The story of Lodi centers on the heritage vineyards upon which a wine industry was built, and the winegrape growers that evolved into winemakers.  “Old vines” means something different in Lodi, generally referring to over 100-year-old vineyards of Zinfandel, Carignane, and Cinsault.  Thanks to the Lodi Winegrape Commission, I had the privilege of visiting a few of the pivotal vineyards and several winegrowers/winemakers that are defining the future for Lodi wine.

Historic Vineyards:

Bechthold Vineyard

These ancient Cinsault vines, planted on 25 acres in 1886, make up one of the most famous old vine vineyards in Lodi, the Bechthold Vineyard.  Believed to be the world’s oldest Cinsault vineyard, the expressive fruit is in demand, prized and sought after by many winemakers.  But it wasn’t always so, for the first century, the grapes were thought to be Black Malvoisie, and sold as a blending grape for a low price.  Over a decade ago, DNA testing at UC Davis correctly identified the vines as Cinsault, and the vineyard was saved due to huge demand from winemakers, the grapes selling for 10 times more.  Currently farmed by the Phillips Family, lots of care has been lavished upon the vines, head-trained and organically dry farmed, and it’s come back to life.  The wines produced, such as the Michael David Ancient Vine Cinsault, are perfumed and elegant, with bright red fruit (strawberry, raspberry, cherry, pomegranate), and spice.

Bishofberger Vineyard

Bob Bishofberger and Michael Phillips

Three acres of Carignane, planted in 1936, are tended by winegrower Bob Bishofberger, and used in Michael David and Klouda’s small production of Carignane wine.  Carignane seems to get better with vine age, making vivid, textured wines of exuberant fruit (strawberry, cranberry, raspberry), floral with moderate tannin and good acidity, yet full bodied.  Although once widely planted in California, plantings of Carignane have fallen dramatically, being replaced by more fashionable varietals such as Cabernet Sauvignon.

Marian’s Vineyard

(L-R) Bruce Fry and Stuart Spencer

For winegrower Bruce Fry, these old Zinfandel vines, planted in 1901 on his Mohr-Fry Ranches, are very special.  “With these old vines, viticulturally, you don’t have to do a lot to them, they know what to do, they’ve been here a long time, we just give them enough water and fertilizer, keep them happy and growing, and let Mother Nature do the rest.”    For winemaker Stuart Spencer of St. Amant Winery, he appreciates the wines he makes from them, “For me, the own-rooted gives a distinct character, the rootstocks on the old vines tend to bring in a different kind of character to the wines.  Since it’s less vigorous and less productive, it tends to have more fruit-driven character in the fruit compared to grafted vines”.  Considered the “Mother of all Zins”, this fruit makes rich, spicy, and elegant wines, like the St. Amant Marian's Vineyard Old Vine Zinfandel.  Unfortunately, economic concerns threaten many of these old vine Zinfandel vineyards, since labor costs and smaller crops have pressured many farmers to rip them out, as Fry noted, “It doesn’t make economic sense to keep it in the ground for 2.5-3 tons per acre, it’s unfortunate but it’s the reality that we face.”  For Spencer, “My goal as a winemaker is to champion the cause of these things and bring more customers to the table, to appreciate what these wines have, that they’re part of California’s wine grape history.  Kevin Phillips of Michael David calls it a living history, these vines were around before the car was invented, before we were flying, before World War I and II, and they’re still here today, there is an importance to keeping them.”

Lot 13 Vineyard

Michael McCay with fruit from Lot 13 Vineyard

McCay is proud of his Old Vine Zinfandel in Lot 13 Vineyard

Planted in 1915, 95% of these original old vine Zinfandel vines are still producing fruit today.  Surrounded on three sides by the Mokelumne River, the vines are self-regulating, and don’t need a lot of intervention.  Michael McCay of McCay Cellars currently farms this vineyard, “My goal is to stay out of the vineyard as much as I can, I farm by Lodi Rules and Lodi Native protocol.”  McCay uses the fruit in his Faith Lot 13 Zinfandel and Tempranillo wines.

Rauser Vineyard

Steve Felton with his Klinker Brick Carignane

These deep sandy loam soils are the secret of long life for the Carignane vines planted here in 1907, “allowing the vine’s roots to grow down deep, and giving them resistance to nematodes and phylloxera”, according to Steve Felton of Klinker Brick Winery, who makes wine from its fruit.  Felton said, “The Carignane makes such great wine, we decided to replant missing vines, we use the younger plants for the Rosé, and the older ones for the red.”  The wines made from this fruit are balanced and structured, earthy with a beautiful cherry fragrance, and an herbal hint.  Klinker Brick makes a fascinating Rosé of Carignane, a blend of Carignane, Grenache, Syrah, and Mourvedre called Bricks & Roses, and a Carignane red wine from these grapes.

Lizzy James Vineyard

Kyle Lerner of Harney Lane Winery & Vineyards

Planted in 1904, these old vine Zinfandel vines revel in soils that translate so well to the grapes.  Kyle Lerner, manager for Harney Lane Winery & Vineyards, observes, “It’s the ultimate sand box, my father-in-law always said sandy loam and Zinfandel were the cat’s meow.”  In fact, it runs 94 feet deep, before hitting a layer of clay, allowing the roots to reach for what they need.  Before the Lerner/Mettler family bought it 15 years ago, the vineyard had been neglected, and younger vines were interplanted where the older ones had died off.  With some TLC, and this year’s record rainfall, the vines have come back, and according to Lerner, “the flavors from the fruit were some of the best I tasted to date.”

Up next, a closer look at some of the founding families and new winemakers that are reinventing what Lodi wine is all about, Lodi Wine Country, Winegrowers and Winemakers Focused on the Future.