The Magic of Argentiera Bolgheri and Their Enchanting Super Tuscan Wines

Nicolò Carrara, Enologist for Tenuta Argentiera, in Los Angeles March 2024

The Magic of Argentiera Bolgheri and Their Enchanting Super Tuscan Wines
May 28,2024

For enologist Nicolò Carrara, Tenuta Argentiera is a magical place. Within the cradle of Italy’s famed Bolgheri DOC region, hillside vineyards at varying elevations bask in the reflected sunlight and breezes of the Tyrrhenian Sea. Planted among the estate’s patchwork landscape of pine forests, oak trees, olive groves and Mediterranean scrub, four distinct vineyard plots are arranged in a natural amphitheater, facing the sea. Diurnal temperature swings allow for distinct wines to be made from each plot, ripening and cooling the clusters, allowing for complex phenolic ripeness.

Argentiera estate and winery, Courtesy of Argentiera

Argentiera’s elegant and expressive wines are the stuff of a winemaker’s dream. Natural balance in the vineyards is achieved with minimal intervention and maximum terroir. The wines reflect the terroir, the different composition of the individual plot’s subsoil defines the distinct vineyard personalities; round ripe tannins and minerality from the stony soils make for rich, structured and velvety wines; fresh acidity and silky finesse contribute to its complexity Harmony is achieved from respect for the estate lands, coached by famed French wine consultant Stephane Derencourt.

Nicolò Carrara keeping an eye on the evolving wine, Courtesy of Argentiera

Argentiera barrel room, Courtesy of Argentiera

Carrara has been here for 15 of the 24 years that Argentiera has existed. Created by the Fratini family in 1999, and named for the silver “argento” mines that once stretched across Bolgheri’s hills, Carrara came to head their cellar in 2009 as winemaker. Then in 2015, new ownership from Austrian entrepreneur Stanislaus Turnauer reinvigorated efforts to produce world-class wine. Investments were made in the vineyards, taking a sustainable approach, and a modern winemaking facility was built to gently coax the best from each of the Bordeaux varieties. Carrara worked at Chateau Palmer in Bordeaux for a brief period before coming to Argentiera and understands the winemaking philosophy behind the blend. He aims to make elegant wine with a strong connection to the vineyards, translating the beauty of Argentiera’s estate to the bottle.

Poggio ai Ginepri vineyard, closest to the sea, Courtesy of Argentiera

Poggio ai Ginepri vineyard, Courtesy of Argentiera

Villa Donoratico vineyard, Courtesy of Argentiera

Conservation of soils under grass cover in Villa Donoratico vineyard, Courtesy of Argentiera

Ventaglio's fan-shaped vineyard, Courtesy of Argentiera

Harvest in Ventaglio, Courtesy of Argentiera

Argentiera main hilltop vineyard, Courtesy of Argentiera

Argentiera vineyard, source of their Superiore, Courtesy of Argentiera

The four vineyards or “identities” are fascinatingly detailed in a 3D video on their website, illustrating vineyard position and orientation, elevation, soil types, grape varieties planted, and which wines are made from each plot. It’s like a masterclass, helping the consumer understand the intricacies of Argentiera’s estate. Poggio ai Ginepri, the most low lying vineyard is planted to Cabernet Sauvignon, Petit Verdot, Merlot, Cabernet Franc and Vermentino, a new project, its red sand soils, rich in iron, yield fruit-driven wines. Villa Donoratico drapes over the lower hills, the sandy limestone and rocky soils are planted to Cabernet Franc, Merlot, and Cabernet Sauvignon, giving more complexity and structure to the berries. The very small plot of Ventaglio is planted to 100% Cabernet Franc, the fan-shaped vineyard reveals complex terroir. The main estate vineyard, Argentiera, is at the top of the hill, benefitting from the ventilating breezes and sunlight mirror effect of the sea. It is the largest vineyard, rich in clay and complex minerals, planted to Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot, Cabernet Franc, and Syrah, making their iconic Superiore and I Pianeli Syrah blend.

Nicolò Carrara in Argentiera vineyard, Courtesy of Argentiera

Over the many years Carrara has worked with Argentiera’s vineyards, he is most surprised by the Merlot. Traditionally, Merlot is more “fat” and makes a full bodied wine, but here he found the acidity “like a white wine from the north” and the pH low. When he did an analysis on the just harvested Merlot, he was shocked to find this acidity at maximum ripeness of 14.8% alcohol, and has used that to “balance the freshness of the wines, finding the acidity gives energy to the wines.”

Nicolò Carrara checking out the infant clusters in Argentiera's vineyards, Courtesy of Argentiera

Not that Carrara doesn’t face challenges, especially with the global problem of climate change. Argentiera’s team works hard to manage what they can, allowing the vine canopy to shade the clusters, conserving soil vitality by maintaining grass cover and not tilling the topsoil, and drip irrigation in the summer when needed. Biodiversity within the estate allows for natural pest control. All of these vineyard approaches provide a foundation for the meticulous winery practices that allow Carrara to tease out the nuances of the 45 different small plots involved. Careful handling and gravity fed vats minimize the impact on the clusters. It could be said that the wines are mainly made in the vineyard, every winemaker’s goal, and that each bottle represents that unique place in the world, with a strong personality and identity.

Argentiera barrel room, Courtesy of Argentiera

Bolgheri became famous for its Super Tuscan wines, a term coined in the 1980’s to refer to wines that don’t follow the appellation rules of Italian wines, such as DOC or DOCG. In the forty plus years that winemakers have made these Bordeaux-styled blends from international grape varieties such as Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot, Cabernet Franc and Petit Verdot, they’ve captured the world’s attention. Made famous by the legendary “Sassicaia” from Tenuta San Guido, Super Tuscan wines are revered and often fetch higher prices than many DOC/DOCG Italian wines.

Bolgheri rode the wave of Super Tuscan popularity, and has become known for big, collectible red wines, similar to Bordeaux. Prestige has come to Bolgheri, as those in the know can expect to find deeply colored, supple and complex red wines.

(L-R) Volio Imports California Sales Director Dino Marone and Argentiera winemaker Nicolò Carrara in Los Angeles March 2024

Nicolò Carrara visited Los Angeles this Spring, spreading Argentiera’s message of fine wine. Over a leisurely five course dinner at Terra at Eataly, he shared their wines and his passion for the estate. The wines are very different from other Italian wines that you know, such as Chianti or Barolo, basically they are Bordeaux in Bolgheri.

Patricia Decker getting the scoop from Nicolò Carrara on Argentiera Super Tuscan wines

Every great meal should start with bubbles, and so did this one, but not from Argentiera, since they don’t make sparkling wines. For the first antipasti course of Frittura Mista di Verdure, glasses of Berlucchi ’61 Extra Brut and Rosé flowed freely. Then the second antipasti course of Zuppa ai Funghi was served with the first Argentiera wine, Bolgheri Rosso “Poggio ai Ginepri” 2021, considered their entry level, but also signature wine. Aged half in neutral oak barrels and half in stainless steel tanks, there are no oak influences. Elegant and fruity, this blend is made up of 40% Cabernet Sauvignon, 30% Merlot, 20% Cabernet Franc and 10% Petit Verdot. It has a distinctive Mediterranean character, with floral aromas of red flowers, sage, black cherry, medicinal herbs and cedar. Full-bodied and round, fleshy and silky, layered flavors of black plum, spice, mocha and balsamic notes float softly on the palate, a very pleasant wine with elegant tannins.

The first “Primo” course, Mezzi Paccheri ai Ragu di Salsiccia, topped with shaved black truffles, paired so well with the Argentiera Bolgheri Rosso “Villa Donoratico” 2020, a blend of 45% Cabernet Sauvignon, 30% Merlot, 15% Cabernet Franc and 10% Petit Verdot. This is an opulent, layered wine, ripe dark fruit, spice, tobacco and oak notes unfurl within integrated tannins and fresh acidity, making for a silky, deeply-flavored wine.

The second “Secondo” course, Filetto di Maiale with Salvia e Pecorino (Pork filet), served to launch the Argentiera Bolgheri Superiore 2019, the iconic estate wine, made from Argentiera’s best vineyards. This is Carrara’s favorite, for him, it’s an “emotional wine”. Each vintage blend is slightly different, in 2019, it’s 50% Merlot, 44% Cabernet Sauvignon and 6% Cabernet Franc. Rich, intense and extremely complex, aromas of cherry, plum, chocolate and spice swirl around leather, tobacco, black pepper and eucalyptus notes, full-bodied and plush with texture, a vein of acidity keeping it fresh. Extremely well made, you could get lost in its depth of aromas and flavors, a long persistent finish resonates after the last sip.

Nicolò Carrara presents "Ventaglio" in Los Angeles

A treat and surprise before dessert, Carrara opened a very special, limited edition of Ventaglio, Argentiera’s first single vineyard wine, 100% Cabernet Franc. Packaged in a handpainted box that opens like a fan, mirroring the Ventaglio vineyard, this is a stunning wine. Complex and intensely powerful, it’s vibrant and dense with aromas and flavors of black cherry, plum, fig, rosemary, tobacco and crushed stone. The nuances of the vineyard are reflected in this highly rated wine, a small but mighty production of just 3,000 bottles.

For the last course, the “Dolce”, a Tiramisu was served alongside a Marsala Superiore Florio 2017, a good choice to finish this guided tour of Argentiera’s wines.

Nicolò Carrara in Argentiera's cellar, Courtesy of Argentiera

For Nicolò Carrara, Argentiera’s magic is found in each and every bottle of wine. He’s most proud of not only the quality but the consistency of the wine, producing age-worthy vintages that will stand the test of time, a classic in the making. Whether it’s still in vogue to call them Super Tuscans or not, Tenuta Argentiera’s estate wines are super in every way.

Links to more information on Tenuta Argentiera:

Argentiera Wines, https://www.argentiera.eu/en/
Estate vineyards 3D map, scroll down at https://www.argentiera.eu/en/the-estate/
Poggio ai Ginepri Toscana IGT 2021 tech sheet   https://www.argentiera.eu/media/file//12/EN-2021.pdf
Villa Donoratico Bolgheri DOC Rosso 2020 tech sheet   https://www.argentiera.eu/media/file//10/EN-2020.pdf
Argentiera Bolgheri DOC Superiore 2019 tech sheet   https://www.argentiera.eu/media/file//8/EN-2019.pdf
Ventaglio Toscana IGT 2016 tech sheet   https://www.argentiera.eu/media/file//11/EN-2016.pdf