For us mere wine-loving mortals, figuring out which wines are worthy of our hard-earned dollars can be a challenge, especially if you love Italian wines, with 20 regions, over 2000 varietals, and thousands of producers in play. Wine ratings can be tricky, depending on who you align your palate with. Gambero Rosso, Italy’s leading food and wine authority, publishes an annual Italian Wine guide, based on a simple Three Glass ratings system, or Tre Bicchieri. More than 70 expert tasters blind-taste over 45,000 wines every year, and only include those that they feel are above average, with less than 1% granted the top prize.
Celebrating 30 years of excellence, Gambero Rosso’s wine guide, Italian Wines 2017, contains more than 25,000 wine reviews and profiles of the passionate winemakers behind them. Only 429 wines are crowned with Tre Bicchieri, or “extraordinary wines”; the ratings system is as follows:
- Three Glasses “extraordinary wines”
- Two Red Glasses, wines that were considered for Three Glasses, but didn’t make it all the way
- Two Glasses, very good wines
- One Glass, good wines
Celebrating 30 years of excellence, Gambero Rosso’s wine guide, Italian Wines 2017, contains more than 25,000 wine reviews and profiles of the passionate winemakers behind them. Only 429 wines are crowned with Tre Bicchieri, or “extraordinary wines”; the ratings system is as follows:
- Three Glasses “extraordinary wines”
- Two Red Glasses, wines that were considered for Three Glasses, but didn’t make it all the way
- Two Glasses, very good wines
- One Glass, good wines
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Gambero Rosso came to Los Angeles, and poured hundreds of top wines from almost 200 producers for the trade and media, offering a preview of some of the spectacular Italian wines and top values that are imported to the US. Through an extended wine tasting in Barker Hanger at Santa Monica Airport, a veritable feast for the senses made a strong case for the wines and the guide.
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(L-R) Lorenzo Ruggeri, Marco Sabellico
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A Master Class and Special Awards seminar kicked off the event, designating nine wines as top in their class. Moderated by Gambero Rosso senior Editor-in-Chief Marco Sabellico and International Editor Lorenzo Ruggeri, the most surprising thing is that white wines received all the buzz, hogging 6 of the 9 categories. As Ruggeri explained, “We select a lot of white wines for awards, because the quality of white wines in Italy over the last year has increased tremendously, and we really see the best buys, in Italian wine at the moment, is white, it really comes at a fair price.”
Gambero Rosso Special Awards wines
Here are the top wines that earned a special nod:
Ruggeri & C. triumphed as Sparkler of the Year with its Valdobbiadene Extra Dry Giustino B. Prosecco 2015, the first time that Gambero Rosso gave this award to a tank-fermented sparkling wine. Sabellico said, “Giustino B. is the one we like most this year, it’s such a fresh, live, crispy, floral, fruity wine, that it’s so deliciously drinkable, we couldn’t resist the temptation of giving it this special award.”
Bellavista captured Winery of the Year with its sparkling Franciacorta Pas Operé 2009, a blend of 65% Chardonnay and 35% Pinot Noir, with zero sugar in the dosage, a cuvée of 60 different crus! Incredibly elegant in its texture and bubbles, it’s ripe yet fresh, and refined in its body and mineral quality.
BioVio landed Grower of the Year with their Riviera Ligure di Ponente Pigato Bon in da Bon 2015, and rightfully so, becoming the first winery to be certified organic in Italy in the 1980’s. Ruggeri noted, “It’s like a GPS, it brings you directly to the place of the region.” Liguria is one of the most difficult regions to grow wine grapes, because of the steep hills and rocky soils that rise above the Mediterranean Sea, where only boutique wineries make wine. This Pigato reflects the sea, savory with a saline touch, and bright aromas of citrus, basil, and rosemary, as Ruggeri explained, “it’s a wine that speaks with a slow voice but it has so much to say, it’s even a wine that will age wonderfully.”
Roccafiore lassoed the Sustainable Viticulture award with it’s Grechetto di Todi Fiorfiore 2014, where everything from solar panels to label ink is done in accordance with sustainable principles. Ruggeri observed that 2014 was the most challenging vintage Italy has had in the past 20 years, yet this relatively young winery pulled it off. A distinctive Grechetto, it has a kind of smoky character, really full bodied, rich, and round, with a lot of ripe apple on the palate.
Ruggeri & C. triumphed as Sparkler of the Year with its Valdobbiadene Extra Dry Giustino B. Prosecco 2015, the first time that Gambero Rosso gave this award to a tank-fermented sparkling wine. Sabellico said, “Giustino B. is the one we like most this year, it’s such a fresh, live, crispy, floral, fruity wine, that it’s so deliciously drinkable, we couldn’t resist the temptation of giving it this special award.”
Bellavista captured Winery of the Year with its sparkling Franciacorta Pas Operé 2009, a blend of 65% Chardonnay and 35% Pinot Noir, with zero sugar in the dosage, a cuvée of 60 different crus! Incredibly elegant in its texture and bubbles, it’s ripe yet fresh, and refined in its body and mineral quality.
BioVio landed Grower of the Year with their Riviera Ligure di Ponente Pigato Bon in da Bon 2015, and rightfully so, becoming the first winery to be certified organic in Italy in the 1980’s. Ruggeri noted, “It’s like a GPS, it brings you directly to the place of the region.” Liguria is one of the most difficult regions to grow wine grapes, because of the steep hills and rocky soils that rise above the Mediterranean Sea, where only boutique wineries make wine. This Pigato reflects the sea, savory with a saline touch, and bright aromas of citrus, basil, and rosemary, as Ruggeri explained, “it’s a wine that speaks with a slow voice but it has so much to say, it’s even a wine that will age wonderfully.”
Roccafiore lassoed the Sustainable Viticulture award with it’s Grechetto di Todi Fiorfiore 2014, where everything from solar panels to label ink is done in accordance with sustainable principles. Ruggeri observed that 2014 was the most challenging vintage Italy has had in the past 20 years, yet this relatively young winery pulled it off. A distinctive Grechetto, it has a kind of smoky character, really full bodied, rich, and round, with a lot of ripe apple on the palate.
White Wine of the Year
Tenuta di Tavignano won the White of the Year with its Verdicchio dei Castelli di Jesi Classico Superiore Misco 2015, a versatile wine that can be made in different styles, from sparkling to a late harvest dessert wine. Sabellico remarked, “This Verdicchio is the white wine of the year because it’s a good wine to understand the Italian philosophy in white winemaking. It’s a single vineyard, old vines, native varieties, no oak, and a long aging on the lees before being filtered and bottled, it’s a very interesting wine.”
And best bang for your buck? Tiberio wrapped up the Best Value for Money award, with it’s Pecorino 2015, a native varietal from the Marche region, similar in some ways to Sauvignon Blanc with its minerality and vegetal aromas. Ruggeri stated, “I find this wine really intriguing, it’s like chomping in the glass, such a punch of energy, such a vibrant acidity, savory with a really long finish.”
Istine snared the Up and Coming Winery with its Chianti Classico LeVigne Riserva 2013, a first for winemaker Angela Fronti, whose light touch was much appreciated by Gambero Rosso for its purity and balance. Ruggeri commented, “There is an idea in Italy that the riserva has to be more powerful, more concentration, more smoothness, more oak aging, here you have the opposite. What you have is a pure expression of Radda in Chianti Sangiovese, always expressed in such an elegant floral character. Violet, rose, small forest fruit, really crispy, almost crunchy, and then you will find in the glass a strong backbone, a lot of savory character and saltiness coming through. This is such a food-friendly wine, we say in Italian this is a gastronomico, a wine that calls for food.”
And best bang for your buck? Tiberio wrapped up the Best Value for Money award, with it’s Pecorino 2015, a native varietal from the Marche region, similar in some ways to Sauvignon Blanc with its minerality and vegetal aromas. Ruggeri stated, “I find this wine really intriguing, it’s like chomping in the glass, such a punch of energy, such a vibrant acidity, savory with a really long finish.”
Istine snared the Up and Coming Winery with its Chianti Classico LeVigne Riserva 2013, a first for winemaker Angela Fronti, whose light touch was much appreciated by Gambero Rosso for its purity and balance. Ruggeri commented, “There is an idea in Italy that the riserva has to be more powerful, more concentration, more smoothness, more oak aging, here you have the opposite. What you have is a pure expression of Radda in Chianti Sangiovese, always expressed in such an elegant floral character. Violet, rose, small forest fruit, really crispy, almost crunchy, and then you will find in the glass a strong backbone, a lot of savory character and saltiness coming through. This is such a food-friendly wine, we say in Italian this is a gastronomico, a wine that calls for food.”
Red Wine of the Year
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Chiaromonte scooped the Red of the Year with its Gioia del Colle Primitivo Muro Sant’Angelo Contrada Barbatto 2013, a big, ripe wine that confounded everyone with its imperceptible high alcohol of almost 17%. Winemaker Nicola Chiaromonte spoke of his special relationship with the land in the Puglia region, while Ruggeri translated, where 70-year-old vines from a single vineyard struggle to produce a mesmorizing wine, evoking an Amarone level of sweet energy. Primitivo is the forefather of California Zinfandel, so similar, yet different, this wine’s balance and refreshing acidity kept it from overpowering the palate.
Finally, Lis Neris swept the Sweet of the Year with its Tal Lùc Cuvée Speciale, a blend of 95% Verduzzo and 5% Riesling from the 2007-2008 vintages in the Friuli region. An extremely small production of this complex wine may leave fans wanting for more, with so much sweetness balanced by acidity, it finishes clean and vibrant. Sabellico pronounced it unique, “you find everything in this wine, a never-ending finish, constantly changing”, with tropical fruit, saffron, and herbal aromas and flavors, aged in oak that was so integrated you didn’t even notice it.
Finally, Lis Neris swept the Sweet of the Year with its Tal Lùc Cuvée Speciale, a blend of 95% Verduzzo and 5% Riesling from the 2007-2008 vintages in the Friuli region. An extremely small production of this complex wine may leave fans wanting for more, with so much sweetness balanced by acidity, it finishes clean and vibrant. Sabellico pronounced it unique, “you find everything in this wine, a never-ending finish, constantly changing”, with tropical fruit, saffron, and herbal aromas and flavors, aged in oak that was so integrated you didn’t even notice it.
Tre Bicchieri embodies an incredible renaissance of Italian wine, from Allegrini’s Amarone della Valpolicella Classico 2012, the most highly awarded Amarone ever, that had a lightness of being, to Primosic’s Collio Ribolla Gialla di Oslavia Riserva 2012, the orange wine that packed the wow factor; from the mineral and crisp Torre a Oriente Falanghina del Sannio Biancuzita 2014 to Pietradolce’s Etna Rosso V. Barbagalli 2013 whose pre-phylloxera 120-year-old vines channel the volcanic soils of Sicily’s Mt.Etna; from Tenuta San Guido’s iconic and freaking delicious Bolgheri Sassicaia to Italo Cescon’s Madre 2014, a vivacious Manzoni Bianco organic wine; from Vignalta’s Colli Euganei Rosso Gemola 2004, a prior Tre Bicchieri winner still fantastic after all this time, to Elena Walch’s Gewurztraminer Vigna Kastelaz 2015 with its intense bouquet and spice. There were so many fabulous wines, it’s impossible to mention them all. It’s best to purchase the Gambero Rosso guide and work your way through the fascinating cornucopia of wine that is Italy, cheers!