Bordeaux wine lovers have been spoiled in recent years, where outstanding vintages seemed to become the norm more than the exception, and even the not so perfect years yielded some very good wines. But there was concern with 2017, where Mother Nature dealt several blows to the vines, capricious in where it’s benevolence spared the grapes and where it savagely destroyed the vines. But as the futures are sampled at different tastings, the revelation that not all was lost, and that there were some bright spots among the wines, seemed to swirl in an undercurrent of appreciation for what may end up being better than expected. It’s a year of very good dry and sweet white wines, and softer, silkier reds with bright fruit and acidity.
|
|
What happened in 2017 was a double whammy. An early start to the growing season was promising but then a crippling frost hit in late April, with some estates losing 50-80% of their vines, except those along the Gironde River. Early summer heat and rain helped the surviving vines, with an overcast August bringing relief. This benefitted the dry whites but then September rains affected the reds, not getting enough ripeness for Merlot and Cabernet Sauvignon, which were harvested earlier than ideal.
|
|
|
|
Although expectations were muted, there are surprises among the producers, a year where geography mattered more, but technical expertise in winemaking yielded better than expected wines. Not as deep and rich, concentrated and powerful, the wines are more floral and savory, with the promise of time yielding more finesse. It’s a year where it is more important than ever to carefully select wines for purchase, since, as always, the best terroirs and Châteaux made the best wines. Producers feel this will be an affordable vintage for Bordeaux lovers, where a value crop of wines offer drinking pleasure, while the first growths, as always, are at the top.
|
|
The forecast for the vintage? The reds are more medium-bodied and softer, lower in alcohol and higher in acidity, yet as always top Châteaux always seem to make fine wines in any year. The dry whites are moderate and balanced, with vibrant acidity and tension. The sweet whites, of what little there is, has an element of freshness swirling within the concentration, a reflection of the many different picks in the vineyard.
|
|
|
|
|
The 2020 Union Des Grands Crus De Bordeaux (UGCB) tasting, presented by Wally’s Wines, showcased many of the 2017 vintage wines at the Sofitel Hotel in Los Angeles. There was a lot of excitement among the crowd of wine professionals, anxious to judge for themselves the quality of what was in the glass, despite the forecast of doom and gloom. While not all the producers were in attendance, since the tasting event was split between Seattle and LA, there was a consensus that it was a year for the white wines, and that there were several good reds among the bunch. As always, it was impossible to taste every producer in the time allotted, but these are my top favorites of what I sampled:
|
|
|
|
Saint-Julien red wines
Château Léoville Poyferré
Château Langoa Barton
Château Lagrange
Château Branaire-Ducru
Château Léoville Poyferré
Château Langoa Barton
Château Lagrange
Château Branaire-Ducru
|
|
Sauternes and Barsac sweet white wines
Château Suduiraut
Château Lafaurie-Peyraguey
Château Doisy Daëne
Château Suduiraut
Château Lafaurie-Peyraguey
Château Doisy Daëne
|
|
|
|
Each estate displayed different personalities in the wines, but overall to me, it seemed more savory fruit than ripe fruit in the reds, more floral and pure fruit aromas in the whites, and a fresher quality to the sweet whites.
It’s estimated that producers lost an enormous amount of wine due to the “biblical frost”, killing many vines and reducing the amount of wine produced, estimates are about 40% of the reds and 50% of the whites in 2017. When these wines are released, hopefully prices will reflect “an affordable vintage”, and give wine lovers the opportunity to once again drink Bordeaux on a regular basis.