Out of the inferno and into the wine, Ramona Valley and adjacent Highland Valley is poised to become the next wine region of note in California.  As wildfires with 80 foot flames consumed the traditional avocado and citrus crops in this area of San Diego County in 2007, there was a rush to replant with a new view to the future, a wine-centric vista of vineyards and olives.  Do-it-yourselfers are trailblazing Ramona’s wine industry, a group of dreamers, retirees, and visionaries that see the potential, mostly self-taught and fueled by a passion for wine.  Many married couples, inspired by the wines of Italy while on vacation, dove into winemaking on a smaller scale, planting the varietals that they loved to drink.  Others experimented with what works best in this arid environment, often referred to as the “Valley of the Sun”.  In any case, winemaking is gaining traction here, supported by locals who participate in wine clubs, and wineries that often sell out of their small production before the next vintage is bottled.    

The view from Milagro Vineyards

Among the vines at Altipiano Vineyard

Ramona Valley has undergone many agricultural incarnations over the past century, from the “Turkey Capital of the World”, dairies, and chicken egg production, to avocados and citrus farms, and now morphing into a rapidly growing wine grape region.  Part of the broader South Coast AVA that encompasses five counties in Southern California, it was recognized as its own AVA in 2006.  Thirty-six wineries and more than eighty commercial vineyards populate the Valley, where soils, microclimates and elevation define its potential, and proximity to the Pacific Ocean and Colorado Desert bring a unique mix of factors to the vineyards.  Hills dotted with giant boulders mark the landscape of Ramona Valley, almost a “Flintstones” terrain, with narrow roads winding their way to many of the hillside wineries.  In this seemingly stark landscape, wine growing and making has taken root, infusing the region with an energy and optimism for what the future holds.

Vineyard Grant James vineyards

Brunello clusters at Altipiano

Grenache Blanc grapes at Domaine Artefact

Ramona Valley is perfect for wine grape growing, a Mediterranean climate with a 30 degree drop in night-time temperatures that allows perfect ripeness and refreshing acidity to develop in the clusters.  The West Side is cooler, a place where Bordeaux varietals thrive, the familiar Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot, Petit Verdot, Cabernet Franc, and Sauvignon Blanc, along with Grenache and Sangiovese.  The warmer East Side is a better fit for Syrah, Zinfandel, Petite Sirah, and some Sauvignon Blanc.  Sangiovese is the star here, with the Grosso clone, more commonly known as Brunello, and Rhône grapes Syrah and Petite Sirah are coming on strong.  And while Ramona Valley is primarily red wine country, there are several white wines made here, Albariño, Viognier, and Sauvignon Blanc, to mention a few.

Domaine Artefact vineyards

Vineyard Grant James vineyard

Ravaged by mega wildfires in 2007 and 2003, like a phoenix, Ramona’s wine country has arisen from the ashes, better and stronger than before.  But it came at a cost, 2007’s Witch Creek and Guejito Fires raged for nearly a month, destroying lives and dreams along the way, with no one left untouched by the flames.  But in the aftermath, replanted vineyards gave a fresh start to the infant winegrowing industry, and a renewed spirit of innovation took root.  It takes persistence and dedication to grow grapes and make wine here.  Besides fire, water is a challenge in Ramona, so thoughtful planting and limited production can make a little go a long way.  Which adds to the challenge for Ramona Valley winemakers, to buy or grow enough Ramona Valley fruit to make a Ramona Valley AVA wine.  To have the designation on the bottle, 75% of the fruit must come from Ramona Valley, and 25% can come from in and outside of San Diego County.  Which is why most Ramona Valley/Highland Valley wineries make several wines using purchased fruit from many different AVAs throughout California to flesh out their lineup.

With a built-in, enthusiastic wine drinking population just 45 minutes southwest in San Diego, Ramona Valley is often called “The Heart of San Diego’s Wine Country”.  Open for wine tasting Friday through Sunday, it’s a laid-back and social experience, often with the owners/winemakers pouring the wines.  Recently, I traveled to Ramona Valley as a guest of the Ramona Valley Winery Association, visiting several wineries and talking with winemakers about their past, present, and future aspirations.  It’s a region working hard to establish its identity, discovering its strengths and refining them, teetering on the precipice of being discovered, while still building their brand.

 Day One - Ramona Valley Wineries

Teri Kerns with her Estate Tannat and new rescue dog

Ramona Ranch Vineyard & Winery is a labor of love for Teri Kerns and Micole Moore, whose desire for a rural lifestyle led them to Ramona in 2004, purchasing 10 acres of land initially for chickens and horses.  Inspired by the fledgling Ramona Valley Vineyard Association (RVVA), they planted 2-1/2 acres of vines, and celebrated the newly minted Ramona AVA in 2006.  Tinkering with winemaking, Kerns and Moore won the largest amateur wine competition in the world in 2010, conducted by The Winemaker Magazine, with a Zinfandel made from neighboring Hatfield Creek Vineyards’ fruit.  Realizing they might be onto something, they made it official, going commercial shortly after, with a three year journey into the labyrinth of required paperwork including a last minute name change, from Blackjack Vineyard to the now so appropriate Ramona Ranch.  As their vineyard experience grew, Kerns and Moore gravitated to sustainable viticulture, seeking to be in balance with nature.  Although it took five years to achieve, Kerns still thinks it is worth it in the long haul, “it’s arduous, time-consuming, but meaningful.”  Today, Ramona Ranch is San Diego County’s only certified sustainable winery, beginning with the 2017 vintage.

Producing several wines, Moore, the principal winemaker, likes fuller-bodied wines that go well with food, and oak is an important part of their wine program, for the aromatics and flavor it brings.  Their experiment is reflected in the newly released Viognier, fermented and aged in neutral oak, which gives texture to the wine.  Kerns is excited for their new addition, “They call Viognier the red wine drinker’s white wine, because it’s a little thicker, in our case, it’s done with oak.  It stands up to a heavier food dish, and when it’s hot like this, you may want to drink a white wine.”  Continuing to pick up awards along their journey, the Estate Tannat is a consistent winner.  Ramona Ranch is a small production winery, making 4,000 cases annually, with an active wine club that snaps up many of the releases before they even make it to the public.  Yet, this is a very hands-on winery, with Moore doing most of the construction, maintenance, and winemaking, as Kerns toggles the business, paperwork, and involvement with the AVA association, while keeping her full-time day job.  She notes, “It’s very interesting to be on the ground floor, starting a wine region, and doing it really with a lot of persistence.”  Chances are, Kerns and Moore wouldn’t change a thing.

Original winery is now used for weddings and special events

Milagro Farms Vineyards & Winery is a joint venture of four families, offering more than estate grown wines.  The 110-acre property boasts fruit and nut orchards, an organic farm and private event site, expanding into a wedding destination in a big way in the past few years.  The original owners, Kit and Karen Sickels bought the property in 2001 for fun, to see what they could do with it.  Vineyards soon followed, and renowned local winemaker Jim Hart made their wines.  Today, eleven different varietals are grown, from which three white, one rosé, five red, and two dessert wines are made by Mexico’s premier winemaker, Hugo d’Acosta.  The Sangiovese Rosé is a standout, in addition to the Barbera, and the unusual Sweet Vermouth, made with Aleatico and herbs, perfect for cocktails or drunk neat.

Vineyard Grant James is the culmination of a dream for owner/winemaker Susanne Sapier and her husband, Jacques.  Named for Susanne’s son, Grant, and her father, James, the winery has been producing wine for almost a decade, earning the #2 spot on Travel & Leisure’s Top Vineyards of the US 2017 for its gracious hospitality, scenic outdoor tasting patio, and people pleasing wines.  Sapier makes a large variety of wines, Viognier to Nebbiolo, from 7-1/2 acres of vineyards planted on nine scenic hillside acres.  The Viognier and Rosé of Syrah are perfect hot weather quenchers.  With an emphasis on the experience of wine tasting, Susanne and Jacques, along with her small staff, are always the perfect hosts, serving delightful white and red Sangria on hot summer days, organizing monthly Cheeses from the Cave tastings, and summer Dinner & Wine feasts cooked by local chefs.

Ian Vaux and Laurie Wagner of Turtle Rock Ridge Winery

Turtle Rock Ridge Vineyard Winery literally arose from the ashes of the 2007 Witch Creek wildfire.  Starting from scratch, Laurie Wagner and Ian Vaux planted wine grape varietals whose wines they enjoyed.  Trips to Europe defined which wines they wanted to make, Zinfandel, Merlot, Barbera, Cabernet Sauvignon, Cabernet Franc, and Sangiovese Grosso (Brunello) made the cut, a “plant what you like” approach.  Wagner discovered she liked making wine, starting in 2008, and worked to refine her skills over the next few years, producing bold full-bodied red wines.  In 2012, Turtle Rock Ridge opened their tasting room, more of an outdoor wine garden with a homey feel, where you can taste wine in a comfortable setting, with the definitive Turtle Rock on the ridge framing the views.  In fact, Wagner stated, “Turtle Rock is our mascot, slow and steady”, a symbol of their winemaking journey, but also one that she feels helps sell their wines.  Currently there are 3,000 vines on the property, from which the reds are made, in addition to some purchased fruit.  Expanding their repertoire, and making 2,500 cases annually, Wagner makes three white wines from Santa Barbara County fruit, five red wines, and one dessert wine.  The wine names reflect the happy ambiance of their tasting room, “Hello Sunshine”, “Hello Beautiful”, and “Hello Therapy” just a few.  Their award-winning “Hello Gorgeous”, a signature blend of Merlot, Cabernet Sauvignon, and Sangiovese, and “Chocolate Turtle” fortified dessert wine are delightful, in addition to “Ciao” their Sangiovese “Brunello” wine.  Wagner feels that Sangiovese is a good choice for Ramona Valley, a distinction that sets the region apart, as no other wine region in the US is known for successfully growing Sangiovese.

Hatfield Creek Vineyards was established in 2006, as a way for Elaine Lyttleton to support her retirement.  A turn of fate, Lyttleton and her husband, Norm Case, were searching for rental income property, took a wrong turn, and ended up in Ramona.  When Ramona became an AVA shortly after, Case asked Lyttleton, “Maybe you want to plant some grapes?”  Planting three acres of the six acre property to Zinfandel and Petite Sirah, Lyttleton got caught up in all things wine, becoming a winemaker, and promoting Ramona Valley wineries.  Named for Hatfield Creek that runs along the back of the winery, Hatfield Creek produces eight wines in total, all with the Ramona Valley AVA designation, a sparkling wine, Rosé of Estate Zinfandel and Muscat, five red wines, and one dessert wine, the notable ”Estate Bonbon”, a blend of Zinfandel and Petite Sirah.  I sampled the wines alongside a fabulous dinner at the Par Lounge in the San Vicente Resort.  Chef Ben Peterson created a three course meal, with a phenomenal palate cleanser in between, on the menu, White Corn Veloute Soup topped with a Corn Fritter, Wagyu Flatiron Steak, and Lemon Panna Cotta dessert.  When visiting the tasting room, check out the museum where Indian artifacts discovered on the property are displayed.

Day Two - Highland Valley Wineries

The just bottled Albariño hasn't had time for its label to be attached

Espinosa Vineyards arose from the ashes of the 2007 Witch Creek-Guejito wildfires that swept through the area, which destroyed everything on the property.  Although not a winery before the fire, there was history here.  Over 125 years ago, vineyards were planted and a commercial winery built in 1936, which were both abandoned in the 1950’s.  Noelle and Roberto Espinosa, both microbiologists, decided to take advantage of the fresh start offered by the fire’s destruction, and planted vines in 2008, here in the Highland Valley area of the AVA.  Focusing on Spanish varietals, such as Tempranillo, Monastrell, Albariño, and Garnacha Blanca, the Espinosas planted 7-8 wine grape varieties on four acres.  They’ve created a boutique winery, whose small production, 100% estate grown wines, and other wines made with purchased fruit, are only available onsite.  Six wines are currently available, Sauvignon Blanc, Albariño, Rosado, Pinot Noir, Grenache, and Syrah, with the Albariño the most popular in the tasting room, which is a lovely outdoor terrace with scenic views.

Denise and Peter Clarke of Altipiano

Brunello cluster in Altipiano vineyard

Altipiano Vineyard & Winery is Denise Clarke’s symphony of wine, with enough drama to give staccato to the story.  Over twenty years ago, Clarke and her husband, Peter, bought this five acre property in Highland Valley, home to a 30-year-old avocado grove at the time, without visions of vineyards in their heads.  Inspired by a trip to Tuscany in 2007, they dreamed of recreating the stunning Brunello wines they had tasted.  When the wildfires engulfed much of the property and surrounding neighborhood later that year, the Clarkes decided to replace the dead avocado trees with grape vines, so 2-1/2 acres became home to the Brunello Sangiovese Grosso clone, Barbera, Cabernet Sauvignon, and Petite Sirah.  Clarke had a winemaker in the beginning, but then was thrown into the deep end in 2012, with a crash course in winemaking.  Afterwards, she reached out to people who made wine that she trusted, and started the journey that has led to today.  Her love affair with music has shaped her wine business, her motto “The Music of Wine” defines Altipiano’s philosophy.  Clarke says, “Wine is music.  For me, the growing season is the orchestra, the grapes are the instruments, I’m not the conductor because Mother Nature is the conductor, it’s going to tell you exactly which way it wants the tempo to go.”   When asked what specific pieces of music correlate to the stages of the growing season, Clarke mused, “When you start getting budbreak, it reminds me of Mozart, like the flute, when it’s harvest, it’s Beethoven.”  

Denise Clarke is known for her Super Tuscan style wines, and love of oak barrels

A turning point came for Altipiano’s wines when Clarke discovered the impact of oak on a single varietal, inspired by a taste of Syrah at a Garagiste Festival that had been in several different oak barrels.  A lightbulb went off, and she returned home to experiment with different oaks by different coopers, Pennsylvania, Missouri, Kentucky, and Hungarian, thinking outside the box of just French oak barrels.  Clarke was a convert, “Once the wine gets into that oak, it’s a beautiful marriage made in heaven.”  And although she likes what oak brings to the wine, she’s careful not to overoak.  For Altipiano’s wines, Clarke makes what she likes to drink, “I like big aromatics, I like big mouthfeel, I love structure.  But more importantly, the wine needs to tell a story, every year that wine is going to tell you a story.”  Case in point, tasting the 2015 Sangiovese alongside the 2016 Estate Reserve Sangiovese, two very different wines.  In 2015, Clarke lost three-quarters of her estate Brunello to crazy weather, and was forced to buy fruit from her neighbor down the road, blended with some estate Barbera.  She aged it in American, French and Hungarian oak, which resulted in a complex wine, riper fruit and earthy notes, that is ready to drink.  The 2016 is 100% estate grown fruit, aged in Kentucky and French oak, a higher-toned wine that needs time to blossom.  In addition to her estate fruit, Clarke purchases fruit from vineyards that she admires, from Napa to Amador County, producing six red wines and one white, with the Sangiovese consistently an award winner.

Mark and Lynn Robinson of Domaine Artefact

Domaine Artefact is a passion project for Lynn and Mark Robinson, born out of a lifetime of traveling and collecting wine from around the world.  Two weeks before the massive wildfires of 2007, they bought thirty acres in Highland Valley, and designated 20 acres for vineyards and 10 for their five horses and dream home.  But the entire property was burned over, including the 1,000 grapefruit trees they had hoped to keep as they gradually planted vineyards.  Two years of cleanup ensued, and in 2010, the first wine grapes were planted, leading to a slow ramp up of their brand.  With the help of family and friends, twelve different varietals were planted, six white and six red, and 2014 was their first estate harvest.  Inspired by the wines of France’s Rhône Valley, they planted 70% red and 30% white varietals, from the all-star list of Rhône grapes: Viognier, Grenache Blanc, Marsanne, Roussanne, Clairette Blanche, and Picpoul Blanc for the whites, Grenache, Syrah, Carignan, Counoise, Mourvedre, Petite Sirah for the reds.  In the process of planting the vineyards, they uncovered Indian artifiacts and admired lots of native birds among the vines, hence the name with a French twist, and a different bird on each label.

Although they enjoyed drinking wine, there was a lot to learn about rootstocks, soils, and winemaking.  Lynn and Mark dove deep, studying soils, clones, and winemaking, as Lynn notes “I’m kind of a keep moving forward shark girl and Mark is slower, a let’s figure this out guy.”  And although both still go to a day job, they’ve accomplished a lot in a relatively short time.  The tasting room opened in 2015, and right out of the gate, the 2016 Les Beaux Blancs white wine blend won a Gold medal in the Sunset International Wine Competition and a Silver medal at the San Francisco International Wine Competition.  

Encouraged that they were on the right track, they continue to tinker and improve their vineyards, with Mark experimenting with different clones for layers of flavor, especially with Syrah.  Their lineup of wines reflect their different personalities, Lynn prefers lighter-style wines, a confirmed white wine lover, while Mark loves the big, fuller-bodied reds, yet both have come together in pursuit of crafting the best wines possible from their land.  Twelve wines flesh out their current offerings, five whites, one rosé, five red wines, and one dessert wine, with several standouts.  The “Les Beaux Blancs”, a blend of Grenache Blanc, Viognier, Marsanne, and Roussanne is a crowd-pleaser, a full-bodied, aromatic white with structure and a luscious finish, the 2017 again winning awards and accolades.  The “Les Printemps”, a Grenache Rosé, is very much a Provencal style rosé, dry and mineral, and the Estate Grenache, beautifully balanced.  As Lynn sung its praises, “I love Grenache, this is my go to red wine.  I drink it all year round, and it goes great with roast chicken, it goes great with anything that I would typically look for in a Pinot Noir.”  Two GSM wines are made in a Chateauneuf-du-Pape style, “As The Crow Flies” and “Rincon Del Diablo”, one Grenache dominant, the other Syrah.  Domaine Artefact is a small production winery, making 1,300 cases annually.  Although the winery was born out of challenging times, Lynn and Mark’s dream is still alive.  As Mark noted, “It has altered our lives so much, we’ve met so many wonderful people, it’s a great share culture”.

Frank, Rosa, and Gerry Cordiano

Cordiano Winery is one of the largest in the region, technically in Highland Valley, just outside the Ramona Valley AVA.  Gerardo “Gerry” Cordiano, is considered a pioneer of winemaking in the area, a first generation Italian immigrant who came with a dream, yet came to it later in life.  Always wanting to make wine, Cordiano made his money with a chain of pizzerias in New Orleans, and then came to the San Diego area, opening several Italian restaurants.  Cordiano bought this property in 1991, and slowly planted vineyards, learning what worked well in this rocky region.  Almost a decade later, Cordiano sold his restaurants and began producing wine, and in 2008, he officially opened to the public, combining his three loves, wine, pizza, and family, into a popular weekend destination.  A bustling outdoor patio restaurant, with incredible views, offers an assortment of pastas and pizzas, the pizza dough recipe one that Gerry perfected as a young man in his first job in upstate New York.

Gerry and Frank Cordiano

Today, Cordiano makes almost 5,000 cases annually from 20 acres of estate vineyards and purchased fruit, offering a remarkable variety of wines, thirteen reds, four whites, and five sweet wines.  Gerry has handed more of the day to day operations to his children, Frank, Joe, and Jennifer, yet continues to be the gracious host, along with his wife, Rosa, welcoming wine lovers to their little piece of heaven.  Cordiano believes in the potential of Ramona Valley and its adjacent areas, stating “This region will produce a bottle of wine that, in my humble opinion, will be far superior to any wine that you can produce up North, Napa included.”  He believes that the harsh soils and intense sun produce concentrated berries, and in the hands of a talented winemaker, the result is a “more intense sensation of minerals, and flavor itself.”  Although persistent drought and lack of water is a downside, Cordiano believes that planting wine grapes that do well in these conditions, such as Tempranillo, Sangiovese, Syrah, and Cabernet Sauvignon, will yield “red wines of great quality” with consistent vintages.  And in his crystal ball, looking into the future, he sees big wineries coming to the region, and an explosion of business and visitors to follow.  Cordiano has positioned himself as a visionary from the beginning, planting his roots deep, and together with his family, plans to be a vital part of the region for generations to come.

The Ramona Valley Vineyard Association and the Ramona Valley Winery Association are focused on developing Ramona Valley into a world-class wine destination.  The breakthrough moment happened in 2013, when the San Diego Boutique Winery Ordinance passed, allowing many local wineries to pour wines at their properties and tasting rooms, bypassing the obstacles presented by numerous governmental agencies and endless red tape.  The wine industry is rapidly expanding, albeit with a few hiccups along the way, with some local resistance to expansion and changing Ramona’s small town charm.  The many murals that adorn the exteriors of several downtown Ramona businesses beckon tourists to stop and explore.  Known as the Ramona H.E.A.R.T. Mural Project, an acronym which stands for "H" History and Hiking, "E" Equine, "A" Arts, Antiques, and Agriculture, "R" scenic Rural views, and "T" Tasting Fine Wines, these murals define Ramona's charms.  Many new restaurants are popping up, with a beer and wine-centric menu, but more lodging is needed to support wine tourism.  Currently, one of the best options is the Riviera Oaks Resort & Racquet Club, a home away from home, one and two bedroom resort suites with a fully equipped kitchen and fireplace. Active sports such as tennis and golf, nearby hiking trails, pools and jacuzzis, a sauna, and a day spa offering massages and wraps make this a family-friendly resort with something for everyone.

Reds White and Brews offers the opportunity to taste many of the Ramona Valley wines and San Diego County beers in one place.  Recently renovated with a outdoor space, it’s a welcoming spot, where you can bring food and hang out with family and friends.

Ramona Family Naturals is an organic market but also has a deli that serves sandwiches, salads, and dessert, all made from some of the best fruits, vegetables, and meats grown in the Ramona Valley.  This is a great place to pack a picnic to enjoy while wine tasting.

Marinade on Main serves farm to table menus, with the focus on area farms, for breakfast, lunch, dinner, and weekend brunch, along with many of the local wines and beer.

The view from the deck at The Par Lounge

The Par Lounge at San Vicente Resort, within the San Diego Country Estates, attracts locals and tourists alike, with their lively bar and good food, live music and views across the golf course, the adjacent The Oaks Grille restaurant offers a more extensive menu for breakfast, dinner, and weekend brunch.

On the cusp of exploding into a wine country destination, with more money, wineries and development on the horizon, Ramona Valley’s future looks bright.