Bethany Burke of Taub Family Wine Selections

Sal Marino of Marino Restaurant

Steeped in history, Italy’s rich tapestry of regional cuisine and intriguing wines weave a magical thread of sensory delights that is the beating heart of Italian culture.  La Dolce Vita, “the sweet life”, encapsulates this alchemy of food and wine, and how an incredible meal can transport you.  On a warm September day, the LA Wine Writers experienced Italy through a luncheon of discovery, with Italian wines from Taub Family Wine Selections and Palm Bay International, and food crafted by Marino Restaurant in Los Angeles.

Montemarano Estate vineyard, dedicated to Taurasi Riserva, Courtesy of Mastroberardino

In ancient times, Italy was known as Enotria, the “land of wine”.   Greeks brought viticulture to Sicily and southern Italy over 3,000 years ago, and the rise of the Roman Empire expanded the art of winemaking throughout the sun-drenched, mountainous Italian peninsula and beyond.  Today, it is viticultural heaven, with over 3,000 grape varieties, from 20 different regions, with a rich legacy of wine that has been perfected through the millennia.

Four different wine producers from four different regions were represented at the Taub Family Wine Selections luncheon:  Sardinia, Campania, Tuscany, and Piedmont.  These fine Italian wines are made by esteemed winemaking families, with a long history of crafting wines that define their region.  They are truly representative of the high quality of today’s Italian wine scene.

Sella & Mosca vineyard, Courtesy of Sella & Mosca

Sella & Mosca winery complex, Courtesy of Sella & Mosca

Sella & Mosca of Sardinia, an island off the western coast of central Italy, is one of the largest wine estates in Europe, with over 1,200 acres of organic vines nestled between the sea and the mountains.  Founded in 1899, Sella & Mosca is the largest and most acclaimed producer in Sardinia, and crafts premium wines from estate-grown grapes.  In addition to the native varietals of Vermentino, Torbato, and Cannonau, they also make a Cabernet Sauvignon.

Mirabella Eclano Estate Aglianico vineyard, Courtesy of Mastroberardino

Montefalcione Estate Fiano di Avellino vineyard, Courtesy of Mastroberardino

Mastroberardino of Campania is known for resurrecting the region’s indigenous grape varietals and winemaking traditions.  Established in 1878, the Mastroberadino family has invested in recovering Campania’s ancient viticultural history, bringing back the Fiano, Greco and Aglianico varietals from the brink of extinction.  Their world-class wines, from fourteen estates, channel the mountainous Irpinia area where the vineyards and winery are located

Rocca delle Macìe vineyards, Courtesy of Rocca delle Macìe

Relais Riserva di Fizzano, among the vines, Courtesy of Rocca delle Macìe

Rocca delle Macìe of Tuscany is a major proponent of the Chianti Classico, successfully producing distinctive expressions of the DOCG.  For almost 50 years, the Zingarelli family has worked to restore their estate, founded by the late film producer, Italo Zingarelli of spaghetti Western fame, and championed the quality of the Classico region.  Today, his son, Sergio, continues to advocate for Sangiovese and the Chianti Classico incarnations.

Beni di Batasiola winery & vineyards, Courtesy of Beni di Batasiola

Beni di Batasiola Briccolina Cru vineyard, Courtesy of Beni di Batasiolo

Beni di Batasiola of Piedmont is the largest family-owned wine producer in the region, owned by the Dogliani family.  In the past 40 years, Batasiolo has grown, increasing their size to nine estates, or “beni” in Italian, over 320 acres of vines.  Five Cru vineyards produce highly prized Barolos, of which Batasiolo is renowned for, earning them accolades over the years.

We were greeted with a glass of sparkling Torbato, an ancient grape varietal of which Sella & Mosca makes the only sparkling version in the world, by the Charmat method.  Uniquely fascinating in its floral and saline bouquet, the Sella & Mosca Alghero Torbato Spumante Brut DOC (SRP $21) is refreshingly delicate, a mineral wine with white peach and yeasty notes.

Three white wines were served with a raw fish appetizer.

​The Sella & Mosca Monteoro Vermentino di Gallura Superiore DOCG 2020 (SRP $24) is fresh and vibrant, expressive in its complexity of citrus, pear and apple, herbs, saline and mineral, with floral notes.  Smooth on the palate, it gives way to a textured finish.  The Mastroberardino Lacryma Christi del Vesuvio Bianco DOC 2019 (SRP $20) is made from 100% Coda di Volpe, an ancient varietal with a colorful past.  Legend tells that Christ cried when he found a corner of heaven, above the Gulf of Naples, on the slopes of Mount Vesuvius, that was stolen by Lucifer.  Where Christ’s divine tears fell, the vines of Lacryma Christi miraculously sprang from the earth, hence the name “Tears of Christ”.  This is a smooth, juicy, structured, and mineral wine, with fruity aromas of pear, apple and citrus and flavors of white peach and licorice.  The Mastroberardino Fiano di Avellino DOCG 2019 (SRP $22) opens with delicate aromas of pear and citrus fruit, hazelnuts, fresh herbs, and white flowers while the palate reveals a savory, medium-bodied wine with a smooth, mineral finish.

Next up, the pasta course with three Tuscan Chianti Classico wines from Rocca delle Macìe.  The Rocca delle Macìe Riserva Famiglia Zingarelli Chianti Classico DOCG 2018 (SRP $28) is a blend of 90% Sangiovese, 5% Cabernet Sauvignon and 5% Colorino, the flagship wine of Rocca delle Macìe.   The best grapes from their vineyards in Castellina in Chianti showcase the different estates, revealing a smooth, characterful wine, with plum and sour cherry fruit, violets, tobacco, pepper and toasty vanilla from two years in French oak barrel.  The Rocca delle Macìe Tenuta Sant'Alfonso Chianti Classico DOCG 2018 (SRP $28), a 100% single vineyard Cru Sangiovese, is opulent and juicy, with plum and cherry, coffee and licorice notes.  The Rocca delle Macìe Riserva di Fizzano Gran Selezione Chianti Classico DOCG 2018 (SRP $41), a blend of 90% Sangiovese and 10% Colorino, is elegant and high-toned, with ripe berry and plum fruit, violet floral notes, and spice, structured with fine tannins, mineral character, and lengthy finish.

With the Osso Bucco and Polenta main course, three Piemontese Nebbiolo wines from Beni di Batasiolo were paired.  The Beni di Batasiolo Barbaresco DOCG 2017 (SRP $40) expressed raspberry, Asian spice, violet, berry and leather notes with firm tannins.  The Beni di Batasiolo Barolo DOCG 2016 (SRP $42) is a blend of their five Cru vineyards, with notes of red berry, cherry, violets, tobacco and damp earth swirling within a polished, tannic finish.  The Beni di Batasiolo Barolo Briccolina DOCG 2013 (SRP $115) is a beauty, with dark berries, spice, violets and earth, making for a savory, elegant wine.

The finale, truffle pizza of course!  As Sal shaved truffles over the cheese pizza, the umami of aromas set the stage for the next wines.  Sella & Mosca Marchese di Villamarina Alghero DOC 2014 (SRP $55) is 100% Cabernet Sauvignon, with intense red fruit aromas, and classic flavors of black currant, highlighted by vanilla, fine grained tannins and a lingering finish.  The Mastroberardino “Naturalis Historia” Taurasi 2011 (SRP $74) is 100% Aglianico, a rich and fragrant wine with aromas of smoked meat, dried fruit and herbs, underbrush and leather, with layered flavors of blackberry, cherry, cocoa and spice.  The name “Naturalis Historia”, comes from Pliny the Elder’s magnum opus, detailing ancient knowledge that survived the Roman Empire, and in this case, an ancient grape varietal in Aglianico.

Very different sensibilities, from north to south, this intriguing array of Italian wines compliment a kaleidoscope of food and wine, whose traditions are rooted in history, climate, and what the land provides.  For a high quality wine drinking experience, these wines offer value and a chance to travel to Italy, via the senses.