Coen Estates produces wine from a pristine location high in the Mendoza province in Argentina, where the clean water and untouched soils give a clarified essence to the wines. The property, owned by Fernando Vera and his family, has benefitted from Vera’s vineyard expertise in sustainable winegrowing. Teaming up with Hans Chang, the owner of Houston-based Forever Blossom, Vera and Chang created Coen, a passion project with a goal of producing world-class, high quality wines. With its two 3,000 feet high altitude, certified-organic vineyards, Vera keeps a close eye on the water and soil, ensuring that the hand-harvested grapes will be undamaged and pure in flavor.
To make their wines, Vera and Chang turned to acclaimed Italian winemaker Attilio Pagli, perhaps better known for the standout Italian wines of Caprai Sagrantino di Montefalco 25 Anni and Salvioni Brunello di Montalcino. Pagli came to Argentina to consult with Nicolas Catena almost 30 years ago on his Malbec vineyards, and helped Malbec become an international sensation. His expertise in crafting exceptional wines around the world has helped define the Coen brand, with their philosophy of environment first, crafting three distinct 100% Malbec wines, the Coen Malbec Rosé, Classic Malbec, and Coen Malbec Reserve from the Uco Valley.
The Coen Malbec Reserve 2019 ($44.99) is a shy bloomer, that slowly unfurls its charms with time. As such, it’s best to open the bottle 2-3 hours before drinking, or maybe decanting an hour before. The time and effort involved will be rewarded, because this wine evolves in the glass. You might say all wines do, but this Malbec is even more so, and it doesn’t have anything to do with the tannins. Initially it seems to be a lighter-bodied wine, with an intense palate, but as it aerates, a richer yet more delicate balance occurs, with the red and blue fruit, sweet spice notes of cinnamon, cocoa, and coffee, and hints of graphite becoming one. A silky mouthfeel and long, persistent finish defines this Malbec, tasting more like a European wine than traditional Argentinean Malbec.
The Coen Malbec Reserve is a different incarnation of Malbec, and perhaps a sign of the future, with one of the best winemakers in the world at the helm, this Malbec is very balanced, and nuanced, the texture and finish are definitely world-class.