Jeff Freeland, General Manager of Oso Libre Wines
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With so many wineries in the world, how do you set yourself apart from the crowd? Or better yet, how to stand out from the herd! Oso Libre Wines of Paso Robles fully embraces the Old West theme, offering quality wine and beef to club members throughout the year. Red wine and red meat? A match made in heaven!
Twenty years ago, Linda and Chris Behr bought 90 acres of undeveloped land outside of Paso Robles. Chris dreamt of being a cattle rancher, but in a serendipitous turn of fate, ended up smack in the middle of the fastest growing wine region in the US. The ranch theme took shape, and Oso Libre, Spanish for “Free Bear”, was born, the name a play on blended family names and a nod to the pioneer spirit of Paso. Turning to their son, Jeff Freeland, in 2007, the Behrs started their grand wine experiment, with a huge learning curve, after years of studying everything they could get their hands on about viticulture and making wine. Twenty acres of vines were planted, Cabernet Sauvignon, Primitivo, Mourvedre, Grenache Blanc, and Viognier, in what is now known as the Adelaida District AVA of Paso Robles. Discovering how distinct their vineyard land was, with its elevation, cooler climate and proximity to the Pacific Ocean, only 10 miles to the west, has led them on a quite a journey.
Diverse soils make up the rolling hillsides on their estate, and are planted to what each grape varietal needs, such as Cabernet Sauvignon and Zinfandel on the sloping calcareous limestone soils, to bring out their best expression. Pockets of fog and humidity hang over the lower parts of the estate vineyards, and require extra work to manage the fruit. Their unique microclimate, cooler than many areas around Paso Robles, results in a delayed harvest, late October or early November. The wine grapes enjoy an extended hang time, 4-6 weeks longer than average, making wines that are more intense in flavor, color, and complexity, all the while displaying their true varietal characteristics in round and balanced elixirs.
If it’s true that great wine is made in the vineyard, the Behrs have committed themselves to being stewards of the land. Sustainable ranching, incorporating wind and solar energy, pest management, water conservation, and habitat conservation, earned them a SIP (Sustainable In Practice) certification, culminating in a 0% carbon footprint today. Dry farmed, the vines’ roots push their way deep down through the rugged landscape 30-40 feet until they reach the water table. Employing a flock of 60 Olde English Babydoll sheep to do vineyard maintenance was a good fit; released among the vines after harvest, they clean off the debris, fertilize the soil and manage weeds in the Spring, joined by some industrious free-range chickens.
After throwing open the doors in late 2009, the family dedicated Oso Libre to premium, small production wines, with a dozen different bottles produced, all unfiltered. Bordeaux and Rhône style wines are their focus, buying fruit from neighboring vineyards to produce what their estate can’t. Primitivo, related to Zinfandel, makes up the Nativo bottle and is blended into three others, bringing spice, body, and character to the wines. Striving for consistency and the highest quality, no wine is released that the family doesn’t like. In fact, Oso Libre enters their wines in competitions just to see how they stack up against other wines, and with nine wines awarded 90 points or better, they’re flat-out thrilled.
With all this critical acclaim, it’s been a struggle to stay small and keep true to their original intentions. Oso Libre is a “Wine Club Only” winery, where 90% of all Estate wines are allocated only for the wine club, 2800 members strong. The other 10% is sold to restaurants and wine bars, and not available for retail purchase in wine shops. Currently at capacity, there’s a waiting list for new club memberships, a necessary restriction to continue to properly age the wines and not run out of bottles for members. The Behrs never release a wine before its time, waiting for at least three years past the vintage.
Finding the key to success, “Vines, Wines and Angus” distinguished them from other wine clubs. Their award-winning artisanal estate wines, paired with ultra premium Angus beef, gave them a different angle. The cattle, pasture raised, grass fed and hormone free, are finished with a beer mash, grain and molasses, and dry aged, giving the meat a distinct “beefy” flavor. About a dozen steer are harvested each year, and their meat, from steaks to sausage, is sold through the Beef Club.
Twenty years ago, Linda and Chris Behr bought 90 acres of undeveloped land outside of Paso Robles. Chris dreamt of being a cattle rancher, but in a serendipitous turn of fate, ended up smack in the middle of the fastest growing wine region in the US. The ranch theme took shape, and Oso Libre, Spanish for “Free Bear”, was born, the name a play on blended family names and a nod to the pioneer spirit of Paso. Turning to their son, Jeff Freeland, in 2007, the Behrs started their grand wine experiment, with a huge learning curve, after years of studying everything they could get their hands on about viticulture and making wine. Twenty acres of vines were planted, Cabernet Sauvignon, Primitivo, Mourvedre, Grenache Blanc, and Viognier, in what is now known as the Adelaida District AVA of Paso Robles. Discovering how distinct their vineyard land was, with its elevation, cooler climate and proximity to the Pacific Ocean, only 10 miles to the west, has led them on a quite a journey.
Diverse soils make up the rolling hillsides on their estate, and are planted to what each grape varietal needs, such as Cabernet Sauvignon and Zinfandel on the sloping calcareous limestone soils, to bring out their best expression. Pockets of fog and humidity hang over the lower parts of the estate vineyards, and require extra work to manage the fruit. Their unique microclimate, cooler than many areas around Paso Robles, results in a delayed harvest, late October or early November. The wine grapes enjoy an extended hang time, 4-6 weeks longer than average, making wines that are more intense in flavor, color, and complexity, all the while displaying their true varietal characteristics in round and balanced elixirs.
If it’s true that great wine is made in the vineyard, the Behrs have committed themselves to being stewards of the land. Sustainable ranching, incorporating wind and solar energy, pest management, water conservation, and habitat conservation, earned them a SIP (Sustainable In Practice) certification, culminating in a 0% carbon footprint today. Dry farmed, the vines’ roots push their way deep down through the rugged landscape 30-40 feet until they reach the water table. Employing a flock of 60 Olde English Babydoll sheep to do vineyard maintenance was a good fit; released among the vines after harvest, they clean off the debris, fertilize the soil and manage weeds in the Spring, joined by some industrious free-range chickens.
After throwing open the doors in late 2009, the family dedicated Oso Libre to premium, small production wines, with a dozen different bottles produced, all unfiltered. Bordeaux and Rhône style wines are their focus, buying fruit from neighboring vineyards to produce what their estate can’t. Primitivo, related to Zinfandel, makes up the Nativo bottle and is blended into three others, bringing spice, body, and character to the wines. Striving for consistency and the highest quality, no wine is released that the family doesn’t like. In fact, Oso Libre enters their wines in competitions just to see how they stack up against other wines, and with nine wines awarded 90 points or better, they’re flat-out thrilled.
With all this critical acclaim, it’s been a struggle to stay small and keep true to their original intentions. Oso Libre is a “Wine Club Only” winery, where 90% of all Estate wines are allocated only for the wine club, 2800 members strong. The other 10% is sold to restaurants and wine bars, and not available for retail purchase in wine shops. Currently at capacity, there’s a waiting list for new club memberships, a necessary restriction to continue to properly age the wines and not run out of bottles for members. The Behrs never release a wine before its time, waiting for at least three years past the vintage.
Finding the key to success, “Vines, Wines and Angus” distinguished them from other wine clubs. Their award-winning artisanal estate wines, paired with ultra premium Angus beef, gave them a different angle. The cattle, pasture raised, grass fed and hormone free, are finished with a beer mash, grain and molasses, and dry aged, giving the meat a distinct “beefy” flavor. About a dozen steer are harvested each year, and their meat, from steaks to sausage, is sold through the Beef Club.
Jeff Freeland
Jeff Freeland, Oso Libre’s General Manager, brought four of their wines to a LA Wine Writers lunch at Cafe del Rey for a proper introduction, with Chef David Vilchez’s creations.
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The 2012 Vino d’Oro Chardonnay was supple, fruity and floral, with a creamy vanilla texture, and a spicy finish, which went well with the Smoked Fish Rillette on Endive.
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Next up, the 2012 Nativo Estate Primitivo, well balanced with briary red fruit and spice, dried herbs and coffee syrup, ending on a cedar-hued finish, was delicious with the Short Rib Flat Bread with Arugula Salad and Horseradish Cream.
Onto to the best wine of the group, the 2012 Carnal, a blend of Grenache, Syrah, and Petite Sirah in this vintage instead of the usual Mourvedre, it’s complex and nicely balanced with dense berry and cherry fruit, violets, and cocoa notes, alongside the Poached Salmon and Kale Salad.
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The finale, the 2011 Querida Cabernet Sauvignon, dense and structured with dark fruit, cinnamon and cardamom spice, dried mint and dark chocolate notes, displayed a tartness on the finish that was refreshing and revived the palate. This aspect really helped the wine accompany the Bruleed Fig on Brie dessert.
You can carve out a small amount of wine and beef for yourself, as Oso Libre has a tasting room onsite at the Winery, where you can sample whichever wines are not currently sold out. You can buy the wines at the tasting room or online, of course, only what is available at the moment.