Tunisia is a country of contrasts.  An African land seemingly too hot for viticulture, yet vineyards thrive in a Mediterranean climate near the Sea.  A Muslim majority population that does not drink alcohol, yet has a modern outlook, allowing tourists to drink in resorts, and non-Muslim locals in bars and at home.  Although it has almost 3,000 years of winemaking history, today’s wine industry is struggling to reinvent itself.  And with all the obstacles to making modern wine in an ancient land, the wines are surprisingly good, more savory than fruity, their fresh acidity, minerality and ripe tannins make them very food-friendly.

At first glance, Tunisia appears to be too hot for wine production.  Located on the northern coast of Africa, bordered by Libya and Algeria, with the Saharan Desert on the southern border and the Mediterranean Ocean on the eastern edge, it actually has a Mediterranean climate with maritime influences, very much like Sicily.  Except for the rare blast of hot Saharan wind known as Sirocco, the climate is very conducive to growing grapes.  Syrah and Carignan do particularly well for red wines, as does Muscat for whites, but Mourvedre, Cinsault, Grenache, Merlot, and Chardonnay are also grown.  Over 65% of their production is Rosé, in all shades of pink, with 25% red and less than 10% white.  There are seven AOCs, over 31,000 hectares, with the largest concentration in Cap Bon.  Almost 40 million bottles are produced, of which 60% are made by a government-supported co-op, the other 40% are made by five privately-owned wineries.  And surprisingly, the majority of Tunisian wines are consumed within its borders.  

Phoenicians brought winemaking to Tunisia when Carthage was built almost 3,000 years ago, but when Muslim rule took over in the 7th century, most winemaking stopped, except for a few isolated producers, whose wines were both consumed by ancient Romans and the French after phylloxera destroyed their vineyards.  Large numbers of Italians came to Tunisia in the 1800’s followed by the French, who conquered Tunisia in 1881, their expertise reinvigorated the local wine industry.  And although the Muslim population didn’t drink wine, it was produced for export, encouraged and refined by French winemakers.  After the French left in 1956, political upheaval interfered with the wine business, leaving a void in quality, but for the past twenty years, there has been a push to invest in and modernize winemaking by individuals who find wine is part of their culture and dining experiences.  And a new EU-funded initiative is putting Tunisia back on the wine map of the world.

Kathy Bailey of Travis Wine Imports

And now, Tunisian wines are beginning to be imported into the US, thanks to the efforts of Kathy Bailey of Travis Wine Imports.  Bailey first traveled to Tunisia after the Arab Spring revolution in 2012, and was impressed with their quality.  But she was disappointed when she discovered that the wines were not available for purchase in the US.  When Bailey asked winemakers why they didn’t export to the US, they told her that they understood Americans wouldn’t pay more than $8 for a bottle of wine.  So, settling that misconception, Bailey began importing the wines for our consumption.  Currently, two producers, Ceptunes from the Mornag AOC, located near the Mediterranean, and Domaine Neferis from the Sidi Salem AOC, 30 kilometers from the coast, are available, and they are very good values, from $14-20 a bottle, except for one red wine blend that is priced at $40.

A media and trade tasting was held at Jaffa Restaurant, and there was a lot of excitement among the chefs, sommeliers, and wine writers, giddy about the opportunity to taste Tunisian wine.  And they didn’t disappoint, seven wines, in all shades, shone alongside some really amazing food, served family-style.  Starting off with a glass of Ceptunes Jour et Nuit Muscat 2016, this aromatic white seemed fruity on the nose, but was dry and delicate, made from Muscat of Alexandria.

Kubaneh Yemenite Pull-Apart Rolls

Sweet Pea Agnolotti with Turkish Yogurt Sauce, Pecorino Romano

Chickpea Salad with Charred Cucumber, Asparagus, Meyer Lemon Vinaigrette

Domaine Neferis Magnifique Rosé 2016, a Syrah/Grenache blend, is a brilliant copper pink in color, with white peach, melon, and berry fruit, and a mineral structure on the palate.  Served alongside three dishes for a first course, Sweet Pea Agnolotti, Chickpea Salad, and Kubaneh, succulent pull-apart rolls, it was really delicious, and complimented a variety of flavors in the dishes.

Eggplant Tahina with Pistachios, Date Nectar, Pomegranate

Turmeric-Roasted Cauliflower Tahina with Garlic Labneh, Dried Plums

Shawarma-Spiced Organic Salmon with Parsley Freekeh Tabouli

Domaine Neferis Selian Rouge Carignan 2015, a dense, complex wine with blackcurrant, spice, and violet, and a silky, full palate, along with the Domaine Neferis Selian Rouge Reserve Carignan 2013, an intense, structured wine with candied fruit and spice, were everything I like about Carignan.  Paired with a second course of three dishes, Eggplant Tahina, Turmeric Roasted Cauliflower Tahina, and Shawarma-Spiced Organic Salmon, both wines elevated the dishes with their spice note.

Lamb Couscous with Niman Ranch Lamb, Moroccan spices, Dried Figs, Cilantro

Roasted Vegetable Couscous with Avocado Hummus, Harissa, Coriander

Domaine Neferis 2009, a Carignan-Syrah blend, was an intense wine, with cherry and plum fruit, and spice, stylish with velvety tannins and a persistent finish, and the Ceptunes Didona Red 2012, a Cabernet Sauvignon-Syrah blend, a stunning wine with dark berry fruit, spice and leather, intense and elegant, demonstrated talented winemaking.  Served alongside two dishes for the third course, Lamb Couscous and Roasted Vegetable Couscous, their depth of flavor echoed in the dishes.

Malabi Harry's Berries over Buttermilk Lemon Pudding, Basil, Black Pepper

The finale, Domaine Neferis Magnifique Blanc 2016, a Chardonnay-Muscat blend, was a tapestry of citrus and tropical fruit, fresh and bright, well balanced with fragrant aromatics.  Paired with a dessert of Harry’s Berries over Buttermilk Lemon Pudding, it was delightful.

The revival of Tunisia’s winemaking culture goes hand in hand with a push to re-establish its tourism industry, with hopes of creating wine tourism to vineyards and archeological sites.  In the meantime, these wines are making their way to US wine stores, well-made wines that are worthy of exploration, extremely food-friendly and delicious by the glass.