Named for the Rogue River, that runs from Crater Lake to the Pacific Ocean, Oregon’s Rogue Valley is an up and coming wine region.   A diverse agricultural cradle gives rise to a large number of wine grape varietals and an amazing array of produce, a recipe for fabulous wine country cuisine.  But, it’s not all food and wine, the Rogue Valley is an outdoor enthusiast’s paradise, with more strenuous activities such as hiking, skiing, mountain biking, and river rafting, or more leisurely golfing, fishing, and camping, all at your fingertips.  And the charm and culture that is Ashland offers big city pleasures on a smaller scale, with its world-class theater and dining, attracting hundreds of thousands of visitors every year.  But the thread that connects all facets of the Rogue Valley is a love affair with food and wine, and a commitment to the land, where organic is big and biodynamic is gaining ground.

Deeply connected to the environment, the Rogue Valley is committed to pristine agriculture, with local support of organic farming through its weekly series of Rogue Valley Growers and Crafters Market.  The markets offer seasonal produce and products from May through October, open in Ashland on Tuesdays and Saturdays, and rotating among the surrounding communities the other days.  A stunning array of mushrooms, fruit, and local specialties, such as Yak Pepperoni and Merlot Wine Smoked Salmon make for a fun treasure hunt among the booths.

The Ashland Food Cooperative is a beehive of activity, focused on certified organic foods that are also non-GMO.  The coop is the first and only Certified Organic Retailer in Southern Oregon, guaranteeing organic integrity from farm to table with affordable prices, fulfilling their mission statement, “Save the planet, buy organic”.

Weisinger Family Winery

Felipe wrangles thirsty wine tasters at Weisinger Family Winery's tasting room

Irvine & Roberts Vineyards

Irvine & Roberts specializes in Pinot Noir

DANCIN Vineyards

Dan Marca proudly pours his DANCIN Vineyards Chardonnay

Wineries dot the Rogue Valley, rooted in its soils and micro-climates which has become a diverse wine scene, more than just Pinot Noir for which Oregon is so famous for.  It’s warmer here than in the Willamette Valley, reminiscent of Bordeaux and the Mediterranean, and can support warm weather varietals such as Tempranillo (a local star), Malbec, Syrah, Merlot, Cabernet Sauvignon, and Viognier.  In the cooler parts of the Valley, Pinot Noir, Chardonnay and Sauvignon Blanc have planted their flag, bringing a different expression than their cooler cousins up north.  There are 33 wineries and 88 vineyards in the Rogue Valley AVA, one of four wine growing sub-appellations in the greater Southern Oregon AVA.  With four wine trails to traverse, there’s a lot to discover.  In my next article, I’ll dive deep into some of these wineries, exposing a vibrant wine culture.

This mural commemorates Ashland's sister city, Guanajuato, Mexico

Although Medford is the largest city in the Rogue Valley, Ashland is perhaps the best known community.  Founded in 1889, Ashland has a rich history, starting as a Gold Rush town that transitioned into lumber and flour milling in the mid 1800’s.  Its success ultimately was tied to the completion of the railroad circle around the US, celebrated with the 1887 Golden Spike that signified open commerce across the country.  With transportation made easy, Ashland’s economy thrived, attracting wealthy families that brought education, arts, and culture to the area, and briefly flirting with a spa resort experience, where tourists would partake of the healing Lithia Springs waters.  Today, it is the home of Southern Oregon University and the Oregon Shakespeare Festival, powerful drivers of the community.  Lithia Park, a 93-acre wonder of duck ponds, hiking trails, picnic areas, tennis courts, a Japanese garden, and a playground is the green heart of town.  Stretching from the downtown plaza to near Mt. Ashland, it’s name “Lithia” refers to the lithium found in the natural spring water, which has a distinctive sulfur odor.  Charming shops line the picturesque streets, a great place to shop for mementos and gifts, with a quirky sense of style.  Festivals abound in Ashland, from the Ashland Culinary Festival in November that spotlights food, craft cocktails and a Top Chef competition for local chefs, and include many other food, beer, spirit and wine events throughout the year.

Greta Oglesby (L) gave us writers an excellent backstage tour

Ashland is the jewel of the Rogue Valley, with its multi-faceted charms of history, culture, the great outdoors, food and wine.  It truly deserves its social media monikor #ashlandasyoulikeit, with something for everyone.  At its heart is the world renowned Oregon Shakespeare Festival, drawing close to 400,000 avid theater patrons every year.  For eight months, March through October, eleven plays rotate among three intimate theaters.  We saw “Hairspray”, a rousing production with an incredibly talented cast.  An extra treat for theater buffs, in-depth backstage tours are available, mine was led by Greta Oglesby, whom I’d just seen receive a standing ovation for her solo as Motormouth Maybelle in Hairspray.  Her enthusiasm and insights really brought this theater experience to life, I can’t wait to go back for the next season of festival plays.

Ashland is a culinary destination as well, with over a hundred restaurants serving a local population of 20,000 and tourists galore.  Ethnic specialties abound, as well as classic wine country cuisine.  Here are some of the restaurants I had the chance to experience:

Brickroom, a recent addition to the Plaza area of Ashland, lures diners in with its historic architecture and amiable charm.  Chef Skye Elder and Mixologist Blake Henry have created an inviting space, billed as “Ashland’s Gathering House”.  Open for breakfast, lunch and dinner, they offer a wide variety of dishes, along with craft cocktails, beer, and local wines on tap!

Larks Restaurant, located in the Ashland Springs Hotel, is the perfect spot for a pre-theater dinner.  Farm to table, where local ingredients and wines top the list, Larks spotlights the bounty of the Rogue Valley, with seasonal menus based on what is fresh and growing at the moment.

Harvey’s Place on the Main drag, serves dinner every day, with a focus on Northwest dishes, from appetizers, soups, salads, and entrees, accompanied by cocktails, beer, and regional wines, and local wines are available by the glass.

Alchemy Restaurant & Bar, nestled inside of the Winchester Inn, has rightly earned its many praises.  Dining areas wind throughout the first floor, with a gleaming, extensive bar one level lower that offers over 200 spirits to create intriguing cocktails or enjoy straight up, embracing the meaning of “alchemy”.  Focused on Oregon wines, the wine list has many local gems as well as Willamette Valley stars.  Fresh local ingredients populate the seasonal-inspired menus, and the service is superb.  And if you want to stay past dinner, the luxurious inn has 21 rooms tricked out with the finest, earning it Conde Nast’s “Best in the US” “Top 75” list.

Ruby’s of Ashland is a local favorite, a casual spot between the Historic Railroad District and downtown, serving specialty burritos and sandwiches that are “Globally Inspired, Locally Sourced”, in addition to house-made refreshments, coffees, beer, wine and cocktails.

Peerless Restaurant & Bar truly embraces the meaning of “peerless”, it’s a casually sophisticated space with indoor and outdoor dining areas and a neighborhood bar, attached to a world-class hotel, which was named one of the “10 Best Wine Country Hotels” in the US by USA Today.  Within this beautiful space, exquisite food and service are doled out, with Oregon wines taking the spotlight.

Sesame Asian Kitchen serves Asian fusion dishes, along with beer, wine, sake and specialty cocktails.  The generous portions and fresh ingredients make for shareable and delightful dining, and the unusual spin on mocktails are tasty and beautiful.

Of the many lodging possibilities in Ashland, there are two highly recommended hotels, for different reasons.  In the heart of downtown, the elegant Ashland Springs Hotel harkens back to a more gentile era, originally built in 1925.  The tallest building in Ashland, located in the center of town, it has attracted visitors with its grandeur and amenities for 95 years.  The historic hotel underwent a complete renovation in the past 20 years, bringing modern sensibilities to its 70 rooms, offering plush comfort just steps from the theaters, shops, and restaurants.  Some of the original features are preserved, such as the stained glass window bearing the LH crest over the front entrance (a reference to a previous incarnation, the Lithia Hotel).  Comfy beds with Frette linens and down pillows and comforters, spa-like bathrooms with Gilchrist & Soames bath amenities, monogrammed cotton robes, and hi-tech pleasures such as flat-screen TVs and Wi-Fi make the rooms a perfect nest.  Interestingly, this bird theme appears throughout the hotel, as the designers felt it a perfect fit for Ashland.  Included with a stay is a deluxe continental breakfast, afternoon and evening tea and cookies, and complimentary parking.  Onsite, the Waterstone Spa offers discounted rates to guests, and Larks Restaurant is a convenient and delicious dining spot.

The Lithia Springs Resort, located a couple of miles outside downtown Ashland, embraces the spa reputation that Ashland was known for.  Curative springs underneath the resort emerge in the mineral sulfur water, claiming healing and restorative benefits.  These waters can be enjoyed in your own private soaking tub, with jacuzzi spouts, and individual room showers.  Water is the theme at the resort, with an outdoor saline swimming pool and Jacuzzi, Koi pond, and fountains on the grounds.  Thirty-eight bungalows, suites, and studios are nestled among the greenery, with private nooks and hideaways tucked in along the paths.  Complimentary hot breakfast buffet, afternoon tea with baked goods and fruit, free hotel parking, and Wi-Fi are some of the treats.  In the lobby building, two fireplaces, a library, and bar serving local Oregon wines offer a place to lounge, in addition to the outside Wine Garden.  Wild turkeys and other wildlife roam through the grassy areas, adding to the outdoor experience.  Waterstone Spa also has an outpost at the resort, offering a host of spa services.

On a separate jaunt to visit a couple of wineries in the Applegate Valley, we briefly stopped in Jacksonville, located in the foothills of the Siskiyou Mountains.  A quaint town with Gold Rush history, it beckons you to linger, strolling among the shops, an easy thing to do, since the main drag is just a few blocks long.  For a small town, there is lots to do, with a lively cultural scene, concerts and live music performances are plentiful, and a place for artists to thrive, plus a variety of dining options.  Designated a National Historic Landmark in 1962, Jacksonville has remained frozen in time physically, while it’s spirit has infused its modern sensibilities.  On a hill overlooking the town, there is an unusual historic cemetery, dating back to 1859.  Jacksonville Cemetery is divided into seven sections, according to religion and fraternal organizations, even a Potter’s Field, and contains some of the oldest pioneer graves in the region, with many family plots and stories on the gravestones.

The outdoor patio at Weisinger Family Winery

The Ashland Chamber of Commerce sponsored a group of food, wine and travel writers to explore the region over five days, and we all were smitten with its natural beauty, friendly and unhurried pace, cornucopia of food and wines, and generous spirit.  There is so much more to know and experience about the region than what I’ve listed, Ashland and the Rogue Valley are worthy of further exploration.

Ashland and the Rogue Valley are easily accessible, either by car with the I-5 cutting directly through it, or by plane, Medford is the main hub for flights, I flew a non-stop from Los Angeles to Medford on American Airlines, an easy 2 hour plus trip.