Albariño and Rioja, two wildly popular Spanish wines, took center stage at the 2018 Spain’s Great Match, a 25th anniversary celebration of Spain’s iconic wine and food event held in Los Angeles. Billed as Spain’s Great Match (Wine - Food - Design), the event offered an opportunity to explore various wine regions throughout Spain. Over 150 Spanish wines were poured, accompanied by tapas from Jose Andrés’ Los Angeles restaurant, The Bazaar, and three seminars were held, spotlighting classic Spanish wines.
First, a deep dive into Albariño, from Rías Baixas in northwestern Spain. In the coastal region of Galicia, Albariño has been the flagship wine, responsible for 96% of all vine plantings, which thrive in the rich mineral soils and cool climate. With so much humidity and rainfall, care is used to thwart mildew and help ripening, by widely spacing the vines and training them up stone pergolas with wire trellises up to seven feet high, allowing breezes to circulate through the bunches. Five subregions define the many micro-climates for over 20,000 vineyards. Officially produced under the Rías Baixas DO since 1988, Albariño grown here embodies all that makes it so delightful, a distinctive, rich fruit, aromatic profile along with acidity and balance. Many winemaking techniques shape Albariño, the most common are pre-fermentation maceration (increases aromatic complexity and structure), fermenting with wild yeast (for authenticity of the native Albariño), barrel fermentation and aging (adds complexity, flavors and structure, in addition to texture and aging ability), malolactic fermentation (used to produce a softer, rounder wine), and extended lees contact (enhances aromas and flavors, while producing a rounder texture). Fruity yet bone-dry, aromas of ripe melon, honeysuckle, green apple, citrus, peach, pear, and apricot stone fruit exist in a vibrant wine with mineral highlights. Surprisingly, although ready to drink upon release, some Albariño wines are structured and complex enough to age. Michael Meagher, Master Sommelier, conducted the “One Grape, One Region, Many Styles. Albariño’s Evolution in Rías Baixas” seminar, where eight wines were compared.
Bodegas AS Laxas Sensum Brut Laxas 2016, a delicate sparkler, channeled a stone fruit, bread, nuts, honey, and citrus profile, for me, the aromas were similar to Cava, so interesting!
Martin Códax 2016, a crisp, fresh and floral 100% Albariño, produced by a co-operative of over 400 growers, had a clean, classic style. Biscuit notes from some lees contact, along with richer aromas of orchard fruits, gave it a bit more complexity.
Adegas Terra de Asorei Pazo Torrado 2017 was a leaner style, pure and racy with green apple and citrus notes.
Bodegas Fillaboa Selección Finca Monte Alto 2016, a rare single vineyard Albariño, was lower in acid but mouthwatering in its aromas, framed by a richness from the warmer 2016 vintage and higher alcohol.
Altos de Torona Rosal 2017, a blend of 88% Albariño, 12% Caiño and Loureira, was so smooth yet still retained its acidity, fresh and mineral, more Portuguese-style, but one of my favorites.
Granbazán D. Alvaro de Bazán 2014, a barrel-aged Albariño, still had lots of acidity but a touch of bitterness on the back palate.
Paco & Lola 2010 was so smooth and delicious, a lychee note was noticeable, the age on this wine added so much complexity, along with the lees aging.
Pazo Señorans Albariño Selección Añada 2010, another aged wine with amazing aromas, a dense and mineral wine that packed the wow factor!
Martin Códax 2016, a crisp, fresh and floral 100% Albariño, produced by a co-operative of over 400 growers, had a clean, classic style. Biscuit notes from some lees contact, along with richer aromas of orchard fruits, gave it a bit more complexity.
Adegas Terra de Asorei Pazo Torrado 2017 was a leaner style, pure and racy with green apple and citrus notes.
Bodegas Fillaboa Selección Finca Monte Alto 2016, a rare single vineyard Albariño, was lower in acid but mouthwatering in its aromas, framed by a richness from the warmer 2016 vintage and higher alcohol.
Altos de Torona Rosal 2017, a blend of 88% Albariño, 12% Caiño and Loureira, was so smooth yet still retained its acidity, fresh and mineral, more Portuguese-style, but one of my favorites.
Granbazán D. Alvaro de Bazán 2014, a barrel-aged Albariño, still had lots of acidity but a touch of bitterness on the back palate.
Paco & Lola 2010 was so smooth and delicious, a lychee note was noticeable, the age on this wine added so much complexity, along with the lees aging.
Pazo Señorans Albariño Selección Añada 2010, another aged wine with amazing aromas, a dense and mineral wine that packed the wow factor!
Rioja wine, well known for decades, has seen lots of changes in recent years, transitioning from a traditional approach to a modern style. Savory, medium-bodied Tempranillo-based wines, defined by blending and aging, are yielding to more fruit forward wines that express a single vineyard and grape varietal. Quality is being determined not solely by oak aging regiments, but by terroir and vineyard expression. Ana Fabiano, award-winning author and Rioja North America Brand Ambassador, explored seven Rioja wines in the “Royal Reservas and Gran Reservas of Rioja” seminar.
Bodegas Murrieta Reserva 2013 is in the classic camp, a blend of 83% Tempranillo, 9% Graciano, 5% Mazuelo and 3% Graciano, a round wine with violet aromas and a dried fruit palate with a touch of greenness to it.
Bodegas Viña Pomal Reserva 2013, 100% Tempranillo, was more tannic, with black fruit, coffee and licorice notes.
Bodegas Torres Ibéricos Reserva 2012, also 100% Tempranillo, a big wine with a stewed black plum, sage, and thyme profile with cedar notes.
Bodegas Montecillo Reserva 2011, a well-balanced and structured wine with dark fruit and spice, aged in a blend of American and French oak, delicious!
Bodegas Ontañón Reserva 2010, a blend of 95% Tempranillo and 5% Graciano, plum and blackberry fruit, spice and earthy notes, elegant with supple tannins, balanced with a long finish.
Bodegas CVNE Imperial Gran Reserva 2009, round and velvety textured, this 85% Tempranillo, 10% Graciano and 5% Mazuelo had a perfect balance of fruit, oak, acidity and tannins, aged in French and American oak, it had a cinnamon note accent.
Bodegas Faustino Gran Reserva 2005, from a great vintage, was jammy up front, cocoa and tobacco notes with hints of balsamic and cedar.
Bodegas Viña Pomal Reserva 2013, 100% Tempranillo, was more tannic, with black fruit, coffee and licorice notes.
Bodegas Torres Ibéricos Reserva 2012, also 100% Tempranillo, a big wine with a stewed black plum, sage, and thyme profile with cedar notes.
Bodegas Montecillo Reserva 2011, a well-balanced and structured wine with dark fruit and spice, aged in a blend of American and French oak, delicious!
Bodegas Ontañón Reserva 2010, a blend of 95% Tempranillo and 5% Graciano, plum and blackberry fruit, spice and earthy notes, elegant with supple tannins, balanced with a long finish.
Bodegas CVNE Imperial Gran Reserva 2009, round and velvety textured, this 85% Tempranillo, 10% Graciano and 5% Mazuelo had a perfect balance of fruit, oak, acidity and tannins, aged in French and American oak, it had a cinnamon note accent.
Bodegas Faustino Gran Reserva 2005, from a great vintage, was jammy up front, cocoa and tobacco notes with hints of balsamic and cedar.
In the brief time left, I tasted wines from two producers. Heretat Mastinell had a notable lineup of sparkling Cava wines, while Marqués de Riscal poured quite a selection of wines, which I found impressive for their price point. The 2016 Sauvignon Blanc, Rosé, 2014 Próxima, and 2012 Reserva were outstanding, especially considering they retailed from $14-20.
Spain’s Great Match displayed the magic of food and wine pairings, and also some pretty iconic and wonderful wines by themselves. From sparkling to dessert, it’s a reminder that some of the best wine values in the world are found in Spain.