If you’ve never experienced Israeli wines, you are in for a treat. With the Jewish “High Holy Days” of Rosh Hashanah and Yom Kippur approaching, this is the perfect time to broaden your horizons and discover the wine gems that Israel has to offer.
The Middle East has a history of winemaking rooted in antiquity, but today’s wines are virtually unknown to most wine drinkers. When Islamic rule banned wine over five hundred years ago, the art of winemaking was lost. But a wine renaissance has happened over the past 125 years. Young Israeli winemakers, armed with newfound knowledge and technology from time in classic wine regions, returned to evolve their wine industry. Today, almost 300 wineries, mostly smaller boutique operations, produce a dazzling array of quality wines.
Most Israeli wines are kosher, but aren’t the sweet Manischewitz wines that many associate with the label. If you’re wondering if kosher wines taste any different, the answer is no. To be labeled kosher, only a Sabbath-observant or Orthodox Jew may handle the grapes, from the time they enter the winery until bottling. Non Jewish personnel can be involved, as long as they don’t handle the wine in barrel or tank. Another kosher regulation, no animal-based additives may be added, making kosher wine also vegan.
Although most of Israel is too hot and dry to grow high quality wine grapes, there are cool climate areas where they can thrive. The Golan Heights is one such region, situated in the northeast corner of Israel, a high elevation plateau, with diverse soils over a volcanic base. It has the coolest climate in Israel, and altitudes range from Mount Hermon, at 3900 feet, to the Sea of Galilee. International grape varietals are planted here today, since Israel’s ancient vineyards weren’t kept up, with a heavy emphasis on Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot, and Chardonnay. Here, two special wineries craft intriguing wines under the Yarden umbrella. Recently, I had the opportunity to sample four wines from Golan Heights Winery and Galil Mountain Winery.
Golan Heights Winery, established in 1983 through several cooperatives, is headed by winemaker Victor Schoenfeld. Schoenfeld, considered one of the most important winemakers in Israel, is responsible for crafting four premium brands, Yarden (the flagship), Golan, Gamla, and Hermon. These wines range from sparkling wines to full-bodied reds, and reflect the care of precise viticulture and attention to detail of modern technology, yielding some of the best wines that Israel has to offer.
Mount Hermon Moscato 2019 (SRP $12.99) is an aromatic and lively wine, refreshingly sweet at 6% ABV. Made from Muscat Canelli, fermentation was stopped early to achieve this lightly sparkling and pleasant wine. Aromas of citrus, flowers and tropical fruit swirl into a delicious melange of mango, pineapple, and melon on the palate. Perfect as an aperitif but would also make delicious cocktails, and a great pairing with fruit-based desserts.
Gilgal Sauvignon Blanc 2019 (SRP $19.99) is aromatic and round, juicy and balanced, with guava, melon, pineapple, and lemon notes. This is a generous wine, with so many layers, the round fruit, savory herbs, a grassy quality and salinity that encourages another sip. A very nice wine, it makes you fall in love with Sauvignon Blanc all over again, either by the glass or paired with chicken, fish, or goat cheese.
Yarden Cabernet Sauvignon 2017 (SRP $35.99) is a classic Cabernet, full-bodied and concentrated, with ripe black and red fruit (plum, blackberry, and dark cherry), accented by tobacco, bitter chocolate, earth, spice and herbal notes, within a framework of French oak. The wine benefits from at least 30 minutes of air in the glass before drinking, growing in complexity and fullness. A good companion to sturdy dishes such as lamb, steak, or duck.
Galil Mountain Winery, located in the Upper Galilee mountains, is a joint venture of Golan Heights Winery and Kibbutz Yiron. Winemaker Micha Vaadia is committed to sustainable farming practices, “viticulture and winemaking in harmony with nature”, and with minimal handling of the fruit, pristine wines are made that reflect this distinctive terroir. Over two dozen white, rosé, and red wines are produced, mostly all from Bordeaux and Rhône grape varietals.
Galil Mountain Winery Merlot 2018 (SRP $15.99) is rich in flavor, silky with a long, spicy finish. Blackberry, wild berry, plum fruit integrate with notes of Mediterranean herbs, cassis, chocolate, and leather, along with a hint of graphite on the finish. So very Bordeaux-like in character, it blossomed in the glass and mouth after 30 minutes, gaining fullness and complexity. This is a wonderful wine that will accompany most any dish, and is succulent by the glass.
Rosh Hashanah commemorates the creation of the world, and is considered the Jewish New Year, marked in 2020 from Sunset Friday September 18th through Sunday September 20th. It’s the beginning of a 10-day period of introspection and repentance, called the Days of Awe, which ends with Yom Kippur, the Day of Atonement. These two “High Holy Days” in the Jewish religion is generally a time for celebration and family, marked by special foods and kosher wines. Unfortunately, in 2020, it’s not feasible to enjoy the holidays in traditional ways, but with Zoom and family gatherings at home, there’s a lot to celebrate. And even if you’re not Jewish, these kosher wines are intriguingly delicious and deserve a place at the table.
Note: These wines can be found at some grocery stores or wine shops nationwide, or through KosherWine.com. For Los Angeles, here is a list of markets that carry all but the Sauvignon Blanc.
In Los Angeles:
Glatt Mart
Pico Glatt Mart
Ariel Kosher
Ralph’s Pico and Beverly
In the San Fernando Valley:
Super Sal
Mr. Kosher
Cambridge Farms
Note: These wines can be found at some grocery stores or wine shops nationwide, or through KosherWine.com. For Los Angeles, here is a list of markets that carry all but the Sauvignon Blanc.
In Los Angeles:
Glatt Mart
Pico Glatt Mart
Ariel Kosher
Ralph’s Pico and Beverly
In the San Fernando Valley:
Super Sal
Mr. Kosher
Cambridge Farms