There is consensus in the wine world that old vines produce very good wines, and in the case of Domaine Saint-Gayan, it is exponentially so. This small but mighty estate in the Southern Rhône wine region of Gigondas is renowned for making complex wines. The owners, Jean-Pierre Meffre and his wife, Martine, produce robust wines of character, carrying on a family winemaking tradition since 1702. With 30 acres of vineyards scattered around the town of Gigondas, in addition to another 53 acres of plots in neighboring villages, approximately one third of their vines are 100-year-old Grenache.
The Southern Rhône is made up of numerous villages and nine “cru” appellations, legally recognized for their high quality and expressive essence, considered the elite of the region. Chateauneuf-du-Pape is the original jewel, defined by its opulence and elegance, but Gigondas is sometimes referred to as a poor man’s CdP, similar in its rich fruit and spice but different in a leaner expression infused with “garrigue”, a combination of underbrush and herbs found in this area.
Considered a benchmark for the best Gigondas wines, Domaine Saint-Gayan’s old vines produce low yields of intensely concentrated fruit, which are made into extremely flavorful wines by natural winemaking practices. Grenache is at the center of their blends, fleshed out with other Rhône varietals such as Syrah and Mourvèdre. The topography also makes a difference, the Dentelles de Montmirail mountains imparts a combination of factors, such as altitude, mineral soils and diurnal temperature swings, which contribute freshness to these Gigondas wines.
The Domaine Saint-Gayan Gigondas Origine 2017 (75% Grenache/20% Syrah/5% Mourvedre) is simply amazing, powerful yet elegant, aromatically intoxicating in its rich perfume of red fruit, wild herbs and spice. There is a delicate dance of rich tannins and juicy acidity, balanced by a graceful freshness and succulent fruit. The herbal and spice notes add intrigue, while the ripe and textured palate captures the essence of the Southern Rhône in its olive tapenade, garrigue and licorice highlights. The long mouthfilling finish is a symphony of sweet fruit, cocoa and floral notes, with the herbal accent that is so integral to its charm. This is a pure expression of the terroir, fermented with native yeast, the wine is aged in concrete and large wooden barrels, bottled unfiltered and rested until they are ready to drink.
Today, Jean-Pierre and Martine’s daughter, Julie, along with her winemaker husband Christian Yves Carré de Lusançay, have taken over the reins of Domaine Saint-Gayan, becoming the 13th generation to proudly carry forth the legacy of this family wine estate. Sustainable farming, whole cluster fermentation, clay amphorae and large neutral oak barrels play their part in producing distinctive wine, and the long, slow aging process guarantees ready to drink deliciousness upon release, with a long drinking window ahead of it. Their Gigondas Origine is an entry level wine, which makes up about 80% of their total Gigondas production.
Widely regarded as one of the very best wines of the Gigondas appellation, the Domaine Saint-Gayan Gigondas Origine 2017 is an incredible value. At SRP $33, this wine overdelivers, bringing the essence of the Southern Rhône to your dinner table.