There is a quiet revolution fermenting in Napa Valley wine country, a Sauvignon of a different color is gaining traction among the red wine geography.  Sauvignon Blanc, a classic white wine, is getting noticed, with many of Napa’s cult producers jumping onboard.  If you think you know Sauvignon Blanc, with its laser-precise New Zealand profile of herbaceous tropical fruit and lime, or the crisp, mineral French wines of the Loire Valley and Bordeaux, rethink what it can be in the New World of California.  Fruit-forward and bright, with riper citrus and tropical fruit notes, a textured mouthfeel from time in used or new oak barrels, and a racy thread of acidity that connects the wines to its Old World roots, these are the complex, sophisticated Sauvignon Blancs that are being made today in Napa Valley.

Robert Mondavi was the driving force behind Sauvignon Blanc coming to Napa Valley in the late 1960’s.  Mondavi enjoyed French versions of the grape, and planted it in Napa Valley, calling it Fumè Blanc to overcome its lackluster reputation in the US.  Currently the fourth most planted varietal in the Valley, winemakers are experimenting with Sauvignon Blanc.  From the vineyard to the cellar, producers are crafting aromatic wines with zesty acidity, yet lush and round, with the nuances of oak barrel aging and time on the lees contributing to an enticing complexity.

Wine and travel writer Barbara Barrielle gets the scoop on Napa Valley Sauvignon Blanc from Caroline Stewart Guthrie

In May 2018, I was introduced to eight Napa Valley Sauvignon Blancs and their winemakers at Charles Krug Winery, as part of a Wine Writers Educational Trust (WWET) deep dive into the region.  Some were perfect for the searing heat of August, fresh and bright, while others revealed themselves slowly, layers of flavor and texture, that could be drunk anytime, by the glass or with food.

Charles Krug St. Helena-Napa Valley Sauvignon Blanc 2017 ($18) is all about freshness, hand-picked at night, cold-soaked to preserve its aromatics, and cold fermented in steel tanks to keep it crisp and delicate.  Well balanced, with aromas of lime and grapefruit, and flavors of citrus and passionfruit, this medium-light bodied wine is vibrant in the glass.

Caroline Stewart Guthrie, Co-Proprietor of Stewart Cellars

Stewart Cellars Napa Valley Sauvignon Blanc 2016 ($25) is a textured wine that reveals its combination of winemaking techniques on the palate.  Hand-harvested from Stanly Ranch Vineyard, whole cluster pressed and settled overnight, it’s fermented half in barrel and half in stainless steel tank.  Fragrant on the nose with gooseberry (which correlates to fresh and tart green fruit), nettles and tropical fruit, layers of citrus fruit (lemon, lime, grapefruit) are interwoven with a mineral thread, balanced acidity, and a textured mouthfeel lingers long after the last sip is taken.

Jim Close, Winemaker for Gamble Family Vineyards

Gamble Family Vineyards Gamble Vineyard Sauvignon Blanc 2016 ($25) is zesty and succulent at the same time.  Four clones, two from the Loire and two from Bordeaux, flesh out the fruit, while native yeast, lees stirring, and 70% neutral oak barrel aging produce layers of flavor.  Mouthwatering aromas of Meyer lemon, apricot, and ginger infuse the citrus mineral palate, grapefruit and lemongrass make for a juicy wine, but still a rich and elegant finish.

Gamble Heart Block Sauvignon Blanc 2015 ($90) is intense and remarkable, although the fruit comes from the same vineyard as the previous one, it’s harvested from the center, the heart of the vineyard.  Fermented in 45% new French oak for 18 months, it’s so very different, the nose is sweet, more apricot, citrus marmalade, and creme brulée, yet it’s dry, a rich creamy texture is interlaced with the brisk citrus, with savory accents of white pepper, lime and flint, with a finish that goes on and on.  This wine is one for the cellar, and will benefit from time in the bottle.  A limited production, it’s only available to Gamble Wine Club members or through the tasting room.

Remi Cohen, General Manager and Director of Winemaking for Cliff Lede Vineyards

Cliff Lede Napa Valley Sauvignon Blanc 2017 ($25) is a Bordeaux-style wine blend of 86% Sauvignon Blanc, 12% Semillon, and 2% Sauvignon Vert (better known as Muscadelle).  Old vine fruit, hand-harvested at night, whole cluster pressed, cold-soaked for up to 12 hours, and fermented in a combination of French oak, stainless steel, and concrete egg, this is an outstanding Sauvignon Blanc.  An intricate interplay of citrus (Meyer lemon, key lime, ruby grapefruit, kumquat), with quince, coconut, pie crust and basil notes floats on on a rich, full-bodied, waxy texture, truly a lot of bang for the buck.

Genevieve Janssens, Director of Winemaking for Robert Mondavi Winery

Robert Mondavi Fumé Blanc To Kalon Vineyard Reserve 2015 ($52) expresses Mondavi’s original inspiration, French Sauvignon Blanc through the lens of California terroir.  The To Kalon Vineyard, recognized as one of the finest vineyards in the world, was originally planted in 1868; in the coveted I-block, 60-year-old Sauvignon Blanc vines provide the fruit for this legendary Fumè Blanc.  This elegant, concentrated wine is incredibly long and complex, a result of a slow, cool fermentation in French oak, aged on its lees for 9 months, and a small amount of Semillon, aged in concrete eggs, was blended in to add richness and complexity.  White floral notes accent the white peach, pear, Key lime and lemon peel flavors, with spice and juicy acidity adding to the palate’s artistic mosaic and luxurious mouthfeel.

Amy Ludovissy, Assistant Winemaker for Girard Winery

Girard Napa Valley Sauvignon Blanc 2016 ($18) is the sum total of three vineyards from different parts of the Valley, each bringing a specific component (citrus, floral, and tropical fruit) to this acid-driven wine.  A slow, cool fermentation elevated the aromatics, with no oak involved, the complexity comes from the various vineyards’ micro-climates, where the fruit is grown.  Fresh and bright, kiwi, honeydew, and lime on the palate, this is a fun party wine that will please.

Luke Clayton, Assistant Winemaker for Rombauer Vineyards

Rombauer Vineyards Napa Valley Sauvignon Blanc 2017 ($24) is fresh, juicy and vibrant on the palate.  Lots of effort went into finding the right mix of factors to create a white wine that can stand up to their reputation for Chardonnay, this Sauvignon Blanc only in its fourth vintage.  Fermented in mostly stainless steel, with a small percentage of neutral French oak for texture, this is a bright wine with tropical fruit notes of mango, passion fruit, pineapple and papaya, with a grassy accent.  Lively acidity makes this a perfect wine for summer festivities, it even comes with a screw cap for convenience.

Napa Valley makes intriguing Sauvignon Blanc wines, a dynamic blend of styles, from mouthwatering acidity to creamy texture, layers of citrus, stone and/or tropical fruit, framed by oak and concrete egg aging, or a purity of fruit focused by stainless steel tanks.  These complex wines put a new spin on the white wines of the region, mouthwatering and mouthfilling, bringing a new dimension to the winescape of the Valley.  There's a new Sauvignon in Napa, for the lighter side of life!