The holidays are always full of celebration, and wine is an important part of the ritual. I had the opportunity to explore two Spanish wines that were a gift to the season, with balance and beauty in the glass, and so budget friendly. And although I didn’t get this review out during the year-end festivities, these two Spanish beauties have found a place in my wine cellar, so well composed and food-friendly. Part of my New Year’s resolutions is to revisit them again this year.
The Áster Crianza 2020 (SRP $25) is a project of the esteemed La Rioja Alta, Bodegas Áster, who has sought to produce the highest expression of Tempranillo in Ribera del Duero. Over thirty years ago, the best locations were identified for the perfect marriage of terroir and microclimate, landing in the Anguix (Burgos) subzone. In 1991, a vineyard was planted, and christened Bodegas Áster, after a Spanish flower that blooms at harvest. After selling the first several grape harvests, and discovering the quality of the vineyard and grapes warranted further investment, a state-of-the-art winery was built, committed to Tinto del País, the region’s name for Tempranillo.
The year 2020 has been officially classified as excellent, a result of cooler weather that allowed the grapes to ripen slowly. The best fruit from three higher-elevation vineyards contribute to the wine, with 18 days of fermentation and maceration, and then transferred to French oak barrels for two months, with weekly lees stirring. The wine was aged for 16 months, 75% in new French oak barrels, 25% in second-use French oak. This has yielded a well-balanced wine, 100% Tinta del País (Tempranillo), expressive in its dark fruit, sweet spice, herbal and licorice notes, smooth yet powerful in its structure, bright and juicy acidity, and a crushed stone minerality that reflects the vineyards. It’s fantastic with food, recommendations include everything from poultry to lamb, including fish stews, rice dishes and mature cheeses. I had a Cornish Game Hen, with roasted potatoes, green beans and golden beets, it complimented it all, so delicious.
The Les Crestes 2021 DOQ Priorat (SRP $40), produced by Mas Doix, is a blend, 80% Grenache, 10% Carignan, and 10% Syrah. Priorat is one of only two special designations in Spain, with the DOQ status reflecting the highest quality. The steep llicorella slate hills give rise to a very special wine profile, intense, full-bodied red wines from old-vine Garnacha and Cariñena. Mas Doix is a small family enterprise, organic viticulture with biodynamic practices, and vines lovingly tended by hand to express maximum Priorat terroir.
Les Crestes 2021 is a youthful Priorat, concentrated yet lively with juicy acidity and fine, round tannins. Mas Doix defines this wine as, “Elegance, freshness and balance. The expression of our Priorat”, and that is certainly the appeal, with a definite mineral and saline slant. The vintage of 2021 saw more rain and cooler temperatures, which slowly ripened the grapes. Hand-harvested and carefully sorted, fermentation takes place in stainless steel tanks, and then aged for 4-6 months in a combination of concrete tank, large oak vats and used French oak barrels, all designed to shine the spotlight on the fruit expression of the wine. Aromas and flavors of plum, raspberry, chocolate, sweet spice, anise, earth, smoked bacon and violets infuse a complex bouquet into this velvety, medium-plus bodied wine. A long persistent finish offers mineral and balsamic notes. A word of advice, decanting for at least 30 minutes will increase your enjoyment of this wine, time allowing for the full sensory appreciation of all that is going on in the glass.
Both of these wines overdeliver from their price points, and are so delightful with food, in fact I enjoyed them even more with a meal. Overall, Spanish wines have so much to offer, and the Áster Crianza 2020 and Les Crestes 2021 DOQ Priorat are definitely shining examples, continuing to give sensory pleasure all year long.
Links:
Bodegas Áster, https://www.riojalta.com/en/la-rioja-alta-group/wineries/aster/
Áster Crianza 2020, https://www.riojalta.com/media/I_Aster_Crianza_2020.pdf
Mas Doix, https://masdoix.com/en/mas-doix/
Les Crestes 2021 DOQ Priorat, https://masdoix.com/wp-content/uploads/2022/01/Les-Crestes-2021-Mas-Doix-ENGL.pdf
Links:
Bodegas Áster, https://www.riojalta.com/en/la-rioja-alta-group/wineries/aster/
Áster Crianza 2020, https://www.riojalta.com/media/I_Aster_Crianza_2020.pdf
Mas Doix, https://masdoix.com/en/mas-doix/
Les Crestes 2021 DOQ Priorat, https://masdoix.com/wp-content/uploads/2022/01/Les-Crestes-2021-Mas-Doix-ENGL.pdf