Irvine & Roberts Vineyards is an anomaly in the Rogue Valley of Southern Oregon, a high altitude cool site that sits at the bottom of a warm winemaking region. Here, at 2100 feet elevation, the perfect cradle for Chardonnay and Pinot Noir is provided, a jumble of soils that were birthed from dramatic continental drift, water-carved terroir and wind-driven erosion. Within this Goldilocks site, similar to the great vineyards of Burgundy, well-drained soils that are rich in nutrients provide the basis for premium wine grape growing, albeit in a very different climate. What has been accomplished in a relatively short amount of time is amazing. Irvine & Roberts have concentrated on what the land has given them, making outstanding Pinot Noir and Chardonnay by planting small blocks of distinctive clonal selections most suited to the soils and microclimate of that part of the vineyard. This is the secret behind their very expressive wines, wines that will leave their imprint on your palate and your soul.
Irvine & Roberts is the story of the accidental winemakers, a happy coincidence of fate that brought Doug and Dionne Irvine to winemaking in the Rogue Valley, outside of Ashland, Oregon. With no visions of winemaking dancing in their heads, they bought this 80 acre ranch in 1997, intending to raise their daughters away from the hustle and bustle of Southern California life. But during a European trip in 2005, Doug experienced an epiphany with a Gaja Nebbiolo, and went home to try his hand at winemaking. Although he made it once, and it didn’t turn out well, the Irvines’ eyes were opened to what was happening around them. Wine growing and making was taking off in Southern Oregon, with enthusiasm and talent trickling down from the Willamette Valley and international interest as well.
One thing led to another, a small experimental vineyard led to today’s expansive enterprise, teaming up with Doug’s sister, Kelly, and her husband, Duane Roberts, and Irvine & Roberts has captured lightning in a bottle. Attracting top talent to help make their dreams come true, with winemaker Vince Vidrine onboard since 2017, several clones of Pinot Noir paint a complex picture of the vineyard, in addition to their Estate Chardonnay and a stunning Pinot Meunier.
I’ve had the opportunity to taste their wines and enjoy Irvine & Roberts story twice in 2019, once in LA at an LA Wine Writers luncheon and next time at their vineyard estate outside of Ashland. Although Doug and Dionne were both Oregon-born, they made their fortune in Southern California. Doug, the real estate developer and Dionne, the real estate agent and manager, met and married in 1990, and then started their own company together. Once their daughters entered the picture, Doug and Dionne felt it was time to move back to Oregon for a quality family life in 2001, moving to the ranch they had purchased in 1997. They planted their first vines in 2007, added to it in 2012, and made the final push in 2017, completing the winery and opening the tasting room. Dionne was excited for the future, and as Doug acknowledged, she was “the visionary and glue behind it all.” And as the winemaking adventure began, Dionne confessed, “I’ve never loved anything so much in my life.”
Acknowledging the work involved, accumulating more acreage and planting more vineyards, the Irvines see themselves as stewards of the land, where a gentle touch and sustainable focus reap their rewards. They practice organic wine grape growing, although they are not certified, but they are LIVE certified (a more stringent sustainable standard specific to the Pacific Northwest) and Salmon Safe (water management specific to managing run-off into streams and rivers). Seven Pinot Noir clones, two Chardonnay clones, and one very special Pinot Meunier form the foundation for their wines. Vince Vidrine joined Irvine & Roberts in 2017 as Head Winemaker. His pedigree is tremendous, working around the world from New Zealand to Burgundy to the Willamette Valley. Vidrine’s skill as a Pinot Noir whisperer allows him to imprint his style on what the vineyards and terroir offer.
Vidrine brings his expansive experience and knowledge to their family-owned winery. His attention to detail is phenomenal, from barrels to spreadsheets that track everything. Of barrels, Vidrine believes that “Oak is the stage, not the play, the highlight is what’s going onstage.” It’s this unique spot, with its high elevation, hours of sunlight, diurnal temperature swings, and wind, all these factors drive fruit expression, structure and acidity. The finished wines reflect this, respecting the freshness but definitely more textural and expressive due to the extra hang time on the vines. Vidrine is listening to what the vineyards are telling him, and using his skills to make memorable wines. Since I last visited pre-pandemic, new wines have been crafted. For Pinot Noir, there is Clandestine, Convergence, Elevation, and The Discovery. For Chardonnay, there is Ascendance and Convergence. And waiting on the next major development, Irvine & Roberts is delving into producing sparkling wines, which has its own learning curve, but one I’m sure the team can master.
So many wonderful wines, between my two tastings, here is a brief summary:
The Irvine & Roberts Estate Chardonnay 2017 is a stunner, a blend of six different clones, aromatic with stone fruit, white flowers, fresh herbs and mineral notes. So beautifully balanced, juicy with an elegant roundness, and flavors of apricot, lemon and pear. Elegant in the style of a French Burgundy, yet with the richness of a New World Chardonnay, it is enchanting in its lingering presence on the palate. This is an impressive wine, in both the 2016 and 2017 vintages that I tasted. The Reserve version is richer and fuller, as you can see in the above photo, compared side by side.
The Irvine & Roberts Rosé of Pinot Noir is farmed specifically for rosé, exhibiting a fresh and delicate character. Aromas and flavors of strawberry, kiwi, lemon, and honeydew stand out, with accents of vanilla and shortbread. This is a bright wine that flows softly over the palate.
The Irvine & Roberts Pinot Meunier is so exciting, delicious, and intriguing. Ethereal yet structured, this is definitely a showstopper, with its bright red fruit, crushed rose petal, wild herbs and damp earth notes. An elegant and savory wine, this is a favorite among all that taste it. This small production is snapped up quickly by those in the know.
The Irvine & Roberts Estate Pinot Noir is a blend of six clones, yielding the varied nuances of the different clonal characteristics. This is their flagship wine, supple and refined, with vibrant layers of red and dark fruit, accented with orange peel and nutmeg, a savory and elegant wine with polished tannins and baking spice notes on the finish. The Reserve is obviously fuller and rounder, with more dark fruit character.
The Irvine & Roberts 777 Block Pinot Noir is generous, with bright red fruit that unfurls alongside a grassy, dried wildflower essence. An elegant wine with silky tannins and a long expansive finish.
The Irvine & Roberts Wadenswil Block Pinot Noir is dense and earthy, with intense dark fruit and spice, it’s well balanced with hints of cocoa and violets. Both single clone Pinots reflect a deeper and more dynamic flavor and character.
Nestled between two mountain ranges, the Cascades and Siskiyou, Irvine & Roberts offers a spectacular tasting experience. With stunning views of the estate vineyards, served with Doug and Dionne’s hospitality and charm, you’ll want to linger and drink in what makes Irvine & Roberts so special. Tastings are by appointment only, Thursday-Monday 12-6pm, with all COVID precautions in place, and lots of room to taste outside. But if you can't travel to their Oregon estate, online sales and wine club memberships can allow you to virtually participate in the magic of very cool wines in a trendy hot spot. Irvine & Roberts is just getting started, and their future is bright.
*** To learn more about Rogue Valley wines, check out my previous article, The Rising Wine Country of Southern Oregon’s Rogue Valley ***
*** To learn more about Rogue Valley wines, check out my previous article, The Rising Wine Country of Southern Oregon’s Rogue Valley ***