On Earth Day, we take stock of what we can do as human beings to protect the planet and create a healthy habitat for all forms of life. BARRA of Mendocino has been focused on that since its inception in 1955, when pioneering wine grower Charlie Barra began his mission of growing premium wine grapes by sustainable and organic principles, before it was even trendy or certifications were available. Today, BARRA not only grows the grapes but produces high quality wines at an affordable price, ahead of their time by aligning their wine business with caring for Mother Earth.
Today’s BARRA is the culmination of a vision and 66 years of experience, which started with Charlie Barra. According to his widow, Martha Barra, who is now running the winery with her two children, Charlie was a “big idea guy”. Born of Italian immigrants, Charlie had plenty of experience with vineyards, both sides of the family had worked in the vineyards of Piemonte, Italy. Growing up, he was surrounded by many Italian families whose expertise in winemaking make up a who’s who of California wineries; Fetzer, Parducci, Testa and Graciano to name a few. Charlie bought Redwood Valley Vineyards, located at the headwaters of the Russian River, in 1955. That initial purchase of 175 acres of vineyards grew to 256 acres, and other vineyards were added for a total of 350 today.
Throughout the years, Charlie was an innovator and pioneer in Mendocino County, becoming an advocate for North Coast grape growers. He championed organically grown wine grapes from the beginning, and received California’s highest honor, the CCOF certification, over 20 years ago. Charlie’s favorite saying was, “I’ve really been farming organically for 55 years, I just didn’t know it the first 30!” After over 40 years of organic farming, BARRA of Mendocino wines were born in 1997, thanks to his wife Martha. In fact, Martha is credited with growing the brand, her keen business sense and hard work propelling BARRA into the international spotlight, with their focus on affordable, organically farmed, and family owned wines.
The stats for Mendocino County are amazing, 25% of the grapes grown today are certified organic, and 1/3 of the total amount of organically grown grapes in California are grown here. Within the Mendocino branch of the larger North Coast AVA, there are 12 smaller AVAs, 570 vineyards and 108 wineries. Mendocino County is blessed with a cooler climate, and between the diurnal temperature swings and varied soils, winegrowers can grow many different varietals. The long hang time gives the wines a fruit-forward character, with deep rich flavors, balance and mouthfeel.
BARRA of Mendocino grows nine varietals, from the white grapes of Pinot Blanc, Muscat Canelli and Chardonnay to the red grape stars of Pinot Noir, Sangiovese, Zinfandel, Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot and Petite Sirah. Three vineyards provide the 100% estate fruit for their wines, Redwood Valley, Bella Colina, and Tasting Room vineyards. Farming is the key here, going way beyond sustainable. Cover crops, no conventional chemicals or fertilizers, beneficial insects, drip irrigation from man-made rainwater fed ponds, abundant wildlife in the vineyards that provide biodiversity. and hand harvested fruit are just some of the practices that elevate BARRA. Their finished wines have minimal sulfites, are vegan-friendly and GMO-free.
BARRA produces 20,000 cases of wine under two labels, Girasole Vineyards and BARRA of Mendocino, and also sells bulk wine to other producers. Nine Girasole Vineyards wines, outfitted with a screw cap, retail for $15-16 a bottle, incredible when you realize you are getting an organic wine in every sense. Seven BARRA of Mendocino wines, sealed using Nomacorc, a plant-based biopolymer cork with a zero carbon footprint, retail from $22-38 a bottle.
I had the pleasure of a LA Wine Writers Zoom tasting with Martha Barra, her daughter Shelley Maly, who handles sales, distribution and PR, and Randy Meyer, Director of Winemaking and Operations. Three wines were sampled, two under the Girasole label, and one from BARRA of Mendocino. The consensus, the wines were absolutely delicious and distinctive, the quality so high for the price!
Martha spoke about her marketing plan for both labels. Girasole, which is Italian for sunflower, is crafted with an organic bent, fruit forward, lighter oak, and a lower price point. She noted, “I recognize that women buy 80% of wine, and Girasole is targeted to women, with its sunflower on the label.” Martha explained the differences in labels, “BARRA is the best of the best, handled with kit gloves, aged in the best barrels, and is the premier brand that receives lots of loving attention”.
Randy Meyer left his studies in medicine to pursue winemaking, attending UC Davis in a space where “art and science blend”. Working for Korbel, M. Draxton, and Geyser Peak over the past 30-plus years, Randy joined BARRA in 2019 after Charlie Barra passed, overseeing their organic winemaking and custom crush facility, which is also CCOF certified.
Now for the wines:
Girasole Vineyards Rosé 2020 (SRP $15) is a 51% Pinot Noir/49% Zinfandel blend, fruity yet refreshing in its mouthwatering essence. Aromas of strawberries, rose petal, and passion fruit bring a juicy wine to the palate, lightly structured and mineral with flavors of raspberry, strawberry, white peach, citrus and a touch of spice. It’s fresh, bright and balanced, delicate in the dance of fruit and acidity. What an amazing deal, and a perfect summer sipper.
Girasole Vineyards Charlie’s Blend 2019 (SRP $16) is an enticing blend of 39% Merlot, 29% Cabernet Sauvignon, 16% Zinfandel, and 16% Petite Sirah. This very first vintage pays tribute to Charlie Barra, who loved to blend the leftovers from various BARRA lots into one succulent wine. Smooth and silky, with aromas and flavors of boysenberry, raspberry, caramel, vanilla, and toasted marshmallow, well-integrated tannins usher in a long and nuanced finish. Each of the four varietals contribute to the blend: Cabernet Sauvignon is the backbone and structure, Merlot from the 2019 vintage was a fruit bomb, Zinfandel brings boysenberry fruit and black pepper, and Petite Sirah adds a deep purple hue and tannic backbone. This wine slowly blossomed once open, and became almost seamless in its ripe character and subtle flavor notes, a delight to drink by the glass and great with food
BARRA of Mendocino Petite Sirah 2018 (SRP $26) is rich and full-bodied, 100% Petite Sirah with all of its boldness. Aromas of blackberry, black pepper, spice, earth and cedar draw you in, highlighting flavors of cocoa, roasted coffee and caramel within its dense texture, while luxurious tannins coat your palate. It’s an intense, structured wine, enticing with its aromatics and mouthfeel, and certainly not as tannic as many other Petite Sirahs. This award-winning wine is their flagship, launching the BARRA brand in 1997, and today’s price point is incredible. It’s a high quality wine, comparable to other California Petite Sirah that is much more expensive. Although it would benefit from cellaring, opening it ahead of time and serving it with a ribeye steak would be nirvana.
BARRA is involved with the CORO Mendocino project, which was established in 2000 to showcase the world-class grapes of Mendocino County. CORO comes from the Latin root for “Chorus”, and refers to select producers blending a distinctive wine based on the heritage wine grape varietals of Mendocino County. These ultra premium, signature blends are crafted with 100% Mendocino County fruit, mostly Zinfandel-based, with the addition of small amounts of Syrah, Carignane, Sangiovese, Petite Sirah, Grenache, Dolcetto, Charbono, Barbera, and Primitivo. The wines are produced with strict protocols, and must pass four reviews by a tasting panel. Only then can they receive the CORO label for distribution.
BARRA of Mendocino has a tasting room in the heart of Mendocino wine country, and a membership wine club, The Chanterelle Club, which is a big part of its wine sales. Girasole is widely available, while BARRA wines are more limited, but online wine sales can fulfill your order.
BARRA of Mendocino not only talks the talk, but walks the walk, embracing all of the vineyard and winemaking practices that earn them the distinction of organic and sustainable, at a price that consumers can afford to drink every day.