Pyros Wines, derived from the ancient Greek word for fire, is definitely an Argentinean winery “on fire”. This new winery, barely a decade out from its first harvest, specializes in intense Malbec wines. It is a young project on the move, producing world-class wines from a previously unknown region, a remote place whose soils echo those of France’s Burgundy region. Truly handcrafted wines that manifest the limestone and flint soils in the cold desert climate of the Pedernal Valley are catching the world’s eye, and deserve to be on your radar for an incredible incarnation of Malbec, and eventually other varietal wines in the future.
Part of the illustrious Salentein Family of Wines, Pyros was inspired by the landscape of the Valle de Pedernal, south of San Juan and north of Mendoza, Argentina. Literally at the foot of the Andes Mountains, this isolated, protected valley is made up of limestone or “calcareous” soils peppered with silica stones or “flint”, known locally as “Pedernal”. These high altitude vineyards are, in fact, some of the highest in Argentina. The rare limestone soils, nourished by Andean snowmelt and an underground aquifer, and grapes grown within a cold continental climate, give rise to wines of intense color, a greater expression of aromas and flavors, good tannins and vibrant acidity, with great aging potential.
The diverse terroir and wild beauty of the Pedernal Valley galvanized Mjindert Pon, the founder of Bodegas Salentein, to create Pyros Wines in 2008, as a world-class collection of wine that showcased this terroir. Today’s 800 acre estate is planted to 200 acres of Malbec, one of only six producers and two grape growers in the Pedernal Valley. Farming organically, Pyros is working towards their certification, another step in their journey. Winemaker Paula González, who came onboard in 2019, finds it to be a “great, young project”, the vineyards planted on the Pedernal Hill, with different soils at different levels, yielding completely different wines. Because of the climate, Pyros harvests earlier for style, producing elegant wines of character and complexity. Aromas of black fruit, wild flowers and spice swirl in the glass, while the concentrated nectar, alive with acidity, black fruit, spice and mineral notes flows through the palate.
González is a native of Mendoza, and brings impressive credentials to her role as winemaker at Pyros. Utilizing her experience crafting premium wines, she seeks “to bring creativity and innovation to the challenge of making wines that reflect the ultimate expression of Pyros vineyards and the Pedernal Valley”. Researching and experimenting with vineyard plantings and vinification techniques, González aims to position the Pedernal Valley at the top of Argentinean viticulture, promoting the gains Pyros has made in a very short time. She and her PR team came to Los Angeles, and shared several wines and their story with the LA Wine Writers. Lingering over four wines and a delicious luncheon at Craft, it seems that what might be a challenge for other wineries only makes Pyros stronger. Late frost and global warming are issues, yet the vines’ struggles seem to impart more character and flavor into the wines.
Starting with the Pyros Appellation Chardonnay 2021 (SRP $27), Pyros’ first white wine is intense and complex, with pear, peach and green apple aromas, along with white flowers and mineral notes. Hand-harvested fruit bought from another grower, the grapes are fermented in 80% stainless steel and 20% French new and used oak barrels for three weeks, then aged for six months in contact with the lees, which adds roundness to the wine. Reminiscent of Burgundy in a way, it’s balanced acidity and round mouthfeel makes this wine delicious to drink by the glass or with food, in our case, paired with a Wild Arugula & Parmesan Salad. González is happy with this initial production, and hopes to continue to improve upon it in future vintages.
Next up, the trio of Malbec wines, the shining star of Pyros, paired with Jidori Chicken, Wagyu Sirloin, Chantenay Carrots and Charred Snap Peas, served family style. The Pyros Appellation Malbec 2019 (SRP $27) is a classic blend of different blocks throughout the Pedernal vineyards. Although it is their entry level Malbec, it inhabits a “sense of place”, you can feel the altitude and the distinctive soils in the wine. Nicely balanced, it’s not as concentrated as the single block wines, but it carries a silky grace about it, with its youthful purple hues, higher acidity, minerality, integrated tannins, and plum, black cherry, blackberry, spice and violet notes. According to González, this truly represents the appellation and its potential.
The Pyros Single Vineyard Block No. 4 Malbec 2018 (SRP $45) is a more masculine style of Malbec, powerful with firm tannins and higher alcohol, complex in its dark fruit, wildflower aromas, spice and mineral spine. This is a small production for Pyros, lots of tinkering with micro-vinification techniques to preserve the primary aromas. Once harvested, the fruit is cooled for three days before fermentation, then twelve days of fermentation in a variety of vessels, specifically concrete eggs, stainless steel, and French oak barrels. Afterwards, the grapes are macerated for ten days, all to achieve maximum expression.
Finally, their icon wine, the Pyros Limestone Hill Malbec 2018 (SRP $100) is a showstopper! This is a testament to what limestone brings to a finished wine. A more feminine expression, the wine is so beautiful, aromatically intense with red fruit, wild herbs and subtle floral notes, refined yet bold, a delicate acidity continually refreshes the palate. Complex and layered, the flavors blossom in the mouth, and the silky tannins guide it to a very long finish, one that seems to go on forever. Reflecting the care of harvest, with a cold pre-fermentation maceration for three days, then a 15 day fermentation in a mix of French and American oak barrels, the grapes are then macerated again for ten days. Lots of hands-on work for these wines earn them the “truly handcrafted” label, with caution to avoid introducing oxygen into the winemaking process. Just crowned the best Malbec in the world by Drinks Business magazine out of the UK, I have to agree that it is breathtaking, and exciting for Pyros, it seems to be just the beginning of more incredible wine to come.
Winemaker Paula González is leading the charge, presiding over Pyros’ diverse production of Malbec, and on track to make other varietal wines that interpret the Valle de Pedernal, with a Chardonnay in place and Pinot Noir and Cabernet Franc in the future. Great values and quality abound in Pyros wines, with the ultimate splurge on Limestone Hill. Pyros truly captures the essence of their name, lighting a fire of inspiration for their future and that of the Valle de Pedernal in Argentina.