Domaines Albert Bichot's "Clos des Ursulines" monopole vineyard plot at Domaine du Pavillon, Courtesy of Domaines Albert Bichot

Chardonnay grapes, Courtesy of Domaines Albert Bichot

Pinot Noir grapes, Courtesy of Domaines Albert Bichot

The mystique of Burgundy has captured wine lovers for decades on so many levels.  Starting with the delicate interplay of terroir which makes its signature grapes, Chardonnay and Pinot Noir, most susceptible to Mother Nature’s whims and a winemaker’s touch.  Almost two thousand years of history and tradition that has led to the indelible, inescapable fragrance and flavor of the sum of all parts, mostly in these single varietal wines that express the purity of the grape.  And that seemingly rarefied air, that these wines are special, almost mystical for their subtle yet distinctive personality.

Harvest at Château-Gris, Courtesy of Domaines Albert Bichot

The wine map of Bourgogne, Courtesy of Beaune Tourism

Burgundy, known as Bourgogne, seems intimidating to the average wine lover, so many regions and so much to know.  Overall, Bourgogne is so well-defined, that a vine three feet away from another, can produce a different perception of that same grape.  The wine region of Bourgogne is like a finger, stretching about 140 miles from north to south, and 1-20 miles in width.  Over 70,000 acres of vines are criss-crossed with 100 AOCs, all on track to produce very good or great wines.  The individual vineyard plots are known as climats, defined by their geology and climate, but mostly their unique sensory signature.  This purity and identity is protected from too much human intervention by French wine law.  The world of Burgundian wine can be complex, it is often said that one can study and taste Burgundian wines for their entire life, and still not know and comprehend all of it.  But that shouldn’t interfere with savoring these amazing wines, that channel the Old World yet speak to the New.

Sixth generation wine producer Albéric Bichot, Courtesy of Domaines Albert Bichot

Cabotte Clos des Mouche, Courtesy of Domaines Albert Bichot

Gentle on the land farming techniques, Courtesy of Domaines Albert Bichot

The cellars at Domaine Long-Depaquit, Courtesy of Domaines Albert Bichot

Domaines Albert Bichot is a major family-owned producer in Bourgogne.  Although it was officially founded in 1831, the Bichot family presence in Bourgogne goes back hundreds of years to 1350.  Initially a wine trading business, the Bichot family slowly expanded into producing and exporting their own wines, until today’s patriarch, Albéric took over thirty years ago.  Bichot, a 6th generation owner, is focused on the future, farming sustainable and converting to organic viticulture where possible, adding new vineyard estates, expanding their production capabilities in making and ageing the wines, and increasing their presence around the world.  Today the map of Domaines Albert Bichot encompasses 250 acres, from Chablis to Beaujolais, composed of six estates.  Bichot is one of the largest Grand Cru producers in Burgundy and also a négociant, purchasing grapes from other growers to fill their growing demand for wine.  Albert Bichot produces wine from every major region in Bourgogne, except for the Mâconnais.

Matthieu Mangenot, Assistant Technical Director of Domaines Albert Bichot

​Matthieu Mangenot, the Assistant Technical Director of Albert Bichot, recently came to Los Angeles, to share their story and wines with a small group of wine writers at Restaurant Lulu within the Hammer Museum.  Mangenot joined Albert Bichot in 2007, his expertise in soil management and crop production plus an affinity for the science of making wine placed him squarely as the manager of their Chablis estate, Domaine Long-Depaquit.  Here, his comprehensive approach allowed the grapes to shine, without winemaker intervention.  Mangenot took a larger role in 2018 as Assistant Technical Director at Bichot’s home office in Beaune, overlooking the bigger picture for the other estates, and making sure that the transition to sustainable and organic continues smoothly.

The Chablis vineyards of Domaine Long-Depaquit, Courtesy of Domaines Albert Bichot

Domaine du Clos Frantin, Courtesy of Domaines Albert Bichot

Château-Gris, Courtesy of Domaines Albert Bichot

Domaine du Pavillon, Courtesy of Domaines Albert Bichot

Domaine Adélie, Courtesy of Domaines Albert Bichot

Domaine de Rochegrés, Courtesy of Domaines Albert Bichot

Each of the six estates have their own vineyard teams and winery, where the wines are vinified and aged.  Domaine Long-Depaquit produces Grand Cru, Premier Cru, and Village Chablis, elegant and mineral Chardonnay wines.  Domaine du Clos Frantin crafts Grand Cru, Premier Cru, and Village Pinot Noir organic wines in Nuits-Saint-Georges.  Château-Gris cultivates Pinot Noir and Chardonnay Premier Cru and Village organic wines within terraced vineyards in Nuits-Saint-Georges.  Domaine du Pavillon fashions Chardonnay and Pinot Noir into Grand Cru, Premier Cru and Village organic wines within a walled estate.  Domaine Adélie makes red and white wines, Premier Cru and Village in Mercurey.  Domaine de Rochegrés produces fleshy red wines with floral aromas from Moulin-à-Vent.  The Bichot house style, if you can call it that, for all these wines requires (1) the terroir is represented (2) purity and a bright fruit profile (3) silky tannins (4) ability to age and (5) balanced wines that can be easily enjoyed relatively early.

Matthieu Mangenot of Domaines Albert Bichot

Mangenot brought seven wines to lunch, representing a good sampling of the estates offerings.  We started with the Albert Bichot Crémant de Bourgogne Brut Réserve (SRP $32), a blend of Chardonnay and Pinot Noir, which is aged individually for 9 months in stainless steel tanks, then rested on its lees for at least one year.  Reserve wines are added (15%) and the wine is matured in bottle for another 18-20 months.  This is so delicious, tiny bubbles danced atop aromas of citrus and white flowers, with a whiff of tropical essence, so vivacious and elegant.

Next up, three wines with the first course, two Chablis and one Meursault, all 100% Chardonnay, served alongside a Green Pea Spread on Toast and a Leek and Green Garlic soup.  The Albert Bichot Chablis Domaine Long-Depaquit 2020 (SRP $25) expressed beautiful aromas of pear, apple and citrus alongside white flowers and flint.  Zesty, with a richness due to the warmer vintage, notes of almond and a saline quality, almost a hint of iodine (in a good way!) accompany the refreshing finish.  The Albert Bichot Chablis Premier Cru “Montmains” Domaine Long-Depaquit 2020 (SRP $73) yields similar aromas, with a more pronounced toasted almond essence. It’s more ripe and concentrated since it was the last pick of the harvest, aged in neutral oak to accentuate the minerality.  Both of these Chablis wines are elegant and complex, due to Domaine Long-Depaquit’s mosaic of terroir.

The Albert Bichot Meursault Premier Cru “Les Charmes” Domaine du Pavillon 2020 (SRP $190) is a rich wine, with lots of character, structure and acidity.  Rich and round, smooth and velvety on the palate, ripe citrus, almond, white flowers and freshly baked bread aromas are woven into a long and textured finish.  What is unique about this wine is it comes from a vineyard plot that lies above two different soil types, so it produces a particularly complex wine.  On one side, a more opulent and generous character is revealed while still retaining a mineral and chiseled focus

Albert Bichot Pommard "Clos des Ursulines" is a Monopole wine from Domaine du Pavillon

For the second course, three red wines were served, two Pinot Noirs and a Gamay, alongside the Pan-seared Baja Sea Bass with New Potatoes, Asparagus, Green Olive Salsa and Aioli.  The Albert Bichot Pommard “Clos des Ursulines” Monopole Domaine du Pavillon 2018 (SRP $78) is a softer, more feminine style of Pinot Noir from this region of Pommard.  The Monopole designation means that the “Clos des Ursulines” appellation, all 9.2 acres, is controlled exclusively by Albert Bichot.  With a fruity nose of cherry, blackcurrent and fig, this round wine is structured yet subtle, elegant with ripe tannins, and a silky richness that leads to a velvety finish.  According to the tasting notes, the aromas will evolve towards coffee and leather as the wine ages.

​The Albert Bichot Gevrey-Chambertin 2017 (SRP $85) is a more robust wine, supple and concentrated, fleshy with dark cherry, raspberry and plum fruit, accented by notes of spice, forest floor and dried rose petals.  Zesty and complex, it has a solid tannic core but remains velvety and well balanced, with a long finish.  Wines that come from Gevvrey-Chambertin are often referred to as an "Iron Fist in a Velvet Glove", because of their power and finesse, and are some of the most coveted in Bourgogne.

​The Albert Bichot Moulin-Á-Vent Domaine de Rochegrés 2019 (SRP $29) is 100% Gamay, perfumed with aromas of roses and ripe red fruit that swirl expressively from a rich, mineral and structured palate.  This is a well balanced wine, fleshy with a delicate edge, finishing on a long spicy note.

Matthieu Mangenot of Domaines Albert Bichot

Mangenot spoke about the learning curve and challenges of producing wine in Bourgogne.

​Domaines Albert Bichot is producing wines for the future, transitioning to organic, and working to preserve each vineyard plot’s identity.  It is precise work, hand harvesting the vines, careful handling of the grapes during the winemaking process, and ageing the wines in oak without overpowering them, but well worth it.  The essence of each Burgundian village is captured in the bottle, a snapshot of the vintage year in liquid form.  Albert Bichot’s mantra, “Every vintage is a challenge; each wine is a unique story, a terroir to be revealed, a gem.”  Beautifully balanced, distinctive wines, delicious by the glass but especially wonderful with food, Albert Bichot's wines are well-priced and widely available.