What happens when two superstar grapes are brought together by two legendary wine producers from different continents? Enchanting wines are made, powerful and luscious, sophisticated and aromatic, with mouth-filling body and flavors, and a bonus, great value to boot.
Bodegas CARO, a joint venture of France’s esteemed Domaines Barons de Rothschild (Lafite) and Argentina’s premier pioneer Bodegas Catena, really fulfills their mission: to blend two wine cultures and create a special expression of Argentina’s terroir. The name CARO is an amalgam of the two, CAtena and ROthschild, but the blend goes beyond the superficial. Bodega Catena Zapata, under founder Nicolas Catena, pioneered the planting of Malbec in the Andean foothills of Mendoza. The Catena family bring their expertise with the Malbec grape and where it thrives best to the partnership. Domaines Barons de Rothschild (Lafite) adds their legendary expertise with Cabernet Sauvignon and centuries-old art of blending to the brand. Together, CARO showcases the two signature grapes of each producer with the cultural influences of both countries. The CARO project began in 1999, and in the 21 years since, has demonstrated that blending Cabernet Sauvignon with Malbec is a plus, it’s truly the best of both worlds, where the sum of the parts is greater than the whole.
In a recent Zoom seminar with Philippe Rolet, Estate Manager of Bodegas CARO, I had the opportunity to sample three of the five wines they produce. Rolet, although a relative newcomer to the brand, is passionate about the quality and potential that this association holds. Combining the unique expression of Argentinean Malbec with the blending expertise forged in Bordeaux, there is a richness to the wines, refined and made more complex by the art of blending.
Great care is taken in CARO winemaking, all grapes are hand-harvested, and gently handled throughout the vinification process. Rolet finds that Malbec grapes grown at higher elevations have better acidity, and consequently are fresher. The thicker skins that are produced at these altitudes make for highly concentrated and flavorful grapes, yielding voluptuous wines. Since Malbec is full-bodied, lively and fruity, the structure and refined character of Cabernet Sauvignon compliments and enhances the final wine.
Rolet has found that blending CARO wines varies according to the weather. There are three types of vintages in Mendoza, the most common is hot and dry, followed by cold and dry, and only once in a decade, cold and wet due to Niña weather patterns off the Pacific Ocean. This determines the blend percentages of the grapes; Malbec is featured in the hotter vintages with a higher percentage, Cabernet Sauvignon makes up more of the blend in colder years. This gives CARO wines a distinctive signature each year, a snapshot of the harvest and conditions the vintage represents.
And although Rolet believes that Cabernet Sauvignon is a good fit for Malbec blends, he’s found that Cabernet Franc is performing well in Argentina, and will be a great newcomer to possible future blends.
The wines:
Bodegas CARO Aruma Malbec 2018 (SRP $15) - 100% Malbec, this unoaked wine unfurls with aromas of plum, red fruit, and violets. Fruit forward, it’s very different from any Malbec I’ve tasted before, with no oak influences, it’s fresh and balanced, and a chance to experience Malbec in its purest form. “ARUMA” means “night” in the native Indian language of Mendoza, and symbolizes the extreme darkness and pure mountain air of Andean nights, stamping the wine with the authentic character of the region. Although meant to be drunk young, I found the wine needs time to really blossom in the glass, the velvety plumpness such a treat for the patient.
Bodegas CARO Amancaya Reserve Red Blend 2017 (SRP $20) - a blend of 72% Malbec and 28% Cabernet Sauvignon, this deeper-colored wine embraces red fruit and fig, with white floral and spice notes. It is elegant and silky, juicy and deeper in complexity, with subtle texture, maybe from the aging process which entails 12 months of 50% in concrete vats and the other half in French oak barrels. The name “Amancaya” comes from a mountain flower that grows in the Andes, and this cuvée reflects the high altitude vineyards from where it comes, powerful yet balanced. Again, decanting or allowing time for the wine to reach its full potential is really important, this is an incredible deal for such an elegant wine.
Bodegas CARO 2017 (SRP $65) - only made in the best vintages, this 74% Malbec and 26% Cabernet Sauvignon blend is stunning but oh so young! Powerful and intense, aromas of raspberry, violets, pepper, clove and dark chocolate flow into a ripe yet structured palate, so smooth yet bright with acidity. After blending, the wine is aged in the best barrels from Bordeaux for 18 months, which is just the start, CARO has a long life ahead of it. Decanting this wine is a must, and not just for an hour, but maybe earlier in the day. That may seem excessive but I promise you will be richly rewarded, the evolution in the glass every 15 minutes is amazing, and demonstrates how world class CARO is.
CARO wines are widely available in the United States, and represent great value and quality. Taste the best of the Old World and the New World in each bottle, with every vintage bringing a new expression of this powerful collaboration.