Aldo and Paolo Rametta, an Italian Family Wine Project Shines the Spotlight on the Wines of Romagna

(L-R) Paolo and Aldo Rametta in Los Angeles

Aldo and Paolo Rametta, an Italian Family Wine Project Shines the Spotlight on the Wines of Romagna
June 9, 2024

The Italian region of Emilia Romagna is legendary for its gastronomic delights, the home of Parmigiana Reggiano, Modena Balsamic Vinegar, Parma Prosciutto, and Bolognese pasta sauce, to name a few. Yet not everyone is familiar with the wines of the region, which are so very important to the cuisine. Most famous for its fizzy Lambrusco red wines, the wine production is almost evenly split between white and red varieties, primarily those of Trebbiano, Lambrusco and Sangiovese. Often referred to in the hyphenate Emilia-Romagna, each region has its own identity; Emilia in the west with lighter and dry wines, Romagna on the eastern coast with richer and full-bodied wines. The wines of Romagna are getting more notice, especially since their Romagna Sangiovese is a different clone and style from the well-known Tuscan Sangiovese wines. It’s here that the story of the Rametta Brothers, Aldo and Paolo, comes into focus.

(L-R) Paolo and Aldo Rametta in the vineyard, Courtesy of Poggio della Dogana

(L-R) Paolo and Aldo Rametta in the cellar, Courtesy of Ronchi di Castelluccio

Aldo and Paolo Rametta share a passion for the environment, wine and their native Romagna. Born in New Orleans and educated overseas, the Rametta brothers became entrepreneurs in renewable energy, but wanted to work together on another project that spoke deeply to them, wine. In 2016, Paolo discovered the Poggio della Dogana estate, already producing wine for a cooperative. Assisted by their agronomist/oenologist Francesco Boldrini, who identified the higher elevation vineyards as a site for single vineyard cru wines, the Rametta brothers purchased the estate. Joined by their wives, Angela and Simona, plus sommelier/restauranteur Fabio Castellucci, the Ramettas united together in a family wine project. In 2020, they added the Ronchi di Castelluccio estate to the mix, determined to showcase the fine wines being made in Romagna. Ronchi di Castelluccio, founded in the 1970’s by film director Gian Vittorio Baldi, changed Romagna’s wine identity. Ronchi is Italian for “crus” and was the first quality wine project in Romagna, focused on clonal selection and single vineyard expression.

The estate, Courtesy of Poggio della Dogana

Castrocaro, Courtesy of Poggio della Dogana

Brisighella, Courtesy of Poggio della Dogana

All nine wines, Courtesy of Poggio della Dogana

Poggio della Dogana is composed of two different vineyard sites, several miles apart, but still at higher elevations. It was named after the ancient customs post between the border between Papal Romagna and the Grand Duchy of Tuscany. The Castrocaro Terme vineyard is home to 22 acres of Sangiovese and Trebbiano vines, grown on mineral-rich clay soils; the Brisighella vineyard has 27 acres of Trebbiano, Albana, and Sangiovese, planted on calcareous clay and sandstone. What this means is that each vineyard infuses its own personality into the wines; four distinct Romagna Sangiovese red wines, named after famous Italian harness racing horses, and four white wines that include a sparkling white Sangiovese, Trebbiano, and the elegant and native Albana, which was Italy’s first DOCG quality white wine, plus a surprise, a Vermouth Rosso only in the hottest vintages. And, of course, the Rametta brothers believe in the best environmental practices when producing their wines; biodiversity, sustainable viticulture and organic winemaking, using steel and concrete to age the wines, to preserve the fruit character of the grapes.

(L-R) Paolo Rametta, Patricia Decker and Aldo Rametta in Los Angeles, April 22, 2024

Aldo and Paolo Rametta came to Los Angeles to showcase their Romagna wine projects at the end of April, and they shared their story and four of their Poggio della Dogana wines over dinner at Terra at Eataly. The Rametta brothers are ambitious and enthusiastic about their fledgling wineries, having fallen in love with the properties, and getting back to their Romagna heritage. After renovating the vineyards and winemaking facilities, they feel that the wines are on track, representing some of the best of Romagna. Poggio della Dogana's current production of nine wines consists of four Sangiovese (two entry level), two Albana (one dry and one late harvest), one Trebbiano, one sparkling blanc de noir from Sangiovese, and one Vermouth. The bottle labels reflect a family legacy, drawings by their mother’s great grandfather, Silvio Gordini, a famous Romagna artist of the early 1900s. Their total production is 50,000 bottles but 2023 will see a 25% loss, because of the bad weather that plagued Italy in the Spring of 2023.

We started with the elegant Poggio della Dogana Belladama Romagna Albana DOCG 2022, fragrant with citrus, white flowers and herbs, vibrant with citrus, pear and herbal notes, it has a bit of body and texture from concrete aging and time on the lees. The Albana grape’s thick skins give the wine a tannic feel, and it has an intriguing salinity, due to the Brisighella vineyard soils. Named for Belladama, a famous Italian harness racing horse from almost a hundred years ago, this wine is a tribute to the Ramettas’ mother, whose grandfather owned Belladama and lost everything in World War II.

Next, the Poggio della Dogana “Santa Reparata” Romagna Sangiovese Superiore Castrocaro DOC 2021, a silky, complex wine full of character, with red and black fruit notes, well balanced and depth of flavor with spice and balsamic hints on a long persistent finish. The story of the wine’s name is linked to a young woman who was martyred during the Roman Empire, the patroness of Terra del Sole, the area where Poggio della Dogana is located. Her body, set adrift on a boat, landed in Nice, France, and was later buried at the cathedral of Sainte-Réparate. Every year, Terra del Sole dedicates their Palio race to her memory.

The Arlesiana Romagna Sangiovese Brisighella DOC 2022, aromatic with ripe red and black cherry and floral notes of rose and violet, reveals a juicy palate of fruit and silky, dense tannins. The wine is named for their maternal grandfather’s champion mare, Arlesiana, whose offspring were so successful in the harness racing world.

Finally, the Poggio della Dogana “Beldemonio” Vermouth Rosso, so fascinating! Made from Sangiovese grown in Castrocaro Terme, and only produced in the hottest years, it’s intensely aromatic, with blood orange, cherry, clove, cinnamon, black pepper, sage, thyme and rosemary, with hints of cocoa. A fortified wine, at 19% ABV, it has a tannic texture, with a red fruit and spice character, and notes of anise and nutmeg float on the immense finish. Named for another of the Ramettas’ grandfather’s champion racehorses, Beldemonio, this is a very unique wine, a 100% Sangiovese Vermouth, produced with a citrus peel infusion, make for an intriguing after dinner drink.

Harvest 2023, Courtesy of Poggio della Dogana

It’s been eight years in the making for the Rametta brothers, but both Aldo and Paolo are starting to see some of the fruits of their labors. On the financial side, they are approaching the wine business with a certain amount of business savvy. Paolo noted, “Everybody recognizes us for our business and industrial approach, looking to the numbers, the marketing, a 360 degree view that reflects a more modern approach to winemaking than existed in Romagna in the past.” And while Paolo recognizes the local farmer, who has made good wine, he says, “You can make poetry but you can’t make a living at it.”

Harvest 2023, Courtesy of Poggio della Dogana

Aldo reflected on their journey, “What I learned, on a personal level, is patience, respect for nature and the seasons, you have to admire it, the passing of each moment. When you take care of the vineyards, how you conduct your work in the cellar, you see it afterwards in the wine.” On a personal note, Aldo says, “Our mother is really happy that we are working together, it makes her proud of us, and also a piece of her life is in these wine labels.”

(L-R) Paolo Rametta, Aldo Rametta and Fabio Castellucci, Courtesy of Poggio della Dogana

For the Rametta brothers, patience and hard work makes you ready for the right moment, for Aldo, “I believe we are able to get the best out of all situations, and hope our children will follow our footsteps and continue the winemaking tradition.” But it’s not just the Rametta families that are dependent on their wine success, twenty other families are growing the business alongside them, in essence making an extended family of Poggio della Dogana and Ronchi di Castelluccio. Paolo recalls when they first started in 2016, the mayor asked them, “What are you doing here?” This year, at Vinitaly, the mayor approached them and said, “Now I understand what you’re doing, you’re giving light to this place.” And indeed, through the Rametta brothers' wine projects, they have shone the spotlight on the beauty of Romagna wines.

Poggio della Dogana, https://poggiodelladogana.com/en/
Ronchi di Castelluccio, https://ronchidicastelluccio.com/en/