Angela Velenosi of Velenosi Vini, Courtesy of Barbara Barrielle

Angela Velenosi is a self-made dynamo, establishing Velenosi Vini as a major Italian wine producer on the world stage in the span of just over thirty years.  With no experience and little capital, Velenosi used her innate business savvy and determination to build a winery from the ground up.  In the process, Velenosi has brought attention to the relatively unsung wine region of Marche and expanded a small production into a large winemaking business.  These critically acclaimed Italian wines are impressive, crafted with skill and balance, and have transformed the lesser known indigenous varietals of Passerina, Pecorino, Lacrima di Morro, Montepulciano and Vernaccia Nera into wines of elegance and beauty.

Angela Velenosi explains how Marche's maritime climate and soils create her fine wines

Velenosi’s story started in 1984, when she and her husband, Ercole, founded Velenosi Vini, taking advantage of an Italian government agricultural project that motivated young people to move from cities to the countryside, to rebuild the local winemaking business.  Like the saying, “Luck is what happens when preparation meets opportunity”, in Velenosi’s case, the preparation translated to hard work and determination, and a vision.  Only 20 years old, she dove in, starting with two wines from nine hectares (22 acres) in the Central Italian region of Marche, from the province of Ascoli Piceno.  In the thirty years since, Velenosi has expanded, producing 34 wines from 148 hectares of vineyards, with an annual production of 2.5 million bottles that circle the globe to 52 countries.  Recognized by Wine Spectator as one of Italy’s top wineries, Velenosi is harvesting the fruits of all her years of hard work.  Not resting on her laurels, which are many, she continues to broaden and refine the wines of Marche.  She consulted winemaker Attilio Pagli, whom Decanter Magazine named one of the 30 best winemakers in the world, and continues to push the boundaries of what is expected from Marche.  These hillside vineyards overlook the Adriatic Sea, at almost 1,000 feet above sea level, and their clay and limestone soils contribute to the finesse and structure of the wines.  And although the root of her last name “velen” translates to poison in Italian, the wine business has been very good to her.

Angela Velenosi and Laura Donadoni present Velenosi wines

Angela Velenosi brought seven wines to a LA Wine Writers lunch at Cafe del Rey earlier this year, assisted by local Italian wine journalist Laura Donadoni.  Through six courses, designed by Executive Chef David Vilchez, the depth of flavors and balance of structure was reinforced again and again.  There were lots of oohs and aahs, in appreciation of these well-made wines.  A sparkling Velenosi Passerina Brut ($16) was poured to start, it’s floral and citrus notes swirled within the fine bubbles, with a whiff of brioche at the end.  This very delicate sparkler was a perfect aperitif.

The Velenosi Pecorino Villa Angela DOCG 2016 ($17) is vibrant and medium bodied, ripe citrus accented with herbal notes.  Fermented with wild yeast in stainless steel tanks, it rests on its lees for about 3 months, which gives the wines a creaminess and texture.  And yes, if you’re wondering, the grape is named for sheep, “pecora" translates to sheep in Italian.  The story has it that shepherds moved their flocks back and forth through the areas where these grapes grew, and the sheep loved eating the grapes.  So Pecorino has become the name of the grape and of course, the cheese made from sheep milk.  In honor of that, the first course was an Herbed Goat Cheese on Marble Rye Toast, highlighting the creamy and herbal characteristics of the wine.

Verdicchi is the most famous white wine of the region.  Velenosi Verdicchio dei Castelli di Jesi 2017 ($17) is mineral, briny, and vibrant, with citrus flavors and lemon-lime zest on the finish.  Using the same production method as Pecorino, Verdicchio distinguishes itself with its aging potential.  As Donadoni explained, “ In a recent vertical tasting, Verdicchio showed ethereal flavors which resemble old Riesling wines to me.”  Although perfect with seafood, our second course was a great pair, a Spinach & Stone Fruit Salad with Orange Vinaigrette, which Donadoni found a good match, “the acidity of the orange vinaigrette matches the wine”.

Laura Donadoni explores aromas and flavors of Velenosi Lacrima

Lacrima translates to “tear” in Italian, which either refers to the grape’s teardrop shape or the teardrops of juice that easily bleed from its thin skin when ripe.  This rare red winegrape is grown mostly in the Lacrima di Morro d’Alba DOC of Marche.  Velenosi Lacrima di Morro d’Alba Querciantica DOC 2017 ($17) is velvety and full-bodied, floral with dark fruit, herbs and a touch of spice, the rich flavors with soft tannins are superbly balanced.  Paired with a Butternut Squash and Chocolate Bread Pudding with a Dried Plum Sauce, the wine, slightly chilled, really excelled with this third course.

Velenosi Ludi Offida Rosso DOCG 2014 ($65) is a blend of 85% Montepulciano, 8% Cabernet Sauvignon, and 7% Merlot.  Hand-picked, fermented in steel vats, macerated on the lees for 25 days, and aged in new French oak barriques for 18 months, it’s a classic blend that shines with Velenosi’s touch.  Elegant with ripe plum and cherry fruit, balanced and juicy, its textured mouthfeel finishes with silky tannins, a beautiful wine.  It excelled with the Roasted Peppered Venison with Shaved Fennel & Cranberry Slaw with Pernod Dressing.

Velenosi Roggio del Filare Rosso Piceno Superiore DOC 2013 ($65), a blend of 70% Montepulciano and 30% Sangiovese, is a standout.  The top-rated wine in the region, having won many awards, its plum and blackberry flavors, with a touch of spice, is lush and structured, balanced with fresh acidity and refined tannins, with a polished and sophisticated finish.  Made from 45-year-old vines from a single vineyard, it was served with a 48 Day Dry Aged Beef in a Mushroom Sauce, truly heaven! ​

Vernaccia di Serrapetrona is an unusual triple fermented wine.  Made with 50% fresh crushed grapes, which are processed as a dry wine (first fermentation), and the other 50% of the grapes are dried for 3 months, then fermented (second fermentation), finally both are blended for a third fermentation as a sparkling wine in an autoclave for 9-10 months.  This is a dry version of this style of wine, it’s also made as a sweet sparkler.  Velenosi Vernaccia di Serrapetrona DOCG Secco 2016 ($30) is intriguing, succulent red fruit with a spritz!  A great way to end a meal, so delicious, and was served with Almond Flour Cookies.

Angela Velenosi is a force of nature, ambitious for her own brand and the Le Marche region, shining the spotlight on its progress and potential for even finer wines in the future.  Velenosi is President of the area’s wine consortium, Consorzio di Tutela Vini Piceni, and is a great ambassador for Marche wines.  The wines are widely available in the US, and well-priced for their considerable quality.