Visceral and explosive, the highly acclaimed and powerful wines of Denner Vineyards will enchant and enthrall you.  Producing Rhône and Bordeaux style wines for the past twenty years in the oasis of Paso Robles dirt, Denner offers a sensory experience, what winemaker Anthony Yount summarizes as a “high yummy factor”.  One sip and you’ll be transported, what Yount describes as “suspenseful” aromas and flavors.  Perhaps suspended animation, as time stands still for that first sip, and then the energy flows over you.  The wine blossoms ever so slowly, like a flower, revealing its sensory essence a little at a time, evolving in the swirl of smell and taste, it's mesmerizing.

Ron Denner, Courtesy of Denner Vineyards

Estate Vineyards, Courtesy of Denner Vineyards

Over 20 years ago, Ron Denner came to Paso and bought land on the Westside, realizing a dream that he had for years.  The limestone deposits in this area gave Denner an advantage, promoting vine health, water retention, drainage and higher acidity in the finished wines.  The business plan was to set up things right for the long haul.  Sustainable and environmentally friendly in its operation, it encompasses everything from dry farming when possible, organically farmed vines (but not certified), a gravity flow system, 100% solar and wastewater treatment on site. These practices seem to give the wines “a true representation of time and place”, and if you're familiar with Paso Robles, this liquid gold appears to capture it perfectly.

Denner Vineyards Dirt Worshipper 2018

Denner Vineyards Mother of Exiles 2018

I had the pleasure of participating in a Zoom tasting of two of Denner’s flagship wines with Winemaker Anthony Yount, General Manager Carol Rounsaville and Chief Cellar Master Paul Lopez.  And it’s true, it’s a revelation to experience the Dirt Worshipper and Mother of Exiles, two big Paso wines that are different but will have you pondering the mysteries of the universe nonetheless.  According to Yount, although every year is a surprise, the textural profiles come together for the style of wine that they want to make.  But 2018 was a particularly sweet spot for Paso wines, considered the best vintage in the past ten years.

The 2018 Dirt Worshipper (SRP $80) is a stunner, 98% Syrah co-fermented with 1% Viognier and 1% Roussanne for color, elegance, and mid-palate presence.  The name is a play on Ron Denner’s previous career, operating Ditch Witch dealerships throughout the Western US.  Sourced from five vineyards, the fruit is all fermented separately, with almost half whole cluster, and then back blended, and aged in a variety of oak barrels (15% new French, 7% new Hungarian, and the rest in neutral oak).  This is an explosive wine, with a savory nose of olive tapenade, white pepper, violets, blackberry, seared meats, nuts and pomegranate.  The rich and plush texture belie that balance of acidity and roundness, it’s a refined blend of Old and New World styles.  Opulent and mouth-filling to the nth degree, it finishes incredibly long, and goes on and on.  This would be a perfect pair with grilled meats or porcini mushroom dishes.

The 2018 Mother of Exiles (SRP $80) is very different from the Dirt Worshipper, brooding and powerful but not too lean or too ripe, the Goldilocks syndrome, just right.  The name comes from a poem, called “Mother of Exiles”, that refers to the Statue of Liberty and its flame.  A dense Bordeaux blend, 68% Cabernet Sauvignon, 22% Petit Verdot, 6% Merlot, and 4% Cabernet Franc, made from all estate fruit, it yields aromas of blackberry, violet, iodine, and leather.  Flavors of fig, cassis, espresso and graphite follow, while the round and polished tannins caress the palate.

There is fresh acidity woven throughout, and each grape varietal contributes to the overall impression.  According to Chief Cellar Master Paul Lopez, Cabernet Sauvignon gives it the red fruit and structure, Merlot brings softness and strawberry fruit, Petit Verdot adds color and the floral element, Cabernet Franc offers baking spice accents, and the new French oak barrels donate vanilla, coffee, and cocoa notes.  Lopez believes that Petit Verdot is unique in this blend, and that the key is balance, to let the fruit shine and make sure the tannins don’t overpower the wine.  It’s this blend of density, power, finesse, and refinement that allows this wine to age beautifully.  Although the Mother of Exiles demonstrates vintage differences, overall the wine is very consistent in its profile.

Courtesy of Denner Vineyards

Courtesy of Denner Vineyards

Denner Vineyards makes nine wines; a Rhône-style Rosé, Viognier, Theresa (white Rhône blend), and the rest are reds.  According to Yount, “We make an effort to make sure you don’t taste the time and energy spent on the wines”.  Their two estate vineyards, Willow Creek and Adelaida, provide an interesting palette for their blends.  Willow Creek is the coolest, wetter with some fog, which makes for more spice and savory notes.  Adelaida is warmer, with no fog, which makes for more ripeness with floral and fruit notes.

Comus Crush tasting room, Courtesy of Denner Vineyards

Comus Vista tasting room, Courtesy of Denner Vineyards

To really taste the essence of Denner Vineyards, General Manager Carol Rounsaville recommends visiting the estate.  Here, there are two tasting room experiences, Comus Crush for wine club members, and Comus Vista for the public.  Currently, because of Covid precautions, tastings are by appointment only, with a sit down sampling of five wines, and tables spaced ten feet apart, with sanitizing protocols between visitors.  Denner is open daily from 10-4, and the $25 tasting fee is waived upon bottle purchase.  If you become smitten, there are advantages to joining the wine club.  Members have access to limited production wines, complimentary tastings for up to six people, event invitations, discounts on wines, and free shipping anywhere in the US.

Denner is considered one of Paso Robles best kept secrets, but maybe not much longer.  Wine Spectator named Dirt Worshipper as #18 of its Top 100 wines of 2019.  Word is getting out, that some of the most exciting and yummy wines are coming from Denner Vineyards.