Wine Along The 101
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    • 2023 Articles >
      • Simply Italian Great Wines US Tour 2022, A Brief Look at the Complex World of Italian Wine
      • A Night of Sicilian Wine, Spotlighting Cambria and Madaudo Wineries
      • Yealands Wines, “Think Boldly, Tread Lightly”, Leading the World Toward Sustainable Winemaking
    • 2022 Articles >
      • Further Defining the Single Vineyard Cru Wines of Barolo and Barbaresco, the Rise of the MGA
      • The Barolo Cru Wines of Beni di Batasiolo
      • Pyros Wines Sparks World-Class Malbec
      • AlloraVino Imports, a Love Affair with Italian Wine
      • Maisons Marques & Domaines Wine Portfolio: Prestige, Glamour and Good Taste for the Holidays
      • The Original Balsamic Vinegar of Modena PGI, a Condiment and a Culture
      • Rocca delle Macìe, Taking Chianti Classico to New Heights
      • Alluring and Iconic, The World of Chianti Wines
      • Paso Robles Weaves a Thrilling Tapestry of World-Class Wine
      • LXV Wines, The Spice of Paso Robles
      • The Mouthwatering Sauvignon Blancs of Chile
      • The Wines of Portugal, Discover a World of Difference
      • Domaines Albert Bichot, An Exceptional Approach to Burgundian Wine
      • The Wines of Abruzzo Undergo a Renaissance of Quality
      • Ketcham Estate, Exceptional Wines From The Heart of the Russian River Valley
      • La Rioja Alta, S.A., Innovation and Tradition That Stands the Test of Time
      • Vega Sicilia Celebrates 40 Years of Winemaking Excellence
      • Planeta of Sicily Embraces the Past While Reaching For the Future
      • The Spirit of Renaissance is Alive and Well in “South of Somewhere”
      • Gambero Rosso Returns to LA, With the Best of Italian Wines
      • Falanghina and Aglianico del Taburno, Sannio's Ancient Wine Stars
      • Tablas Creek Vineyard Embraces Regenerative Organic Farming
    • 2021 Articles >
      • Make Merry With Domaine Bousquet Sparkling Wines
      • Discover These Enchanting Italian Wines, From the Fog of Piedmont to the Island Breezes of Sardinia
      • Rodney Strong Vineyards and Winery, Revitalizing an Iconic Brand
      • Thanksgiving Tips for the Best Wine and Food Pairing
      • Escape to Paso Robles, a Wine Country Oasis
      • Escape to Paso Robles, a Wonderland of Wine
      • Smith-Madrone Wines, a Napa Valley Pioneer Celebrates Fifty Years of Excellence
      • Oregon’s Willamette Valley, the Land of Pinot Noir
      • Irvine & Roberts Vineyards, Exceptional Pinot Noir and Chardonnay from Southern Oregon
      • BARRA of Mendocino Wines, an Original Organic Wine Play
      • The Opulent and Thrilling Wines of Denner Vineyards
      • L’Ecole No. 41, Expressive Wines That Pass the Test of Time With Flying Colors
      • France's Loire Valley, a Fairytale Land of Storybook Castles and Magical Wines
      • Craft Wine, Shining the Spotlight on America’s Small Wine Producers
    • 2020 Articles >
      • Margerum Wine Company, the Nexus of Sublime Santa Barbara County Wines
      • Catena Zapata, Malbec on High
      • Long Meadow Ranch, the Circle of Life in a Glass of Wine
      • Fontanafredda Barolo Forges a New Future
      • Bordeaux Wine 2017, Surprises in a Challenging Vintage
    • 2019 Articles >
      • The Rising Wine Country of Southern Oregon's Rogue Valley
      • Discover Ashland and the Rogue Valley, Southern Oregon's Serenade to the Good Life
      • Napa Valley Grille, New Fall Menu Paired with European Wines
      • Embrace Your Wine Geek with PRIE Winery & Vineyards
      • Castello di Albola, Chianti Classico on High
      • Nicolas-Jay Wines, the Journey of a Lifetime
      • The Expanding Complexity of New Zealand Wine
      • Prosecco DOC, Splendor in the Glass
      • On the Oregon Wine Trail
      • Albariño and Rioja Star in Spain’s Great Match
      • Exciting and Eclectic, the Wines of Alentejo
      • Blaufränkisch Propels the Red Wines of Austria Into the Spotlight
      • Fascinating Greek Wines of the Cava Spiliadis Collection
      • Revolution In Rioja Wine
    • 2018 Articles >
      • Temecula Valley Celebrates 50 Years of Winemaking
      • The Stellar Wines of Sardinia
      • Italian Wines Prescribed by Doctor Wine
      • The Alluring Wines of Tunisia
      • Gambero Rosso’s Top Italian Wines for 2018
      • Velenosi Wines, From Le Marche to the World
      • Sauvignon Blanc, a Rising Star in Napa Valley
      • Frank Family Vineyards Celebrates 25 Years
      • Markus Wine Co., Sleek New Red Wines Up the Ante for Lodi Reds
      • Lodi Wine, Over 100 Varieties Strong
      • Ramona Valley Wine Country, an Up and Coming Wine Region
      • Hertelendy Vineyards, the Pursuit of Excellence
      • Napa Valley Wine, Nirvana in a Bottle
      • Wine Stroll: Explore Downtown Paso Robles Wineries
      • The Beautiful Shades of Lodi Rosé Wines
      • Doubling Down on Gold Medal Wines: The San Francisco International Wine Competition
      • The Exotic Wines of Lebanon
      • Australian Wines, Rediscover the New Frontier
      • New Zealand Wines, Expanding beyond Sauvignon Blanc
      • Visit France in 2018, a Feast of Food, Wine, Culture and History
      • Bordeaux Wine 2015, A Very Good Year
      • Portugal's Treasure Chest of Wines
      • Livermore Valley, California’s Original Wine Country Reborn
      • Concannon and Wente Vineyards, California’s Pioneers of Cabernet Sauvignon and Chardonnay
      • Livermore Valley Wine Country, the Future Looks Bright
    • 2017 Articles >
      • Viña Ardanza Rioja Turns 75, an Enchanting Wine Gets Even Better
      • The VIP Sparkle of Prosecco Superiore
      • Lodi Wine Country, Seriously Good Wine From A to Z
      • Lodi Wine Country, Old Vines and Great Wines
      • Lodi Wine Country, Winegrowers and Winemakers Focused on the Future
      • Lugana White Wine, Better With Age
      • Santa Barbara Winemakers Road Trip to LA
      • Sweetzer Cellars, a Life Changing Journey of Wine
      • Lugana and Valpolicella, the Yin and Yang of the Veneto
      • Three R’s of Summer Wine, Rosé, Riesling, and Ramato
      • Familia Martínez Bujanda, Wines Without Borders
      • Codorníu Cava, the Ars and Anna Collection
      • New and Exciting Wines from the 2017 Santa Barbara Vintners Spring Weekend Celebration
      • Sensual Delights on Display at Savor Italy Los Angeles
      • Pizza and Franco Pepe, Italy’s Best Comes to LA
      • Montes Wines, Wisdom in Wine From Father to Son
      • Passionate Pinot Noir Lovers Unite at the 2017 World of Pinot
      • Vignalta, Wines of the Highest Order
      • Santa Lucia Highlands Sensational Wines
      • Gambero Rosso’s Top Italian Wines for 2017
      • Law Estate Wines: Quality by Design
      • Taittinger and Calvisius: Champagne and Caviar Dreams
      • Riding High on American Rhone Wines, The Rhone Rangers LA Tasting
      • Discover Monterey Wine Country, wine and so much more
      • Wines of Portugal, the Perfect Dinner Companion
      • Gruet's Enchanting Sparkling Wines
    • 2016 Articles >
      • The Art of Italian Living, SoCal Style
      • Wines of Alsace: Perfect for the Holidays
      • Oso Libre Winery; Vines, Wines, and Angus Beef
      • Best Wines for Thanksgiving
      • Simply Italian Great Wines US Tour Sweeps Through Los Angeles
      • Santa Barbara Winemakers Road Trip: Chardonnay
      • Santa Barbara Winemakers Road Trip: Pinot Noir
      • Santa Barbara Winemakers Road Trip: Rhône Varietals
      • Santa Barbara Winemakers Road Trip: Bordeaux Varietals
      • Achaval-Ferrer, Exceptional Wines from Argentina
      • Celebration of Harvest Grand Tasting 2016 Highlights
      • The Celebrity Sparkle of Ferrari Trento Wines
      • Santa Barbara Wine Country’s Celebration of Harvest 2016
      • The Garagiste Festival, Off the Beaten Path Wines
      • Explore SLO Wine Country, Central California’s Hidden Gem
      • Byron Winery, The Grand Pinot Noir Experiment
      • Crocker & Starr Wines, Organically Elegant
      • Escape to Santa Maria Wine Country
      • The Elegant White Wines of Domäne Wachau
      • Champagne Palmer: The New Champagne on the Block
      • Holman Ranch & Vineyards: Making Memories & Wine at Romantic California Hideaway
      • Luminous Wines of France's Loire Valley
    • Examiner.com Articles >
      • Alma Rosa Winery & Vineyards: Wines Without Compromise
      • All Stars of Pinot Noir Rock the 2016 World of Pinot
      • Ampelos Wines' Biodynamic Brilliance
      • Artisan Uprising: Blood Into Wine
      • Bodegas Beronia Rioja: The Magic of Oak
      • Crawford Family Wines: Unlocking Varietal Flavor
      • Dolin Malibu Estate Vineyards' Chardonnays and Pinot Noirs Shine Bright
      • Hahn Family Wines: Santa Lucia Highlands' Sweet Spot
      • Kimmel Vineyards: Good Wine Flows from Challenging Times
      • Larner Vineyard: Sweet Spot for Syrah and Grenache
      • LOCA for Lodi Wine
      • Lompoc Wine Ghetto
      • Sanford Winery & Vineyards, Delicious Wines That Tell a Tale
      • The Diverse and Divine Wines of Santa Barbara County
      • Santa Barbara Urban Wine Trail
      • The Stellar Wines of California's Sta. Rita Hills
      • Skinner Vineyards, Destiny and Determination
      • Wines of Portugal, The Art of the Blend
  • Wine Reviews
    • Lucky Rock Wine Co. 2021 Sauvignon Blanc, in Can and Bottle
    • Coen Malbec Reserve 2019, a New World Wine with Old World Sensibilities
    • Sangre de Toro Rosé, A Light and Bright Summer Thirst Quencher
    • Summer and Sauvignon Blanc, Lucky Rock Wine Co. Style
    • Lucky Rock Wine Co. County Cuvée Pinot Noir 2019
    • Monte Velho, Fascinating Wines and Value-Priced
    • Grassl Glasses Add Depth to Wine Enjoyment
    • Domaine Bousquet Sparkling Rosé Brut Makes Everyday a Holiday
    • Festive Ferrari Trento Sparkling Wines For All Occasions
    • Bodegas CARO, the Best of Both Worlds
    • Kosher Wines For the Jewish High Holidays Are Highly Recommended Anytime of Year
    • Oak Farm Vineyards, a Rainbow of Delicious Lodi Wines
    • Lucky Rock Wine Co. Sauvignon Blanc 2019
    • Ron Rubin Wines, The Dream Series
    • Lucky Rock Wine Co. County Cuvée Pinot Noir 2018
    • Lucky Rock Wine Co. Sauvignon Blanc 2018
    • Crus Bourgeois Bordeaux, Expressive Wines at Everyday Prices
    • Légende Collection of Bordeaux Wines
    • Five Contemporary California Wines To Try
    • Alternative Sparkling Wines For a Celebration
    • A Toast to Prosecco Superiore
    • Celebrate with this Pair of Spanish Red Wines
    • A Quartet of Summer Red Wines
    • Spanish Albariño, a Wine For All Seasons
    • Ciù Ciù Wines, Quality That Shines Through
    • A Trio of Red Wines for Holiday Merrymaking
    • Terre de la Custodia Montefalco Rosso 2012
    • The Sultry Arnaldo Caprai Collepiano Montefalco Sagrantino
    • Pop the Cork on Charles Heidsieck Champagne and Bisol Prosecco
    • Garnacha Wines from DOP Cariñena, Beautiful Bang for the Buck
    • A Pair of Greek Wines for a Spring Feast
    • A Dynamic Duo of Sassy Spanish White Wines
    • Anderra Carménere
    • Artesa Chardonnay/Pinot Noir
    • Avignonesi Grandi Annate
    • Château Saint-Maur Rosé
    • La Miranda de Secastilla, Old Vine Garnacha Gems
    • Intriguing Israeli Wines
    • Leviathan
    • Domaines Paul Mas Wines Trio
    • Nobilo Sauvignon Blanc, intensely refreshing and delicious
    • Perticaia Trebbiano Spoletino
    • Stay Cool With These Two Charming White Wines
  • Events
    • Garagiste Wine Festival: Urban Exposure 2022 Highlights Hidden California Wine Gems
    • Temecula Valley Balloon & Wine Festival 2019
    • World of Pinot Noir 2019, A Magical Mystery Tour
    • Journey to Planet Pinot at the 2018 World of Pinot Noir
    • Great Wines of Italy Comes to LA
    • Wine Along the Beach at Garagiste Wine Festival 2017
    • Santa Barbara Vintners Spring Weekend Celebration 2017
    • Orbit the World of Pinot Noir at the 2017 World of Pinot
    • Rhone Rangers Los Angeles 2016
  • Wine Travel
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    • Celebration of Harvest
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    • Que Syrah, Shiraz!
    • Paso Robles Wine Festival
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    • Clos Pepe's Prince of Pinot
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​While Napa Valley has become Ground Zero for the most lush and intense versions of Cabernet Sauvignon in the US, it is also home to the most expressive Riesling, made by brothers and co-owners Stuart and Charles Smith of Smith-Madrone Vineyards & Winery.  Their fifty year journey is a testament to grit and soil, vision and sweat, and determination to continue translating their sense of place to a tangible treat in a glass.
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Smith-Madrone Vineyard, Photo by Matthew Denny
​Smith-Madrone was founded in 1971 on Spring Mountain outside of St. Helena by then aspiring winemaker Stu Smith.  In what was a landscape dominated by cattle, Stu saw something in this rural mountain property, a promise of greatness if enough hard work was thrown at it.  Joined by his brother Charles a couple of years later, they worked to transform this forest and former 1880’s vineyard, which had been decimated by phylloxera, into today’s family-run operation, all estate-grown wines that are widely acclaimed for their authenticity and elegance.
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Sam, Stu, and Charlie Smith, Photo by Meg Smith
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Madrone trees, Photo by Kelly Puleio
The name Smith-Madrone obviously refers to the Smiths, but also to the beautiful Madrone evergreen trees that dot the property.  A limited partnership, Stu is co-owner and General Partner, while brother Charlie, also co-owner, is the Winemaker, and Stu’s son, Sam, is the Assistant Winemaker, carrying on a tradition of crafting distinctive mountain wine.  They specialize in Chardonnay, Cabernet Sauvignon, and their world-class Riesling, but also grow Merlot and Cabernet Franc.
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Smith-Madrone vineyards, Photo by Matthew Denny
Thirty-eight acres of the 200-acre property are planted to vineyards, allowing Stu to farm efficiently and sustainably.  The vineyards were planted intentionally with different exposures for the specific varietals: Riesling gets eastern exposure, Chardonnay on the cooler north-facing slopes, and Cabernet Sauvignon planted for southern and western exposure.  Refining their vision, Smith-Madrone has adopted dry farming, and is focused on the soil.  The Smiths work on soil erosion, keeping a permanent cover crop all year.
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Stu Smith, Photo by Thomas Sanders
Smith-Madrone has received many accolades over the years, starting with their first vintage of 1977 Riesling, landing them on the wine producing map, and since, their Riesling has consistently been named as one of the best Rieslings in the world.  Over the years, Stu Smith has been recognized as a pioneer and champion of hillside grapegrowing, and named as one of Wine’s Most Inspiring People in 2018 by Wine Industry Advisor.  When I visited Napa Valley in 2018, all the buzz was about Smith-Madrone’s Riesling, a must taste in the land of big red wine.
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Glass Fire, Photo by Stu Smith
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Glass Fire, Photo by Stu Smith
But after fifty years of winemaking excellence, Smith-Madrone faces a devastating challenge with the effects of climate change.  Smith reflected, “We’ve experienced catastrophic fires over the past 6 years, starting with Lake County in 2015, and then every year from 2017 through 2020”.  Last year’s Glass Fire put Smith-Madrone directly in the crosshairs, in what was one of the warmest and driest years on record.  While the fire started across the valley from Smith-Madrone, it rapidly exploded and tore across the valley floor through its dry creek beds, ending up at Spring Mountain on the first day.  And although Stu had been preparing for a possible fire threat that day, he thought all was well for the evening, and went home.  But the fire raced up Spring Mountain that evening, and he received a call that his property was on fire.  Charlie, Stu and Sam returned immediately, to fight the fire on the frontlines in a hair-raising tale that lasted for nine days.  Holed up in a life-threatening battle with a savage fire that threatened them from several directions, Smith-Madrone was lucky, beating it back to their property line.  They didn’t lose any structures, although there was damage to gates and posts, but the trees and forest were weakened and many of them died, creating a bigger fire threat for the future.  Dozens of wineries were damaged or destroyed over the 23 days that the Glass Fire raged, changing lives and wine in Napa Valley.  For Smith-Madrone, there may be no 2020 vintage due to smoke taint, even though everything was harvested.
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Sam, Stu, and Charlie with the fruits of their labor, literally! Photo by Mike Dunne
Surviving the 2020 Glass Fire and Covid pandemic, 2021 is shaping up to be an even bigger threat.  With a historic drought making California as dry in May as it usually is in August and September, Stu is deathly afraid of another wildfire.  Insurance companies are pulling out of covering wineries because of the extreme risk, and Stu has had to pay 4-1/2 times what he normally pays, expecting to have to operate without insurance during this year.  But beyond the financial, there is also the emotional toll of pouring your heart and soul into making beautiful wine from the land that you love, but having that promise snatched away right before the dream can be realized for that vintage year.  California vintners need help to weather the storm heading their way from private and government resources, to manage the forests and change the human-forest interface amid the global warming that is changing our way of life.
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Stu Smith, Photo by Kelly Puleio
Interviewed for the Food & Wine documentery “Embers & Vines”, Stu was philosophical about wildfires, “Being a farmer, you have to be an eternal optimist but at the same time you have to be an eternal pessimist.  So you have those two emotions that are driving you, and are in conflict with you, that you have to live with.”
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I had the privilege and pleasure of a Smith-Madrone Zoom tasting with Stu Smith in May, and sampled three of his fabulous wines, the Chardonnay, Riesling, and Cabernet Sauvignon.  In the cooler, higher elevation vineyards of Spring Mountain, Smith has found a place to practice his Euro-centric vision of winemaking, which encompasses balance, complexity, elegance and most importantly, restraint.
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The 2017 Smith-Madrone Chardonnay ($40) is rich and round, but not in a tropical fruit, oaky fashion.  There is a lot of structure here, with perfect acidity, and well-integrated oak that complements the wine, not dominates it.  Smith attributes it to the type of oak used, renowned French oak from the forests of Troncais, Allier, and Nevers, a tight-grained wood that doesn’t express the new oak as much, even though the Chardonnay is barrel-fermented and oak-aged for 18 months in barrel.  Lees stirring for 4-5 months gives it texture.  Aromas and flavors of citrus, stone fruit, ripe apple, pear and crème brulée emanate from its golden robe of color, with an opulent and creamy body, that is refreshed by an interlaced acidity, and accented by an elegant oak frame and mineral notes.  Aromatic and expressive, with a long finish, this is a delight to drink and fantastic with food.  It’s a reminder of what California Chardonnay can be, elegant and complex.
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The 2016 Smith-Madrone Cabernet Sauvignon ($58) is a hedonistic wine, 90% Cabernet Sauvignon, 6% Cabernet Franc, and 4% Merlot, from a spectacular vintage.  Smith believes this is “what Cabernet Sauvignon should be”, a layered, complex wine that expresses all the nuances of the varietal.  In addition to the red and black fruit (think cassis), baking spices, leather, eucalyptus, tobacco, and cigar box, there are the hints of green olive and bell pepper.  Balanced and generous, it’s a Goldilocks moment, not too firm, not too soft, just right in its structure, with intriguing aromas and full flavor.  Delicious to drink now, or if you’re patient, will be even more incredible with some age.
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The 2017 Smith-Madrone Riesling ($34) is a labor of love for the Smith brothers.  Stu and Charlie love Riesling, and do so well with it because they really care about the varietal.  This is the wine the gets all the buzz, zesty and lively with a pure essence of the varietal, intense aromas of honeysuckle, grapefruit, lime zest, candied lemon, and wet stone, and a whiff of petrol.  Integrated acidity, silky texture, and depth of flavor caresses the palate, with apple and pear flavors, mineral and citrus notes and a long finish, crisp and clean.  This is the Riesling that won the Gault-Millaut 1979 competition (obviously different vintage), and since has captured the world’s attention with its beauty.  Smith says it’s often hard to sell, because people don’t know how good Riesling can be, becoming more intoxicatingly beautiful with age.  Enchanting to drink and a stunner with food.
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Smith-Madrone wines are currently available for purchase through their website, or at the winery tasting room when it reopens again by appointment only.  If you sign up for the mailing list, there will be special releases in celebration of their 50th anniversary, such as verticals of Riesling, older vintages of Cabernet Sauvignon, and their legendary Cook’s Flat Reserve (the very best of a superior vintage), plus the Terrific Threesome that I experienced.
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​Smith-Madrone has defined mountain winemaking in Napa Valley for half a century, producing distinctive wines that show finesse and precision, but mostly reflect the vineyard and the myriad of conditions that year.  The wines have personality and presence, and truly are living works of art, thanks to the Smith brothers’ artisan touch.  And for the price point, these phenomenal wines are in a category all their own, highly recommended!