If you think Bordeaux wine is all about the elite Châteaux and iconic labels, it’s time to acquaint yourself with Crus Bourgeois. Expressive and delicious, these wines have character and structure, and display that sense of “somewhereness” that the French call terroir. Well-balanced, with medium body and tannins, good acidity and moderate alcohol, these wines are very food-friendly, and priced for everyday drinking. If you’ve never heard of Crus Bourgeois, here’s an introduction to wines that you’ll want to stock up on, perfect for all seasons and all reasons.
The term, Crus Bourgeois, actually dates back to the Middle Ages, when the residents (bourgeois) of the town (bourg) of Bordeaux acquired the finest properties in the region, earning the resulting wines this designation. After the official Classification of 1855, which ranked the best of Bordeaux wine in importance from first to fifth growths (crus), many other high quality châteaux wines were not included, which were then recognized as Crus Bourgeois of eight different appellations. Today, between 240 to 260 properties produce about 32% of the Médoc’s wine, with an evolving classification of individual wines on an annual basis. Every year, each Chateau’s wine is reviewed and blind tasted for quality, then labeled with a quality assurance sticker and QR code that guarantees the wine’s quality and protects the consumer against counterfeit wines. And for all of this quality and history, the wines are modestly priced, averaging about $25 a bottle, a fabulous deal for really great wine.
Tasting two wines from the Crus Bourgeois du Médoc, one from Haut-Médoc and the other from Moulis, I was impressed with their quality and differences in style. And amazingly, both wines have a SRP of $17!
The Château Tour Saint Joseph AOC Haut-Médoc 2014 was smooth and round, a blend of 50% Merlot, 45% Cabernet Sauvignon, and 5% Cabernet Franc swirled with a nose of sweet fruit, earthy underbrush, and toasted oak notes, coming from the use of new oak barrels. Jammy black fruit, tobacco and clove highlights, with a generous mouthfeel, ripe tannins, and long finish, it is delightful and delicious.
The Château LaLaudey AOC Moulis-en-Médoc 2016 is more complex, blending 59% Cabernet Sauvignon, 34% Merlot, 2% Cabernet Franc, and 5% Petit Verdot into an elegant cloak of black fruit, tobacco, spice and licorice. It’s an exciting wine with great structure, perfect balance, tingly tannins and a long finish. A standout, receiving several awards within Bordeaux, it’s ready to drink now but will continue to evolve and improve over the next several years.
The enigma of Bordeaux wine is that there is room for everyone in the wine marketplace, embracing that special something that defines Bordeaux, whose aromas and flavors can never be mistaken for any other region. Fairly priced, Cru Bourgeois Bordeaux offers quality, character, and style in a wine that can be enjoyed on a daily basis, truly a wine of the people!