Robert Hall Winery, Evolving Their Wines Toward a Regenerative Future

Many wineries have joined the sustainable and organic dialogue during the past few years, and while they may talk the talk, they don’t necessarily walk the walk. In defense, it’s difficult and expensive to make the long-term investment for the immediate business model, when consumers might not even realize the difference, except for the price per bottle. But Robert Hall Winery has vision in their DNA, from the very beginning with its namesake founder. Regenerating their vineyards and at the same time making fabulous wine is not one or the other, it’s a combined effort where the whole picture is greater than the sum of its parts. And for Earth Day 2023, it’s a beacon of hope for the future, our planet, and the wine in our glass.

Courtesy of Robert Hall Winery

Robert Hall Winery has taken the lead in environmental stewardship over many different platforms. They are certified sustainable through the California Sustainable Winegrowing Alliance, which not only includes their estate vineyards but the growers that supply their fruit. Robert Hall Winery is also certified as an ISO14001 company, meaning that their business goals are achieved in an environmentally responsible way. Solar panels on the winery offsets 92% of their energy used during the busiest times. And through their parent company, O’Neill Vintners & Distillers, a BioFiltro worm-powered wastewater system has been constructed, the largest in North America.

Courtesy of Robert Hall Winery

And now, most fascinating, they are working on a Regenerative Viticulture Study, comparing biodynamic farming techniques with their existing sustainable methods. It’s a broad umbrella, to see if rehabilitating vineyard lands through a variety of organic and biodynamic means really pays off. In partnership with biodynamic consultant Philippe Armenier of Domaine Marcoux, a three year study was launched in 2020. Across 40 plus acres of estate vineyards, it tracks and measures a myriad of factors in vineyard management and winemaking. The study will weigh if these regenerative farming practices do what is intended, trap carbon within the vineyard soils while improving its overall quality, and that of the grapes and the finished wine, all at an affordable cost to the winery. And without getting too far into the weeds, pun intended, if you look at the chart comparing different types of farming, Regenerative is the only one that checks all the boxes, including incorporating animals and social fairness standards.

Courtesy of Robert Hall Winery

Robert Hall Winery is working towards earning the Regenerative Organic Certification (ROC), a very high standard of quality. Tablas Creek Vineyards, also out of Paso Robles, was the first winery in the world to achieve the ROC. Today there are less than 20 wineries worldwide to have successfully completed this initiative, but “Farm like the world depends on it”, the Regenerative Organic Alliance’s slogan, is sure to catch on in a big way.

Robert Hall Winery, Paso Robles, April 2022

Caine Thompson pours for the LA Wine Writers at AOC Brentwood, February 2023

I had the opportunity to explore the impact of this Regenerative Study twice in the past year, the first time at Robert Hall Winery in Paso Robles as part of a Wine Writers Educational Tour, and then recently at a LA Wine Writers luncheon in Los Angeles. Caine Thompson, their Managing Director and Sustainability Lead, presented a compelling case. From the first year results, comparisons of vineyard photos and wine samples showed a definitely happier vineyard. The cost analysis? Although it cost 10% more in farming costs, the yields were increased, which helped offset those costs. Lessons were learned so that in the next two years of the study, changes will be made to address cultivation, cover crops and animal grazing practices. The study is primarily with Cabernet Sauvignon, with a five acre control site, to literally compare apples with apples, so that the true benefits can be seen.

Courtesy of Robert Hall Winery

Today’s Robert Hall Winery is a juggernaut, occupying an iconic spot on the winescape of Paso Robles. From its passionate founder and champion of Paso Robles wine, Robert Hall, whose quest to make his own world-class wine was realized over his lifetime, to becoming a key player in the O’Neill Vintners & Distillers portfolio with their premium wines, the bar has been set high. The winery has three estate vineyards in the Geneseo and Estrella Districts, planted to 12 grape varietals over 173 acres, with a wide range of soils and micro-climates. In addition to their large winemaking endeavor, their tasting room offers wine tastings, a Cavern Tour and Barrel Tasting, Food and Wine pairings, and a Scratch Kitchen, with a monthly menu created by their culinary team. Their mantra, “The Good Life. Well-Earned.” seems to be in full swing here, with wine tourism in its sights.

Don Brady, Courtesy of Robert Hall Winery

Don Brady, April 2022

Managing Director Caine Thompson, Winemaker Amanda Gorter, and Head Winemaker Don Brady, Courtesy of Robert Hall Winery

Head Winemaker Don Brady was there from the beginning, working with Robert Hall to establish Paso Robles as a distinct AVA, creating a wine style that Paso is known and loved for. Brady is still at the helm, along with Winemaker Amanda Gorter, sourcing grapes from all 11 AVAs in the Paso region, and making wines that embody the character of Paso Robles with elegance and style. Robert Hall controls the entire winemaking process, from vineyard to bottle, and that way they can achieve the quality they are looking for.

Caine Thompson, Managing Director and Sustainability Leader for Robert Hall Winery

That quality can be seen in the glass. At the AOC Brentwood luncheon back in February, Caine Thompson brought the best of the best, their Cavern Select wines, which are only available at the winery, and a couple of the Artisan series, found only on restaurant wine lists. And then he brought barrel samples of the 2021 and 2022 Cabernet Sauvignon vintages to compare, the sustainable versus the regeneratively farmed vineyard fruit. The early verdict, the sustainable vines had a larger canopy, but more dehydrated fruit, while the regenerative vines had more intact berries and less dehydration. To me, the regenerative juice was richer, with more fruit character, and one can only imagine, through the passage of time, make for a more intense and flavorful wine.

Robert Hall Winery is on the cutting edge, evolving their wines to align with a better future for their wine business and the world. This mission will fulfill Robert Hall’s vision, transporting Paso Robles’ past as an up and coming wine region to today’s success story, saving the planet one glass at a time.