The Vibrant Wines of El Dorado County, A Mother Lode of Liquid Gold

The Vibrant Wines of El Dorado County, A Mother Lode of Liquid Gold
August 11, 2025

“There’s gold in them thar hills” might have referred to the famed California Gold Rush of 1849, but today a new gold standard has emerged in these Sierra Foothills, wine. What was old is now new again, as El Dorado County, one of the oldest wine regions in California, is now an up-and-comer, bringing a shiny new style to old vines and new varietals with a signature Alpine climate character. A new generation of winemakers have energized the region, maximizing the high altitude terroir and diverse soils into a distinctive “sense of place” and "Sierra Spice" accent, catching the attention of wine critics.

California Gold Rush, El Dorado, between 1848 and 1853, Courtesy of the Library of Congress

Historical photograph, Courtesy of Boeger Winery

History and geography weave a powerful spell, and no more so than here. When James Marshall discovered gold at Sutter’s Mill in 1848, the rush was on, drawing over 300,000 prospectors, known as “49ers”, to the area, bringing their traditions of wine with them. Anointed El Dorado County in 1850 by the first California Legislature (the Spanish translation of “El Dorado” is “The Golden One”) an economic boom and population explosion followed, propelling El Dorado wines to the stratosphere. Then the bust happened, followed by Prohibition, which finished the fairy tale. But in the late 1960’s, a new rush was launched, with experimental vineyards and wines proof of liquid gold, attracting new investment. Today, over 70 wineries make up El Dorado wine country, whose mountain-grown magic imbues the wines with lush fruit, vivid acidity, gentle tannins and an enticing balance, crafted from more than 100 varieties, literally a mother lode of possibilities.

Lava Cap vineyard

Starfield vineyard

Holly's Hill vineyard

Element 79 vineyard

The El Dorado AVA is one of eight counties in the Sierra Mountain AVA, and is the largest, defined by its elevation, which ranges from 1,100-3,500 feet, where rolling vineyards meet the rugged Sierra Nevada mountains. Over 2,000 acres of vines populate the area, with ideal growing conditions, where hundreds of microclimates and diurnal temperature swings bring body and depth to the wines, making them captivating in their essence. Many of these Sierra Foothills wineries are family-run, with some up to fifth generation winemakers continuing the legacy. They describe their wines as Alpine, which translates to vibrant and refreshing, lighter-bodied and alive on the palate. Another notable descriptor, is their distinctive spiciness, referred to as “Sierra Spice”, a blend of evergreen trees and Sierra snowmelt, that seems to infuse the wines’ character.

Lava Cap Vineyards with Nolan Jones

Cantiga Wineworks with Rich and Christine Rordan

Original Skinner cellar with Carey and Mike Skinner

In April, I had the chance to explore this exciting, relatively unknown region with a group of wine writers, organized by the Visit El Dorado visitors authority. It was eye-opening, a revelation of how distinct these wines are, visiting eleven wineries from four defined wine-growing areas over five days.

Cappelli Wines

Marco Cappelli explaining his reusable process to the LA Wine Writers

Marco Cappelli demonstrates how the bottles are filled

Ready to pour in the tasting room or take home

Day One brought us to Marco Cappelli of Cappelli Wines, a highly influential winemaker and consultant who came to El Dorado County over 20 years ago. Cappelli not only talks the talk but walks the walk, currently operating a tasting room in Placerville that embodies his dedication to sustainability. Offering a rotating selection of local wines, served from reusable bottles that are filled from 15-gallon kegs, the wines are delicious and affordable. These small batch wines are geared to locals, Cappelli making wines that his customers like, while keeping prices low. By marketing his wines in this way, it’s almost like a seasonal selection, they don’t have to be “shelf stable” since they are drunk within three months. Customers are encouraged to bring back the bottles they purchase when empty, receiving a $2 discount on already inexpensive wines, under $20 a bottle. Cappelli has found that 80% of the bottles are reused, conserving over 10 tons of glass in 2024, savings that he passes on to his customers.

Marco Cappelli of Cappelli Wines with his Angelica

Cappelli is a fascinating man, smitten by wine in college, he went on to train in Europe, and returned to Napa Valley, achieving fame as winemaker for Swanson Vineyards. In 2004, he purchased land in the Fair Play AVA, which had 42 acres of vineyards and a house. But he quickly realized that this endeavor wasn’t going to pay the bills, so he began working with local vineyards and wineries, offering sage advice on how to turn their terroir into polished wines. In fact, we found that Marco Cappelli is the common thread among many of the wineries we visited, his guidance important to shaping today’s wines. After the Caldor Fire of 2021, Cappelli decided to sell his vineyard, and he purchased the Placerville tasting room, where he could focus on producing his own wines.

We tasted over eight wines, all so very interesting. Marco sources fruit from all over, but only within a 90 minute drive from Placerville, so the chances that these wines would be available at a future visit are very slim, but here are a few standouts from the tasting flights.

Marco Cappelli with his Fortified Muscat, in an antique decanter

The Chardonnay is very fragrant, aromatic with pineapple notes, the Barbera Rosé is fruity and delicious, while the Sangiovese, 100% single vineyard, is ripe and fleshy, but with a refreshing vein of acidity. The Alicante Bouschet is meaty and spicy, while the Fair Play Barbera, Marco’s favorite style of wine, is fruit forward and so very bright. The Fortified Muscat, made with Muscat Canelli and Orange Muscat, is made like a Port wine, fermented with the skins and fortified with brandy, and aged in French Oak barrels for 18 months, fruity and complex, a balanced sweetness and acidity.

Capelli Angelica

Historic bottle with Capelli Angelica

But now, for the unusual holy smokes experience, the Angelica! This is a historic style of wine from California’s Mission era in the 1770’s, made from 140-year-old Mission vines in nearby Amador County. These vines were originally brought from the Canary Islands, named “Mission” because of its relationship with the Church. This is a very different wine, Angelica is made with little or no fermentation, and Brandy is added to the juice, bringing the alcohol level up to 20%, then aged in barrel for many years before release. A blend of many vintages are blended in a Solera system, with an average age of nine years, making for a rich, sweet and smooth wine with complex aromas of dried fruit, nut and caramel.

Delfino Farms/Edio Vineyards

Derek and Christine Delfino of Delfino Farms/Edio Vineyards

Day Two took us to the Camino area, visiting three family-owned wineries with second and third generation winemakers at the helm. First stop, Delfino Farms, home to Edio Vineyards, Joan’s Apple Bakery and Henrietta Stich Cider, is located in the Apple Hill area, and a true family project. Four siblings pooled their resources together over five years ago to purchase the property from their grandfather Edio’s trust. Originally from Napa Valley, Edio Delfino was a mover and shaker who came to El Dorado County in 1960, and purchased this land, a former pear orchard that had been wiped out by blight. He established Delfino Farms as a family apple orchard, along with his wife Joan, who started the bakery, creating the Apple Hill Growers Association. Interesting note, today Apple Hill is the most visited agritourism area in North America, attracting over 1.2 million people every year. Over 20 years ago, Chris, one of Edio’s seven children, took over the farm and planted vineyards. In 2017, Chris’s four children, Ben, Peter, Christine and Derek, established Edio Vineyards, to honor the family’s patriarch. But when Edio passed away, his trust provided for all seven children and 20 grandchildren, and in the interest of fairness, would have to be sold. That’s when the four siblings stepped in, and bought the farm.

Here at Delfino Farms, you get the full “Alpine” essence, at 3,000 feet, the vineyards run close to the evergreen trees, and near the 50 acres of mostly Golden Delicious apples. The intensity of the sunlight, along with a long hang time, gives the wines more flavor, while that Sierra Spice is very apparent. Forty-five acres of grapevines are organic and dry-farmed, with the top layer of these granite soils an iron-rich clay, which brings a distinctive profile to the wines. The family also leases an additional 12 acres to produce different wines, as most of Edio Vineyards are Rhône varieties.

Christine and Derek Delfino of Delfino Farms/Edio Vineyards

When you visit Delfino Farms/Edio Vineyards, there is usually always a family owner or member onsite, who will not only pour your tasting flight but also explain their journey (not easy) and detail their challenges and plans for the future. On our visit, Derek and Christine greeted us, pouring six wines while relaying their emotional connection to the farm. They reiterated that these are “alpine wines, fresh and balanced, like the mountain air, nourished by spring water from snow melt.” Christine, whom Derek calls the “brains behind Delfino”, is focused on the future, offering a bridge to a younger generation of wine lovers seeking “experiences” and not just wine tasting. So, a full farm experience was created, with live summer concerts, annual Snout to Tail dinner, and hard ciders production, while Joan’s Bakery continues the traditions, with seasonal pies from farm-grown fruit, the original family recipes handmade exactly like “Nanny Joan”.

Edio Vineyards flagship wines are the Mourvedre and Albarino, true crowd pleasers. Describing their Mourvedre as the “poor man’s Cab”, they feel that this will be their signature grape, putting them on the wine map. Savory and meaty, a light color belies the intense fruit and loads of acidity. While the Albarino is a “French-inspired version”, aromatic with good structure, it’s saline and fresh. The Delfino family are united in their goal, to honor their family while forging their own path forward.

Boeger Winery

Greg Boeger of Boeger Winery

Next, Boeger Winery, started by Greg Boeger in 1972, this is the first post-Prohibition winery in the El Dorado AVA. Before Prohibition, in the mid-1800s, this property was a winery and distillery, serving the hordes of gold miners. Greg is a pioneer in the region, the first to return winemaking to El Dorado County’s historical roots. His background in winemaking allowed him to recognize the potential of this property, experimenting with Barbera and other lesser-known varietals. It turns out that Italian varieties and some Spanish ones thrive here, with Barbera becoming their signature wine, as well as for most of El Dorado County. Initially, Boeger planted Bordeaux varieties here and received acclaim for his Merlot in the 1980’s, including having it served at The White House. But he went on to experiment with other wine grapes that seemed to do better.

Greg and Justin Boeger of Boeger Winery

We were greeted by Greg and his son, Justin, who is carrying forward the torch, or maybe, I should say, the arrow. The name Boeger means “archer” in German, a connection to their family history of blacksmiths and bowmen. Justin pointed out the symbolism of the name with the label, the wrap around label is for wines in distribution, the spear denotes reserve wines only sold at the tasting room. And by the way, the labels are designed by his sister, Lexi.

Justin Boeger tours the LA Wine Writers through Boeger Winery

As winemaker, Justin finds that with over 30 varieties grown, it can be a “blessing and a curse”, making quality wines while keeping an eye on each one separately. Fifty-five acres of vines are sustainably farmed, and elevation is important, offering cool and warm pockets within the steep terrain that can equally produce white and red varietals in many different microclimates. Over 19 wines are made, aged in neutral oak, to let the varietals shine. The Boegers have recently concentrated on their white wines, offering a wide range of choices. Tasting nine wines, from a sparkling Sauvignon Blanc split to Aglianico, the wines are delicious and affordable. Falanghina, Negroamaro, and the fun Hangtown Gold Lot 20, an homage to the Gold Rush history of Placerville, plus the fabulous Estate Barbera, offer drinking pleasure.

In addition to wine tasting, Boeger’s estate is beautiful, with many picnic areas nestled among the historical buildings and meandering creek, including the 1872 Historic Cellar, which is on the National Register of Historic Places. Greg Boeger staked his claim here over 50 years ago, and today has watched his winery grow to one of the largest producers in El Dorado County. In 2018, Greg was recognized with a Wine Lifetime Achievement Award for his immense contributions to California wine.

Lava Cap Winery

The final stop of the day, Lava Cap Winery, is another family project, selected for its unusual site, by this family of geologists. In 1979, the Jones family were looking for a property that had volcanic soils, which is well-suited to growing fine wine grapes. Putting their roots down here, in the highest elevation vineyards in California, the Jones family embraced the “lava cap”, prospecting for their own liquid gold. Seventeen varieties were planted, taking advantage of the diurnal temperature swings, patchwork of microclimates and excellent drainage provided by the volcanic soils. Lava Cap is dedicated to sustainable practices, including owl boxes and wildlife habitat areas. In fact, their wine label proudly features the Steller’s Jay bird, a resident of the property.

Nolan Jones of Lava Cap Winery takes the LA Wine Writers on a tour of their special vineyards

Nolan Jones took us on a walking tour of the vineyards, where outcroppings of lava poked through the rows. Jones noted, “Miners looked for lava flows, because thin bands of volcanic flows mixed with gold-bearing gravels”, connecting with El Dorado County’s Gold Rush history. These soils and climate have allowed Lava Cap to make fine wine, crisp, mineral whites and fruity, intense reds, all with fragrant aromatics and bright fresh flavors.

Nolan Jones explains their winemaking process to the LA Wine Writers

Nolan Jones of Lava Cap Winery

Lava Cap produces almost two dozen wines, almost all of them estate-grown. Jones said, “We are staying true to our vision, and the unique history, and the site, to make wines of precision, with good acid and balance.” And definitely, these wines have that Alpine essence. Tasting eight wines, from a Vermentino to an excellent Merlot, which was silky, with dark fruit, allspice, and plum, it’s amazing that all this diversity is found in one place. They make an old vine Zinfandel, that is the highest elevation Zinfandel on the West Coast, Cabernet Franc, Petite Sirah, a Rosé of Dolcetto and Grenache, plus their very popular Chardonnay. Jones commented, “El Dorado County wines need more exposure, in wines by-the-glass programs in restaurants”, so that wine drinkers can discover these elegant, lifted, and fruit-driven wines.

Cantiga Wineworks

Day Three found us on the road to the Fair Play AVA, up winding mountain roads to three very different wineries. First stop, Cantiga Wineworks, is literally a step back in time. Christine and Rich Rorden make wines the way California wines were made over 40 years ago, with a focus on an Old World style. A boutique winery with a small case production, Cantiga Wineworks is a laboratory of minimal intervention, no chemical additives, low sulfites and no malolactic fermentation, along with long aging, a recipe for “natural wines” that offer hope to those who suffer wine allergies.

Christine and Rich Rordan of Cantiga Wineworks

Rich’s father was a serious home winemaker, and enlisted Rich in his endeavors since he was a child. Over 20 years ago, Christine and Rich bought this land, upon the recommendation of a family friend, who felt that the Rordens’ style of winemaking was best suited to El Dorado County, with its many microclimates, high elevation and cool nights, yielding high quality fruit. Rich was smitten, “I loved the array of varieties that can be grown here, the winemaking culture of small producers and family-owned wineries. It hasn’t gone corporate, it’s personal and inviting.”

And Rich knows a thing or two about corporate, he worked as a mechanical engineer in the aerospace industry, designing satellites, prior to being a winemaker. In fact, those skills enabled him to design Cantiga’s buildings and supervise the construction, with a fascinating solution to keep cellar temperatures low. Insulated concrete forms (ICF) made it easier to build a modern tasting room/winery that looks like a Gothic church, not only keeping temperatures between 55-70 degrees all year long, but also the added benefit of being fire resistant.

Seth Picker and Rich Rordan give the LA Wine Writers the 'Spiel' on their non-malolactic fermentation wines

We were treated to their “Full Monty” tasting menu of five small bites and wines, a really fabulous way to appreciate the wines, and such a great deal. An estate Grenache and Semillon, along with Herbert Vineyard Syrah and Zinfandel, and a Cabernet Sauvignon, all 100% varietal with over five years of age, were poured, along with an extensive explanation of how they believe “malolactic fermentation and designer yeasts contribute to more histamines, and more wine sensitivities.” Seth Picker, assistant winemaker, helped explain that although not certified organic, they do minimal intervention. And although they can’t claim their wines’ health benefits, they’ve received feedback from people who said they can drink Cantiga Wineworks’ wines but not others.

There is a fun t-shirt in the tasting room that says, “I Survived the ‘Spiel’ at Cantiga Wineworks”, and it’s funny but true, the Rordens’ enthusiasm for what they are doing is infectious. Starting with a passion for winemaking, named for a medieval Spanish song (Cantiga), and taking the path less traveled, non-malolactic winemaking is key for Christine and Rich.

Element 79 Vineyards

Chef Brian Overhauser, Photo by Cori Solomon

Next stop, Element 79 Vineyards, a nod to gold, the 79th element on the periodic table, and the year owners Les and Sharon Heinsen were married (1979). They established the vineyard almost 20 years ago, but only opened the tasting room in 2018, creating paired food and wine experiences. Chef Brian Overhauser oversees the program, believing that “consumers explore flavors of wine not possible without food.”

These “Wine Country Tapas” are fantastic, tasting six wines with artful and divine dishes, such as Vietnamese Banh Mi Tacos, New York style Pastrami Sliders, BBQ Chicken Flatbread, and an incredible charcuterie platter. Outstanding wines include a sparkling Rosé of Zinfandel and Syrah (in a can!), Abby’s Rosé (Zinfandel, Syrah, Viognier), Estate Zinfandel, and the 24-Carat Vineyard Select, made only in the best years.

About the estate, Element 79 is planted to 32 acres of grapes, with the lower vineyard made up of Zinfandel, Cabernet Franc, Petit Verdot and Syrah. The upper vineyard consists of Petite Sirah, Cabernet Sauvignon and Viognier. According to Overhauser, the Fair Play AVA has a unique latitude/longitude orientation of its vineyards, which can make wines taste different even if made with the same clone.

Element 79 also offers three food events monthly; Dine in the Vines, Sunday Funday wine brunch, and Element 79 Divining, all the more ways to ‘divine’ the alchemy of food and wine pairing, maximizing the enjoyment of both.

Toogood Estate Winery

Last stop, Toogood Estate Winery, and don’t laugh, this is the actual last name of founder Paul Toogood. Established in 2001, and purchased by the Mittelstaedt family in 2019, they envisioned a family business that would carry on the wine traditions of Paul Toogood, with a unique cave tasting for their wines, the only one in the area.

Tim Mittelstaedt of Toogood Estate Winery pouring our tasting

Tim Mittelstaedt was our host, and he shared his family’s story along with nine wines, of which Marco Capelli is the winemaker, since 2005. Twelve acres are planted with seven red varieties, and other fruit is sourced from 10-12 winegrowers, including the Herbert Vineyard, the oldest in El Dorado County.

The LA Wine Writers toast Toogood Estate Winery

Tim Mittelstaedt of Toogood Estate Winery with the Double D Pinot Noir Port

Toogood is direct to consumer only, and focused on their wine club, with four different options, the most popular and unique is the Port Club. Capelli makes 25-30 versions of Port for them, and is legally able to use the name ‘Port’, since his grandfather made it prior to the laws changing. These ports are so very different, from Alicante Bouschet to Albarino, there is one among them that has special significance. The Double D Pinot Noir Port, “a port with a purpose”, is dedicated to Darin Mittelstaedt, their mother, who was diagnosed with Parkinson’s Disease in 2018. A portion of the proceeds are donated to Parkinson’s research yearly. And if you can’t get enough with just the small bottles, they sell a Port Pony Keg, too, fulfilling their motto, "Live Da Life, Love Da Wine".

Rob and Tom Sinton of Starfield Vineyards

Day Four brought us back to the Placerville area, visiting three wineries, of which two are family-owned and run. First up, Starfield Vineyards & Winery, a family passion project that is over ten years old, but has been in their DNA for decades. Tom Sinton was always interested in vineyards and winemaking, and in the early 1970’s, planted and managed a Paso Robles vineyard while studying enology at UC Davis. But he left the wine world for 20 years, to run his own business. Then in 2003, he decided to come back to his first love, making wine, and started with a custom crush project in Napa Valley, as he says, “I wanted to make a splash in the wine industry!” The search was on for the perfect spot to realize his dreams, and in 2012, he and his son, Rob, settled on these 31 acres in the Sierra Foothills, falling in love with the Apple Hill area. Planting followed the next year, with 17 different Rhône, Italian and Spanish varieties, and in 2016, the first wines were made, becoming today’s delicate, floral whites and savory, robust reds, what they call their “Mountain Mediterraneans”. Currently, over 20 wines are produced.

Lake Pavilion

Amphitheater

The name Starfield refers to the Sintons’ belief that great wine comes from “Star Fields”, that they define as “unique sites where fruit develops the optimal balance of aroma, flavor and texture”. Rob and Tom discovered a learning curve here in El Dorado County, especially with the Rhône varieties, even traveling to France’s Rhône Valley to find the style they liked. Starting from square one, the tasting room, Lake Pavilion, Amphitheater and extensive gardens were planned with precision. Tom plowed his enthusiasm for trees and flowers into a blank slate, weaving an oasis of green and water among the vines. He flagged every tree grown along the three miles of nature trails, bordered by seasonal flowers and shrubs, it’s an amazingly beautiful property. Designed to radiate like spokes of a wheel from the tasting room to the bottom of the hill, it brings guests full-circle, just like Tom Sinton’s life journey.

Rob tasted us through seven wines, all truly divine. The whites are barrel-fermented in neutral oak, with lees stirring, for aromatic, crisp but creamy textured wines; the reds are fermented in small lots, aged in a combination of different oak barrels, blended and aged more, for a robust quality.

Rob Sinton with Starfield Vineyards' Sparkling Brut Rosé

The Sparkling Brut Rosé is 96% Grenache, bright and aromatic, mineral and complex, with tiny bubbles that dance upon your palate with balance and grace. I had the opportunity to first taste this bubbly beauty at Festival of the Forgotten Grapes, and fell in love with it. The Sintons love Champagne and started experimenting with making their own sparklers. With this Brut Rosé success, they are looking to expand their production of sparkling wines, currently offering a Sparkling Brut Moscato, but looking to add Viognier, Fiano, a Blanc de Blanc and a Blanc de Noir. The base wines are made at Element 79’s custom crush facility, and the Sintons are still tinkering with the best methods. Although there is 4% Syrah in the blend, Tom says it’s a “field blend”, picked separately but pressed together, the “integration is pretty special”, a stellar wine from Starfield.

Rob Sinton explains the 'Sierra Spice' element that is present in so many El Dorado County wines

Rob and Tom Sinton of Starfield Vineyards

The Marsanne is a leaner, crisper and fresher version of France’s Rhône wine, citrus and mineral with a hint of diesel and a touch of creaminess, and that distinctive Sierra Spice fragrance. The Viognier, so tropical in its essence, yet retains that brightness that El Dorado County is known for. The Grenache, bright and fresh, displays a depth of fruit, along with notes of spice, herb, and tobacco leaf. The Cinsaut, Rob’s favorite, is a grippier style, normally a soft tannin wine, it’s juicy, fruit forward yet delicate. The Miner’s Inch, a blend of 8 varieties, is inspired by GSM blends, an easy drinking but interesting wine, shaped by the character of their vineyards, with that inevitable Sierra Spice. The Tannat thrives at Starfield, a bold wine that channels rich and savory while flashing bright fruit notes. The Sintons really have something special going on, and it looks like Tom will get his wish, “making a splash” in the world of wine.

Miraflores Winery

Next stop, Miraflores Winery, of the Pleasant Valley AVA, which specializes in Rhône varietals. This is a large property, over 252 acres of which 42 are planted to grapes, 16 varieties in all. Zinfandel is their claim to fame, with their Estate Yellow Block achieving high scores. Muscat Canelli is planted around the tasting room, while the hillside vineyards, at 2900 feet, give birth to Cabernet Sauvignon, Petite Verdot and Cabernet Franc. At this elevation, they get snow in winter, and the vines are the last to go through bud break.

Fernando Abarca, winemaker for Miraflores Winery

"The Originals" flight from Miraflores Winery

Fernando Abarca is currently the winemaker, taking over from Marco Capelli, who continues to act as consultant. General Manager Ashlee Cuneo gave us a brief introduction to their story, Miraflores is celebrating their 20th anniversary of wine. Over this time, several of the wines have received high ratings from wine publications. We explored their wines, from a choice of six flights, I chose the Originals, wines that they’ve made since the very beginning. All reds, these are big, muscular wines, intense and concentrated, from their Yellow Block Zinfandel to Teroldego and their Estate Reserve Trilegato, a blend of Zinfandel, Syrah and Petite Sirah. Miraflores offers summer food and wine pairings and other hospitality events, including different chefs that prepare a four course lunch, paired with their wines and the breathtaking views.

Holly's Hill Vineyards

Josh and Carrie Bendick of Holly's Hill Vineyards & Brewery

Final stop of the day, Holly’s Hill Vineyards & Brewery, a small family-owned project of Carrie and Josh Bendick. Named for Carrie's mother, Holly Cooper, it was Holly that forged the initial retirement plan, wanting to live on a hill that could make great Rhône varietal wines, her inspiration was Châteauneuf-du-Pape. Originally, 15 acres of Syrah were planted on the steep terraced hillside, some of these vines came from cuttings from the Rhône Valley. Then several years later, they added Counoise, Grenache Blanc, Petite Sirah, Carignane, Cinsaut and Picpoul. A second vineyard was planted on the adjacent hillside, where Roussanne, Viognier, Counoise, Grenache and Mourvedre have found their sweet spot.

Josh and Carrie Bendick of Holly's Hill Vineyards & Brewery

Carrie was intrigued with the idea of making wine, and learned on the job at a local winery, where she met Josh, her future husband. Together they make elegant wines, as it’s been done for centuries in the Rhône Valley, minimal intervention, with that very Sierra Spice accent. But Josh also makes beer, seeking to attract a younger crowd. Five craft beers, along with another five rotating selections, are offered on tap. Maybe it will be the gateway beverage, because their wines are very good. Sixteen wines are produced, mostly whites, with an unusual canned dry hopped Clairette. We tasted through seven wines, from Viognier to Syrah, and for me, the Mourvèdre Classique, Patriarch MSG blend, and Fenaughty Syrah really shine.

Carrie Bendick with Holly's Hill Patriarche

Holly's Hill Patriarche label, based on Aldo Luongo's painting "The Good Life", a serigraph hangs in the tasting room

There have been plenty of challenges here, the lack of water, and threat of fires and frost, are always present, in addition to market conditions, but Carrie and Josh are committed to “The Good Life”, a reference to a painting that her parents bought, by Aldo Luongo. It’s featured on their Patriarch label, the message, “live life to the fullest”. As Josh writes of their winemaking efforts, in his Vineyards Blog, it’s “high-altitude hustle, with mountain-grown magic”, eloquently committing to “the rugged vibes, high altitudes and the thrill of pushing boundaries”. It’s this love affair with El Dorado County wines that keep them going, making the Rhône varietal wines that are so very distinctive.

Mike and Carey Skinner of Skinner Vineyards

Legacy vines planted at the historic site

Day Five brought us to Skinner Vineyards & Winery, whose fascinating tale of discovery and family ties brought Carey and Mike Skinner to El Dorado wine country. Almost 20 years ago, a serendipitous turn of events led to the Skinners finding a link to the past, which changed their future. Mike’s son, Kevin, and his wife, Kathy, were traveling to Lake Tahoe, when they spotted “Skinners, CA” on an old map and stopped to investigate. Following a lead, they went to a nearby Gold Rush era cemetery and uncovered several tombstones with the name “Skinner”. Mike picked up the search, and found a likely family tree connection. It seems that a Scottish gold miner, James Skinner, used his gains to buy land, and planted vineyards that later became J. Skinner Winery and Distillery, one of the first wineries in the nation, circa 1861. Two weeks later, Mike and Carey traveled to the town of Rescue. Here, they felt the past call to them, and purchased 25 acres close to the original Skinner property. Prospecting for their own liquid gold, the Skinners bought more vineyards and built a family legacy, connecting the past to the present, while making very fine Rhône varietal wines.

Ancient Mission vines outside of the historic Skinner cellar

Mike and Carey Skinner of Skinner Vineyards in the historic stone cellar

We started at the beginning, meeting Carey and Mike at the original Skinner Ranch in Rescue, that they purchased in 2014 to preserve this piece of California history, located on the Old Pony Express Trail. Although the site had been a nursery, the original cellar was still there, so they set about carefully preserving it, making it part of the Skinner’s legacy. They planted six of James Skinner’s original varieties, including the historic Mission grape, of which they found 22 old vines and transplanted them here. These 125-year-old gnarled vines are still producing grapes, which the Skinners use to make their version of Angelica wine. In its heyday, in 1883, this was one of the largest stone wine cellars in the country, capable of storing 15,000 gallons of wine. Today, they age Brandy, Angelica and Port here, behind a locked gate, nestled in the cool comfort of their ancestral cellar, that is listed in the National Register of Historic Places.

Carey Skinner welcomes you to their Green Valley Ranch tasting room

Carey Skinner explains how special these wines are to her family

Skinner Vineyards' Green Valley Ranch, Courtesy of Skinner Vineyards

We then travelled to their Green Valley Ranch, in the Fair Play AVA, a beautiful and bucolic property where Stoney Creek Vineyards’ 18 acres of vines climb the steep rocky hillsides at higher elevation, between 2,300-2,740 feet. Here, the winery, tasting room, and family home reside, along with their three horses. Fourteen varieties are planted, including Petite Bouschet, which has been designated as the Skinner Clone by UC Davis. The Skinners make wine from this property, in addition to another vineyard at Wing Ranch, a warmer and lower elevation site, plus they purchase fruit from other local growers. They produce over 18 wines, with 100% varietal wines and blends that honor their heritage. The Seven Generations, a white Rhône blend, refers to the number of Skinner generations to date since 1861; the Native Rouge and Blanc, a tribute that revives the Skinner heritage blends, also from 1861. Their mission, “To be true to the grape and the terroir, following in the path of the original Skinner Legacy plantings”. As their website says, “It is a jigsaw puzzle we giddily assemble each year in order to make wines that speak to the entire El Dorado County region, which is nothing short of magical.”

Carey Skinner speaks of the Native Rouge wine

We tasted through eleven wines, almost every one of them was magical. We were greeted with a glass of their graceful Blanc de Blancs, followed by Viognier, Native Rouge, Cinsaut, Grenache, Petite Sirah, Counoise, and two other special wines. The 1861 GSM blend, fashioned after Châteauneuf-du-Pape, has texture and pure fruit expression, while the Angelica, a non-vintage blend of three years, is a direct link to the past, fascinating in its essence and body.

This journey has been meaningful and life-changing for Carey and Mike Skinner, plus their children and grandchildren, it has brought them closer through a shared connection to their Gold Rush past, inhabiting James Skinner’s adventurous spirit, and focusing on today’s modern day winemaking, producing wines of quality and elegance.

El Dorado County is experiencing a modern-day gold rush, not of nuggets but of fabulous wine, mined by families focused on pouring their distinctive vein of terroir, Sierra Spice, bright acidity and Alpine essence into glasses of liquid gold. The Gold Rush is calling, it’s time to prospect the dazzling wines of El Dorado County.

For more information, and to plan your visit:

Visit El Dorado County, https://visit-eldorado.com/
Capelli Wine, https://www.cappelliwine.com/
Delfino Farms, https://delfinofarms.com/
Boeger Winery, https://www.boegerwinery.com/
Lava Cap Winery, https://www.lavacap.com/
Cantiga Wineworks, https://www.cantigawine.com/
Element 79 Vineyards, https://www.element79vineyards.com/
Toogood Estate Winery, https://www.toogoodwinery.com/
Starfield Vineyards, https://www.starfieldvineyards.com/
Miraflores Winery, https://mirafloreswinery.com/
Holly's Hill Vineyards & Brewery, https://hollyshill.com/
Skinner Vineyards, https://skinnervineyards.com/