Maria Tamiolaki poured her Rhous Tamiolakis wines in Los Angeles
Greece, with its ancient wine producing culture, has catapulted into the 21st century. Fueled by young winemakers’ passion, cutting edge technology, and over 300 indigenous varietals, these terrific wines are amazing values, perhaps one third of the retail cost of many quality European wines. It’s back to the future for both red and white, resurrecting some grapes, like the white Malagousia, from the brink of extinction, others elevated by a push to quality, like Xinomavro, a complex red likened to Nebbiolo. At a 2018 trade tasting in Los Angeles, nine Greek wine producers in the Cava Spiliadis Collection poured a wide variety of wines, strutting their unusual indigenous varietals but also demonstrating their finesse with international varieties, like Chardonnay and Cabernet Sauvignon, as well.
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Greek wines can be challenging, some with their hard to pronounce varietals, others with their traditional labels. Greek white wines are very different, they’re mineral and herbal, often at the same time, refreshing in their acidity, some perfumed with citrus, others with stone fruit and flowers. Greek red wines run the gamut, from soft and fruity, to full-bodied and herbaceous, or rich and tannic, these wines are seductive in their savory palate. Some wineries are blending international grape varieties, such as Sauvignon Blanc, Syrah, and Cabernet Sauvignon with their native varietals, even producing a Bordeaux style blend, in homage to the time many young Greek winemakers spent in France, honing their craft. Organic plays a large role in Greek wine production, due to many factors, winemakers can avoid chemicals in the vineyards, and craft natural or biodynamic wines.
Argyris Gerovassiliou poured wines for Ktima Gerovassiliou and Ktima Biblia Chora
George Spiliadis, son of famed restauranteur Costas Spiliadis of Milos Restaurant Group, had a mission, to usher the wines of Greece onto the world stage. Over a decade ago, he founded Cava Spiliadis, and since has worked hard to educate and introduce wine consumers to the wonders of Greek wine. His Cava Spiliadis Collection of fine Greek wines includes nine family-run wineries, partners in this quest to get the world drinking the many great wines produced. Last year, these winemakers came to LA and poured an incredible portfolio of wine.
Courtesy of Ktima Gerovassiliou
Vangelis Gerovassiliou and the Malagousia he saved from extinction
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Vangelis Gerovassiliou and his son, Argyris Gerovassiliou, the second generation winemaker for the label
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Ktima Gerovassiliou
Over thirty years ago, Vangelis Gerovassiliou, fresh from his studies in Bordeaux, returned to his hometown of Epanomi in northern Greece. He set out to resuscitate the local vineyards, and in doing so, saved an obscure grape, Malagousia, from extinction. Putting his expertise from Bordeaux into practice, he planted five white and five red varietals, four of which are indigenous to Greece. A modern winery was built, which has become a destination, with its Wine Museum’s impressive collection of corkscrews, one of the largest in the world. He and his son, Argyris, poured eight of these engaging wines, of which the Chardonnay, Estate Red, Avaton red blend (all Greek varietals), the fascinating Evangelo (a Syrah/Viognier blend), and excellent Malagousia Late Harvest were my favorites.
Over thirty years ago, Vangelis Gerovassiliou, fresh from his studies in Bordeaux, returned to his hometown of Epanomi in northern Greece. He set out to resuscitate the local vineyards, and in doing so, saved an obscure grape, Malagousia, from extinction. Putting his expertise from Bordeaux into practice, he planted five white and five red varietals, four of which are indigenous to Greece. A modern winery was built, which has become a destination, with its Wine Museum’s impressive collection of corkscrews, one of the largest in the world. He and his son, Argyris, poured eight of these engaging wines, of which the Chardonnay, Estate Red, Avaton red blend (all Greek varietals), the fascinating Evangelo (a Syrah/Viognier blend), and excellent Malagousia Late Harvest were my favorites.
Courtesy of Ktima Biblia Chora
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Ktima Biblia Chora
Vassilis Tsaktsarlis, another graduate of the University of Bordeaux, returned to Greece and refined his winemaking skills for a decade at another winery. Then, he and Vangelis Gerovassiliou partnered on a new project, Biblia Chora, located on the southern slopes of Mount Pangeon. Their efforts has translated the rocky mountain soils and Aegean Sea climate into a lineup of captivating wines. Five whites, one rose, and six reds were poured, the Areti White, Sole Vidiano, Ovilos White, Biblinos Rosé, and Biblinos Red were the standouts for me. Especially the Biblinos Rosé, which has a fascinating story, made from an unknown local varietal that has not yet been identified by DNA testing.
Vassilis Tsaktsarlis, another graduate of the University of Bordeaux, returned to Greece and refined his winemaking skills for a decade at another winery. Then, he and Vangelis Gerovassiliou partnered on a new project, Biblia Chora, located on the southern slopes of Mount Pangeon. Their efforts has translated the rocky mountain soils and Aegean Sea climate into a lineup of captivating wines. Five whites, one rose, and six reds were poured, the Areti White, Sole Vidiano, Ovilos White, Biblinos Rosé, and Biblinos Red were the standouts for me. Especially the Biblinos Rosé, which has a fascinating story, made from an unknown local varietal that has not yet been identified by DNA testing.
Courtesy of Domaine Katsaros
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Domaine Katsaros
Over thirty years ago, Domaine Katsaros was founded on the slopes of Mount Olympus, planted to mostly international red grapes but importantly included the noble Greek grape Xinomavro. Evripidis Katsaros took his love of the family vineyard, studied in Bordeaux and Burgundy, then returned home, bringing with him the viticulture and winemaking skills acquired in Burgundy. For over a decade, he’s crafted these award-winning wines, which require time in the bottle to reveal their charms. Their flagship wine, Cabernet Sauvignon, in addition to Valos (Xinomavro), Merlot, and Chardonnay show promise.
Over thirty years ago, Domaine Katsaros was founded on the slopes of Mount Olympus, planted to mostly international red grapes but importantly included the noble Greek grape Xinomavro. Evripidis Katsaros took his love of the family vineyard, studied in Bordeaux and Burgundy, then returned home, bringing with him the viticulture and winemaking skills acquired in Burgundy. For over a decade, he’s crafted these award-winning wines, which require time in the bottle to reveal their charms. Their flagship wine, Cabernet Sauvignon, in addition to Valos (Xinomavro), Merlot, and Chardonnay show promise.
Courtesy of Parparoussis Winery
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Parparoussis Winery
Athanassios Parparoussis and his daughters, Erifili and Dimitra, operate this family estate in northwest Greece, dedicated to Greek indigenous varietals. Excellent and unusual wines, four whites, three reds, and two dessert wines were poured. My favorites, three whites (Gifts of Dionysos and Petite Fleur, made from Sideritis), and Assyrtiko, plus the red Taos and Mavrodaphne Patras. The Petite Fleur, particularly fascinating in its flavor profile and mouthfeel, is a late harvest wine picked over five passes through the vineyard.
Athanassios Parparoussis and his daughters, Erifili and Dimitra, operate this family estate in northwest Greece, dedicated to Greek indigenous varietals. Excellent and unusual wines, four whites, three reds, and two dessert wines were poured. My favorites, three whites (Gifts of Dionysos and Petite Fleur, made from Sideritis), and Assyrtiko, plus the red Taos and Mavrodaphne Patras. The Petite Fleur, particularly fascinating in its flavor profile and mouthfeel, is a late harvest wine picked over five passes through the vineyard.
Courtesy of Ktima Tselepos
Giannis Tselepos with his Driopi wines
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Ktima Tselepos
Giannis Tselepos has taken the expertise he learned in Burgundy, university studies and hands on work, and planted it in his own vineyards in northern Greece. As winemaker and consultant to the Peloponnese region, he founded his own winery thirty years ago, and set about to replicate some of the Burgundian principles that he holds dear. Three sparkling, two whites, and three reds were poured, the reds made from international grape varietals, the rest from Greek grapes. I was intrigued by the textured Amalia 2013 Vintage sparkler (Moschofilero) and the yummy Amalia Brut Rosé sparkler (Agiorgitiko), the Blanc de Gris (Moshofilero) with its honeyed character, and the Dilofos and Avlotopi reds were very good.
Giannis Tselepos has taken the expertise he learned in Burgundy, university studies and hands on work, and planted it in his own vineyards in northern Greece. As winemaker and consultant to the Peloponnese region, he founded his own winery thirty years ago, and set about to replicate some of the Burgundian principles that he holds dear. Three sparkling, two whites, and three reds were poured, the reds made from international grape varietals, the rest from Greek grapes. I was intrigued by the textured Amalia 2013 Vintage sparkler (Moschofilero) and the yummy Amalia Brut Rosé sparkler (Agiorgitiko), the Blanc de Gris (Moshofilero) with its honeyed character, and the Dilofos and Avlotopi reds were very good.
Courtesy of Ktima Driopi
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Ktima Driopi
Another project of Giannis Tselepos, he acquired this 50-year-old vineyard in Nemea in 2003, and adjusted the plantings of Agiogitiko grapes to coax the maximum potential from the vines. Renowned Agiogitiko wines are produced here, their fame has grown as more people experience them in restaurants around the world. Three amazing wines were poured. The Driopi Rosé is one of my all-time favorites, having drank it many times at the Estiatorio Milos restaurant in Las Vegas. The Driopi Nemea and Driopi Nemea Reserve are beautifully balanced wines that make a statement while keeping their grace.
Another project of Giannis Tselepos, he acquired this 50-year-old vineyard in Nemea in 2003, and adjusted the plantings of Agiogitiko grapes to coax the maximum potential from the vines. Renowned Agiogitiko wines are produced here, their fame has grown as more people experience them in restaurants around the world. Three amazing wines were poured. The Driopi Rosé is one of my all-time favorites, having drank it many times at the Estiatorio Milos restaurant in Las Vegas. The Driopi Nemea and Driopi Nemea Reserve are beautifully balanced wines that make a statement while keeping their grace.
Courtesy of Canava Chrissou Tselepos
Courtesy of Canava Chrissou Tselepos
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Canava Chrissou Tselepos
Giannis Tselepos has joined this family’s winemaking operation in one of the most ancient spots for producing wine on the planet, the island of Santorini. Here, Assyrtiko has been grown for centuries, and the two wines sampled reflect a blend of three villages for complexity and depth of fruit. Santorini, the simpler one, is pleasant while Laoudia, which is made from the fruit of 100-year-old vines, is more complex, hand-harvested, fermented and aged in amphorae, and left on the lees, it has great texture and mouthfeel.
Giannis Tselepos has joined this family’s winemaking operation in one of the most ancient spots for producing wine on the planet, the island of Santorini. Here, Assyrtiko has been grown for centuries, and the two wines sampled reflect a blend of three villages for complexity and depth of fruit. Santorini, the simpler one, is pleasant while Laoudia, which is made from the fruit of 100-year-old vines, is more complex, hand-harvested, fermented and aged in amphorae, and left on the lees, it has great texture and mouthfeel.
Courtesy of Venetsanos Winery
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Venetsanos Winery
One of the oldest wineries on Santorini, Venetsanos was built into the side of a cliff by George Venetsanos in 1947. Initially, winemaker Ioanna Vamvakouri had a lot to prove, being the only female winemaker on Santorini, but she rose to the challenge, crafting critically acclaimed wines. Since 2017, the winemaking baton has been passed to Christos Kanellakopoulos, who is using his Burgundian education and training to evolve Venetsanos into a modern interpretation. Three wines were sampled, Santorini, Nykteri and Mandilaria all have their own charms.
One of the oldest wineries on Santorini, Venetsanos was built into the side of a cliff by George Venetsanos in 1947. Initially, winemaker Ioanna Vamvakouri had a lot to prove, being the only female winemaker on Santorini, but she rose to the challenge, crafting critically acclaimed wines. Since 2017, the winemaking baton has been passed to Christos Kanellakopoulos, who is using his Burgundian education and training to evolve Venetsanos into a modern interpretation. Three wines were sampled, Santorini, Nykteri and Mandilaria all have their own charms.
Courtesy of Rhous Tamiolakis Winery
Maria Tamiolaki
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Rhous Tamiolakis Winery
Maria Tamiolaki was inspired to make wine by her grandfather, who produced and sold the local wine of Heraklion. She went to Bordeaux for her formal training and hands on experience, returning to Crete to take over the family winery. Committed to making Greek wines from indigenous varietals, Tamiolaki ended up saving endangered local Cretan grapes, such as Vidiano, Moschato Spinas and Plyto. Joined by Dimitris Mansolas, the two are evolving Cretan wines, and as such, the name Rhous translates to the ancient Greek word for “flow”, the continuous progression of things. Two whites and two reds were tasted, my favorite was Skipper Red, a blend of Kotsifali and Mandilaria.
Maria Tamiolaki was inspired to make wine by her grandfather, who produced and sold the local wine of Heraklion. She went to Bordeaux for her formal training and hands on experience, returning to Crete to take over the family winery. Committed to making Greek wines from indigenous varietals, Tamiolaki ended up saving endangered local Cretan grapes, such as Vidiano, Moschato Spinas and Plyto. Joined by Dimitris Mansolas, the two are evolving Cretan wines, and as such, the name Rhous translates to the ancient Greek word for “flow”, the continuous progression of things. Two whites and two reds were tasted, my favorite was Skipper Red, a blend of Kotsifali and Mandilaria.
Argyris Gerovassiliou with the Biblinos Rosé
Expressive wines that echo their historic roots, yet sparkle with contemporary highlights, and made in small batches, these wines from the different regions of Greece offer unique flavors, and show a great affinity for food. Greek wines are a delight, exciting your taste buds with their unique sensory bouquet. This is not just another Chardonnay, Cabernet Sauvignon, or Merlot; it’s a voyage to wines that are mystical and mysterious, outside the mainstream wine experience, compelling in their fragrance and flavors. The Cava Spiliadis Collection offers some of the finest Greek wines for your drinking pleasure, definitely worth seeking out!