can book a tasting and tour by reaching out to Moraga on their website.

https://www.moragabelair.com/