Paso Robles is a wine country oasis, offering so many perks to the wine tasting tourist. World class food and wine, the finest cocktails, craft breweries, a vibrant art scene, boutique shops, and charming accommodations are all located within a few easily walkable blocks of its historic Downtown Park. Picturesque wine country drives can be enjoyed within 20 minutes of town, plenty of outdoor activities from hiking to golf, and a variety of festivals and concerts normally populate the calendar. It is wine country unwound, a seductively casual yet classy getaway that is the essence of escape.
Paso Robles has a storied past, once the frontier of the American Wild West, renowned for its hot springs and thermal mud baths, and later morphing into a cattle ranching and farming community, it’s today’s wine scene that has come to define it. The Franciscan friars first planted wine grapes around 1790 to support their missions’ thirst for communion wines, then a hundred years later, commercial production began, only to be disrupted by Prohibition. Although it was a slow recovery, Paso has more than made up for that now, considered the fastest growing wine region in the world.
While September is California Wine Month, October is when harvest is in full swing. It’s a magical time to visit, you can literally smell the harvest in the air, the sweet, yeasty aromas of freshly crushed grapes just beginning to ferment into their alcoholic goodness.
Travel Paso offered me a chance to experience Paso Robles, and over 4 days and 3 nights, I found myself wanting more. Enticing in its small town charm and easygoing ways, Paso is totally accessible, from its walkable historic downtown to the wine country trails. Friendly people, delicious food, mind-blowing cocktails, and intriguing wines, it’s steeped in the past but definitely evolving into a modern version of itself. Here is a peek of what I enjoyed and highly recommend.
Outside of wine, the biggest attraction today in Paso Robles is undeniably The Light At Sensorio. It's an impressive outdoor art installation, designed by internationally acclaimed artist Bruce Munro to be experienced up close, and a must visit when coming to Paso Robles. It’s magical, as the sun slips below the horizon, the Field of Light comes to life. Walking among these solar-powered fiber optic bulbs, over 58,000 of them spread out over 15 acres of gently rolling hills, is mesmerizing. The spheres slowly change colors, inviting you to linger along the many paths that cross the field, with benches along the way to sit and enjoy. At the back of the Field is the newest installation, the Light Towers, that are an homage to Paso Robles’ wine country. Sixty-nine towers, seven feet high, are stacked with more than 17,000 clear wine bottle, lit by fiber optic light strands coiled inside each bottle that pulse and change color with a musical soundtrack “Rise and Shine”. Sensorio is a stunning and sensual feast for the eyes and soul, immersive art that is felt and constantly changing. Open Thursday through Sunday evenings, currently through January 2, 2022, tickets are available online only, with General Admission and VIP Experiences covering both the Field of Light and Light Towers.
Before wine comes creature comforts. The Adelaide Inn is a convenient and comfy hotel, with spacious rooms outfitted with all the modern amenities. Mini-fridges, microwaves, coffeemakers, flat screen TVs and free Wi-Fi make life easy on the road. The stylish baths and vanities, with an excellent makeup mirror and lighting, and stocked with Tarocco products, allow you to look and feel great. The very comfortable pillow-top beds and linens provide a good night’s sleep, and each room has a sitting area, outfitted with either a chair or sofa, and a desk should you choose to mix work with pleasure. Amid the tropical landscaping is a large heated pool and jacuzzi, miniature putting green, picnic/BBQ area, and exercise room. Complimentary perks include breakfast muffins and fruit, newspapers, afternoon cookies, and free parking. All this is centrally located, close to the 101 and 46 highways, Fairgrounds, Downtown Paso, wineries, and a short drive to the coast. The Adelaide Inn has all the comforts of home, and is an affordable gem among the many lodging options in the Paso Robles area.
Restaurants run the gamut in Paso, from fine dining to casual gourmet, all focused on fresh, locally sourced ingredients from the Pacific Ocean to organic produce. Of course, most revolve around beer, wine, and spirits, but there are non-alcoholic options available, too. The cowboy vibe runs strong, with Cowboy Supper Clubs and BBQ, and Mexican is a local favorite. Italian, French, Japanese and California cuisine populate the many choices, alongside wine bars. Here’s my take on the ones I enjoyed.
With a nod to Baja California and fine tequila, Fish Gaucho is a lively cantina with some of the best tequila-based cocktails in California. Over 275 tequilas line the rustic-chic bar, and the bartenders are definitely kick-ass in their skills. From the wildly popular Jalapiñe margarita, made with fire-roasted jalapeño and pineapple, rimmed with chile salt and garnished with an agave spike, to the Mach 1 margarita, composed of tequila, mezcal, St. Germain, and serrano chile, mixed with the fresh flavors of English cucumber and cilantro, here at Fish Gaucho, mezcal and tequila in all its incarnations are the stars. If tequila isn’t your thing, there are various craft cocktails featuring other spirits, from vodka to whiskey. And, of course, local wines and beers are offered by the glass or bottle. But don’t get too distracted with the drinks, the food is excellent. Known for their skill with fresh fish, various tacos, aperitivos, and a few platos showcase Alaskan Halibut, Ahi Tuna, Pacific Rock Cod, and Scallops. Beef, Pork, and Chicken are also creatively designed, for me, the bomb was the Chuleta de Cerdo, a double-cut pork chop, marinated and cooked sous vide, then grilled at the last moment. Wow! So flavorful, juicy, and tender, for those who have forgotten how wonderful a pork chop can be, this is for you, and big enough for two to share. There is also an abbreviated Happy Hour menu, served Monday to Friday from 3-6pm, with an assortment of tacos, crudo, nachos and guacamole. Dinner is served every night from 3 - 9pm, lunch is available Friday through Sunday from 11:30 - 3pm.
The Hatch Rotisserie & Bar is a local hot spot, serving wood-fired comfort food, and sublime craft cocktails, with a whiskey specialty. It has a joint vibe, with bar seating, banquettes and high tables, and a few sidewalk tables. The cocktails truly embody the word “craft”, the bartender extraordinaire dry-shook my egg white for several minutes, the smooth yet stiff foam on top of The Mockingbird, a gin-based drink, was ethereal. But when in Rome, as is said, whiskey should be sampled here. I ordered a Barrel Aged Old Fashion and The Roadrunner, a Bourbon, banana, cold brew and cinnamon syrup concoction, a perfect dessert! Local winemakers provide unique wines by the glass or carafe that are poured on tap from kegs, keeping the wines preserved and served at the correct temperature. A rotating selection of craft beers and hard ciders offer a refreshing alternative. The menu is seasonal, with some constant favorites, all revolving around sauces made fresh in-house daily, house-pickled produce, and the wood-fired rotisserie. Daily specials lure those in the know, dishes such as fried chicken, smoked beef ribs, and braised lamb shanks available until they’re sold out. The Maitake mushroom appetizer was to die for, the Etto Fettuccine silky and rich, and that Fried Chicken special, drizzled with black pepper honey and Hatch hot sauce, served with smoked bacon potato salad, spectacular. Dinner is served nightly from 4:30 - 9pm.
Brunch serves creative breakfast/lunch items, Thursday through Monday from 9:00a - 1:00p, and until 2pm on weekends. From conventional dishes such as Eggs Benedict, Avocado Toast, and Biscuits & Gravy to the unconventional S’Mores French Toast and breakfast pizzas, served with a runny egg on top, Brunch is a great way to start off your day, whether you’re wine tasting or touring. They specialize in a variety of fresh squeezed Mimosas, hence the “Mimosas made me do it!”, and other alcoholic breakfast drinks, such as a Bloody Mary that is sake based. The Chorizo breakfast pizza was divine, and the Crab Benedict tasty.
Thomas Hill Organics is a creative, farm-to-table restaurant that showcases the vibrant organic local produce and beautiful wines of the Paso Robles region. You can taste the quality of ingredients, and see the care that goes into its preparation, the food is alive. Owner Debbie Thomas has received numerous accolades for her commitment to local, even the artisan breads are made by local bakers. If anyone can make my husband a vegetarian, it is Thomas Hill Organics, he had a Saffron Fettuccine whose flavor was off the charts! I had a Smoked Salmon Avocado Toast, it was flavor, texture, and beauty all in one. The wine list pours many unique wines from Paso and the surrounding Central Coast. The beautiful patio makes for an oasis of dining, where the ingredients shine bright. Thomas Hill Organics is currently open for lunch Thursday through Tuesday, and dinner Friday and Saturday night, with a Sunday brunch.
Andrea’s on Pine is a specialty gourmet cafe serving breakfast and lunch adjacent to the Hotel Cheval near the Park. This is truly a farm to table restaurant, where you can see them processing the fresh produce from local farms on a table inside. The owner, Andrea Steele, is passionate about what they do, combining the best seasonal produce with a creative bent on breakfast and lunch. I had a very different kind of quiche, cake like in its height, firm in texture, accompanied by a Watermelon Rosé Sangria, delicious. The idyllic courtyard patio is a zen spot, framed with greenery and filled with the soothing sounds of a wall fountain. While the restaurant is currently open Friday through Sunday, from 8am - 2pm, Andrea’s offers wine tasting picnics to go, catering, and a patio for private events.
Next up, in Part 2 of Escape to Paso Robles, a Wonderland of Wine has put it on the map, a peek into what makes Paso one of the most exciting wine regions.