Portugal is a land of contrasts, with vines clinging to an array of soils and hundreds of diverse micro-climates, with 250 indigenous wine grape varietals from 14 different wine regions. From the cool, refreshing whites of the northern Vinho Verde, known for its Alvarinho, to the hot, parched southern Alentejo, with its Alicante Bouschet, in between the two are some of the more recognizable wine regions, the Dão and Douro, known for Touriga Nacional, considered Portugal’s national grape. These contrasts make the cornucopia of Portuguese wines so fascinating, and their price points tag them as a best buy. For these reasons, and so many more, the Wines of Portugal should be a part of your wine drinking repertoire.
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(L-R) Evan Goldstein and Eugenio Jardim
Wines of Portugal showcased this amazing array of wines in a combination masterclass/producer tasting, "Perspectives on Portugal", for the wine trade at the Beverly Hills Hotel last year. Their US Ambassador, Eugenio Jardim, and Master Sommelier Evan Goldstein presented an impressive case for this treasure chest of wines, unique in so many ways. Native winegrape varietals not seen anywhere else, a long history of winemaking, and knowledge handed down from generation to generation are a few of the reasons that the wines of Portugal are so different.
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First, “A to Z: Portugal’s Eno Alphabet Master Class” delved into a dozen wines, six white and six red, all spotlighting the star winegrape varietals. To help identify these indigenous winegrape aroma/flavor profiles with more main stream wines, comparisons were drawn, in the “If You Like” column. But once experienced, these wines will never be confused with other European varietals. Ready for something new? Here’s a guide to some of the best that Portugal has to offer.
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White Wines:
Gouveio made a lively and elegant Caves Transmontanas Vértice Gouveio 2008 sparkling wine, a blend of 85% Gouveio and 15% Arinto, whose fine mousse and textured stonefruit profile was so delightful. (If you like Marsanne, Grenache Blanc, and Semillon, you’ll like Gouveio)
Alvarinho, whose higher acidity, lower alcohol, and crunchy fruit was so beautifully displayed in the João Portugal Ramos 2015, a product of sustainable viticulture and partial fermentation in new French oak. (If you like Albariño, Pinot Grigio, and Dry Riesling, you’ll like Alvarinho)
Azal Branco, whose pungent aromas and fresh profile made for an intriguing white wine in the 2016 Quinta de Linhares. (If you like Arinto, Dry Riesling, Pinot Grigio, and Pinot Blanc, you’ll like Azal)
Bical, an aromatic early ripening white grape, capable of aging up to 20 years, strutted its savory, mineral character in the 2015 Quinta Dos Roques with grip and intensity. (If you like Dry Riesling, ripe Gruner Veltliner or Albariño, you’ll like Bical)
Malvasia Fina is aromatic and textured, with a beeswax quality, evident in the 2016 Carlos Lucas Jardim da Estrela, a blend of Malvasia Fina and Encruzado, along with a Meyer lemon zing. (If you like Semillon, Roussanne, and Pinot Blanc, you’ll like Malvasia Fina)
Verdelho, with its fresh fruit profile of peach, tangerine, and yellow apple, revealed its stony minerality and herbal accents (tarragon, anise, and celery root) in the 2016 Herdade do Esporão Verdelho. The fruit is sourced from vineyards in the cork oak forests of the Alentejo, some of which are organically certified. (If you like Verdejo, riper Sauvignon Blanc, Vernaccia, and the fortified wines of Vin Jaune and Sherry, you’ll like Verdelho)
Gouveio made a lively and elegant Caves Transmontanas Vértice Gouveio 2008 sparkling wine, a blend of 85% Gouveio and 15% Arinto, whose fine mousse and textured stonefruit profile was so delightful. (If you like Marsanne, Grenache Blanc, and Semillon, you’ll like Gouveio)
Alvarinho, whose higher acidity, lower alcohol, and crunchy fruit was so beautifully displayed in the João Portugal Ramos 2015, a product of sustainable viticulture and partial fermentation in new French oak. (If you like Albariño, Pinot Grigio, and Dry Riesling, you’ll like Alvarinho)
Azal Branco, whose pungent aromas and fresh profile made for an intriguing white wine in the 2016 Quinta de Linhares. (If you like Arinto, Dry Riesling, Pinot Grigio, and Pinot Blanc, you’ll like Azal)
Bical, an aromatic early ripening white grape, capable of aging up to 20 years, strutted its savory, mineral character in the 2015 Quinta Dos Roques with grip and intensity. (If you like Dry Riesling, ripe Gruner Veltliner or Albariño, you’ll like Bical)
Malvasia Fina is aromatic and textured, with a beeswax quality, evident in the 2016 Carlos Lucas Jardim da Estrela, a blend of Malvasia Fina and Encruzado, along with a Meyer lemon zing. (If you like Semillon, Roussanne, and Pinot Blanc, you’ll like Malvasia Fina)
Verdelho, with its fresh fruit profile of peach, tangerine, and yellow apple, revealed its stony minerality and herbal accents (tarragon, anise, and celery root) in the 2016 Herdade do Esporão Verdelho. The fruit is sourced from vineyards in the cork oak forests of the Alentejo, some of which are organically certified. (If you like Verdejo, riper Sauvignon Blanc, Vernaccia, and the fortified wines of Vin Jaune and Sherry, you’ll like Verdelho)
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Red Wines:
Castelão channeled a succulent Grenache-type character, with red fruit and cedar notes, it’s low tannins made for a juicy 2015 Quinta de Chocapalha Castelão. (If you like Grenache blends, ripe Cabernet Franc, and full Tempranillo/Garnacha blends, you’ll like Castelão)
Tinta Roriz, the #1 planted grape, flaunted its potpourri of aromas and flavors in the 2014 Quinta do Crasto Tinta Roriz. Strawberry, plum, and mulberry fruit, herbs, fennel, leather, black pepper, licorice, tobacco, vanilla, and smoke wove a spell of savory deliciousness around this fascinating wine, which was foot trodden and fermented in granite troughs, then finished in new French oak barrels. This fabulous wine is only made in the best vintages. (If you like Rioja, Sangiovese, and Italian Syrah, you’ll like Tinta Roriz)
Touriga Nacional makes Portugal’s most complex wines, with its rich dark fruit, floral notes, herbal flair, licorice and bitter chocolate character. The 2011 Julia Kemper Touriga Nacional fulfilled this promise. A second example, the 2014 Quinta do Passadoura Touriga Nacional, embraced the natural approach, with organic farming, indigenous yeasts, and foot trodden fermentation, a combination of new and used French oak aging finished this beauty perfectly. (If you like Petite Sirah, Cabernet Sauvignon blends, and Shiraz, you’ll like Touriga Nacional)
Sousão, famous for its bite and structure, has cherry and plum fruit, and herbal accents of rosemary, thyme, and anise. The savory and delicious 2012 Casa Santos Lima Sousão was fascinating. (If you like Barbera, Xinomavro, and Baga, you’ll like Sousão)
Alicante Bouschet is captivating in that it is a Teinturier grape, a dark-skinned grape with red flesh, very rare in the world of red grapes, whose pulp is usually white. It makes an intensely colored wine, with body, grip, and tannin, represented by the intriguing 2015 Alexandre Relvas “Herdade São Miguel”. (If you like Petite Sirah, Sangiovese Grosso, and Zinfandel, you’ll like Alicante Bouschet)
Castelão channeled a succulent Grenache-type character, with red fruit and cedar notes, it’s low tannins made for a juicy 2015 Quinta de Chocapalha Castelão. (If you like Grenache blends, ripe Cabernet Franc, and full Tempranillo/Garnacha blends, you’ll like Castelão)
Tinta Roriz, the #1 planted grape, flaunted its potpourri of aromas and flavors in the 2014 Quinta do Crasto Tinta Roriz. Strawberry, plum, and mulberry fruit, herbs, fennel, leather, black pepper, licorice, tobacco, vanilla, and smoke wove a spell of savory deliciousness around this fascinating wine, which was foot trodden and fermented in granite troughs, then finished in new French oak barrels. This fabulous wine is only made in the best vintages. (If you like Rioja, Sangiovese, and Italian Syrah, you’ll like Tinta Roriz)
Touriga Nacional makes Portugal’s most complex wines, with its rich dark fruit, floral notes, herbal flair, licorice and bitter chocolate character. The 2011 Julia Kemper Touriga Nacional fulfilled this promise. A second example, the 2014 Quinta do Passadoura Touriga Nacional, embraced the natural approach, with organic farming, indigenous yeasts, and foot trodden fermentation, a combination of new and used French oak aging finished this beauty perfectly. (If you like Petite Sirah, Cabernet Sauvignon blends, and Shiraz, you’ll like Touriga Nacional)
Sousão, famous for its bite and structure, has cherry and plum fruit, and herbal accents of rosemary, thyme, and anise. The savory and delicious 2012 Casa Santos Lima Sousão was fascinating. (If you like Barbera, Xinomavro, and Baga, you’ll like Sousão)
Alicante Bouschet is captivating in that it is a Teinturier grape, a dark-skinned grape with red flesh, very rare in the world of red grapes, whose pulp is usually white. It makes an intensely colored wine, with body, grip, and tannin, represented by the intriguing 2015 Alexandre Relvas “Herdade São Miguel”. (If you like Petite Sirah, Sangiovese Grosso, and Zinfandel, you’ll like Alicante Bouschet)
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A second seminar, “A Crème de la Crème Master Class”, focused on some of the very best wines of Portugal. From the Douro and Bairrada regions, 11 wines were explored, so very fascinating! These wines are crafted by iconic and generational winemakers that are changing the landscape of Portuguese wines. Here are my five favorites:
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CARM Reserva Branco 2014 - a delicious blend of Códega do Larinho, Rabigato, and Viozinho, a three white varietal combination that is bright and refreshing, with an amazing nose of ripe stonefruit and citrus, a streak of minerality, and a long finish. Casa Agricola Roboredo Madeira Lda is a family winery, started over 300 years ago, who pioneered organic farming in the Douro Valley, in a region that is considered the “Wild West” of Portugal.
Muxagat Os Xistos Altos 2012 - 100% Rabigato, which translates to “tail of the cat” is elegant and complex, with persistent fruit and white floral aromas, and an intriguing mineral “salinity”. Muxagat is a passion project of Mateus Nicolau de Almeida, whose father and grandfather are part of the iconic landscape of Douro winemaking, once owning Ramos Pinto and responsible for bringing still wines to a Port wine region.
Luis Pato Baga “Quinta do Moinho” 2000 - 100% Baga, an intense dark wine similar to Nebbiolo, with firm tannins and floral accents, this is a wine meant to be aged. Luis Pato is responsible for modernizing the Bairrada region, while promoting Baga, the local grape varietal.
Herdade do Mouchão Tinto 2007 - a blend of Alicante Bouschet and Trincadeira, this full-bodied red is concentrated and spicy, with dark fruit, herbal accents, and hints of eucalyptus and black pepper. Herdade do Mouchão represents quality winemaking at its best from the Alentejo region, and is renowned for their long-lived Alicante Bouschet.
Muxagat Os Xistos Altos 2012 - 100% Rabigato, which translates to “tail of the cat” is elegant and complex, with persistent fruit and white floral aromas, and an intriguing mineral “salinity”. Muxagat is a passion project of Mateus Nicolau de Almeida, whose father and grandfather are part of the iconic landscape of Douro winemaking, once owning Ramos Pinto and responsible for bringing still wines to a Port wine region.
Luis Pato Baga “Quinta do Moinho” 2000 - 100% Baga, an intense dark wine similar to Nebbiolo, with firm tannins and floral accents, this is a wine meant to be aged. Luis Pato is responsible for modernizing the Bairrada region, while promoting Baga, the local grape varietal.
Herdade do Mouchão Tinto 2007 - a blend of Alicante Bouschet and Trincadeira, this full-bodied red is concentrated and spicy, with dark fruit, herbal accents, and hints of eucalyptus and black pepper. Herdade do Mouchão represents quality winemaking at its best from the Alentejo region, and is renowned for their long-lived Alicante Bouschet.
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Sogevinus Fine Wines Kopke Colheita Port 1967 - this single vintage Tawny Port is stunning in its rich caramel aromas, apricot, citrus, and dried fig flavors, and nutty accents on the very long finish. The house of Kopke dates back to 1638, making it the oldest Porto wine export firm.
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Tasting through the 20 producers at this trade tasting, the Wines of Portugal’s motto “Challenge Your Senses, Enjoy the Unique” was so fitting. No matter what type of wine you like, Portugal is the complete picture, from sparkling wines to aged Ports, all are geared to be food-friendly and well-balanced. Even though the red wines of Portugal are powerful, rich and concentrated, they are not alcoholic, coming in at a balanced 13.5% ABV, with great natural acidity. And since joining the EU in 1986, Portugal has advanced their wine industry exponentially. The wines are becoming more sophisticated, with advances in technology and an emphasis on quality.
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Momentum is gathering for the wines of Portugal, as quality rises, their value has increased, with almost half of all wines rated highly by many wine critics, and warmly embraced by many US wine lovers. Rediscovered by wine drinkers in recent years, what once was old school is now considered the “new” hot region, with excellent wines at great prices. Exceptional dry wines, red and white blends, in addition to sparkling and rosé, offer quality and value. Portuguese wines spring from tradition, yet embrace modern influences, making them wine jewels waiting to be discovered.