The Princely Wines of Liechtenstein, Captivating and Elegant Wines That Blend History and Modern Intrigue
July 13, 2025
July 13, 2025
Once upon a time, in the tiny country of Liechtenstein, a modern-day princess and the keeper of the wine cellars made a pact, to evolve her family’s wines past their historical traditions to today’s sophisticated palates. But this is no regular princess, she is Sommelière Princess Marie von Liechtenstein, and together with Winery Director Stefan Tscheppe, they are retooling the wines of the kingdom to reach a new audience. But, first, a nod to the past.
The royal family’s roots go back to the 12th century, with the first mention of Hugo von Liechtenstein, naming himself after the Liechtenstein Castle. Over the centuries, the family expanded their holdings, and in the 15th century, vineyards became part of the estate. In the 17th century, the County of Vaduz was acquired, and the principality of Liechtenstein was born. Focus was placed on the vineyards in Liechtenstein and Austria, and over the next few centuries, expansion and restructuring of the princely winery took place, with two main cellars, Vaduz and Wilfersdorf.
In Vaduz, the Herawingert vineyard is the most esteemed and important in Liechtenstein, considered one of the best sites in the Rhine River Valley and the center of winegrowing in the country. Here, 45-year-old vines yield 90% Pinot Noir and 10% Chardonnay, from approximately 10 acres of slate and limestone soils. In Wilfersdorf, Austria, the dominant varieties are Riesling and Grüner Veltliner, grown from 40-year-old vines in the Karlsberg and Johannisbergen vineyards, planted on 75 acres of Loess soils with a high dissolved limestone content.
Today, in the 21st century, the Liechtenstein Winery has been renovated, blending the traditions of the past with a modern and fresh approach. The Prince of Liechtenstein’s court cellars, known as the Hoffkellerei des Fürsten von Liechtenstein, were revised, at Princess Marie’s urging, to create wines for the future. Hoffkellerei director Stefan Tscheppe took over in 2019, and changed the style of both wineries to an origin-oriented approach, similar to Burgundy wines which are labeled according to vineyard location, instead of varietal names like Pinot Noir or Chardonnay. Renowned vineyard consultant Stéphane Derenoncourt was brought onboard, helping the transition to organic farming, and a modern pressing and processing cellar was constructed above the 18th century cellars at Wilfersdorf.
So, from this principality, ruled by Prince Hans-Albert, the world’s smallest wine-producing country adopts a bold approach. Contradicting a modern trend toward varietal labeling, Tscheppe wants origin first, more like a fine wine, meant to resonate with the right people, and to shine the international spotlight on these wines, seeking critical acclaim.
Recently, I had the opportunity to taste three of the Princely wines on a Zoom call with Stefan Tscheppe. An overall picture was painted of the vineyards and terroir, it’s a continental climate; the Herrnbaumgarten area of Wilfersdorf, with cold air from the Czech Republic, favors Riesling and Grüner Veltliner, producing vivid, structured wines; the Herrawingert area of Vaduz sees warm winds from Italy, allowing for a short window to grow Chardonnay and Pinot Noir, producing a leaner, more delicate style.
First, the Princely Winery of Liechtenstein Herrnbaumgarten 2022 (SRP $23) is so intriguing, fresh with lively acidity, and aromatic with quince, passion fruit, stone fruit, lavender and mint. It’s salty and mineral, full of exotic fruit and spice on the palate, gliding along a long finish. Stefan says this “animated taste on the persistent finish” is a characteristic of the region, considered the foothills of the Danube River delta. It’s considered a “village wine”, a cuvée of Grüner Veltliner and Riesling, a thirst-quenching, good food wine that pairs well with spicy and Asian foods. Stefan feels that the work done to regenerate the soils is key, although the work in the cellar gives it the style, 3% Riesling left on the skins to give the wine a lift of acidity, and aging in 25% neutral oak tonneau allows for oxygenation, which is his style. And I must say, this is a fascinating and delicious wine!
Next, the Princely Winery of Liechtenstein Ried Karlsberg 2021 (SRP $48), a Burgundian style cuvée of Riesling and Grüner Veltliner, it’s a single vineyard wine, elegant and structured, aromatic with ripe stone fruit and citrus, floral notes and a hint of smoky flint on the nose. Multi-faceted, like a gem, this wine has layers of taut energy, tangy acidity, and a salty mineral expression. Extremely fresh in taste and color, the Karlsberg can age easily for 35-40 years, retaining its mineral spark. Labeled as a “grand cuvée of old vines”, it has so much character, I found it captivating! Stefan relayed that it is “more toned down because of the oak treatment”, giving it texture and finesse, producing a more refined and elegant wine.
Last but not least, the Princely Winery of Liechtenstein Herawingert 2020 (SRP $60) is 100% Pinot Noir, a leaner, more delicate style. Aromas of strawberry and raspberry, bitter chocolate, cherry blossoms, juniper and dried stone fruit swirl on the nose, with an earthy, more structured palate of red-berried fruit, ripe tannins, and a firm, long mineral finish. Fermented with 20% whole cluster and aged in 500L French oak tonneaus, this single vineyard wine is from the fabled Herawingert vineyard, which is in transition to becoming certified.
For all these wines, Stefan emphasizes that “freshness is the pillar”, and that “you can feel the heritage in the wines”. He strongly feels that the organic/regenerative approach is absolutely worth all the extra work, “How you treat the vineyards is a game changer. There’s no reason not to do this, the wine is better, more expressive, and if done right, you can see it in the wine.”
In the Hofkellerei des Fürsten von Liechtenstein, it’s a team effort. Coordinating personnel from Wilfersdorf and Vaduz, there’s also a presence in Vienna, at the Garden Palace Vinothek & Bar, they are all cheered on by Princess Marie and guided by Stefan Tscheppe. They are putting in the time, and taking the long view, producing “wines that offer princely pleasure” with big, complex personalities from one of the world’s smallest countries. It’s a noble pursuit that will enthrall and beguile wine lovers around the world.
The Princely Wines of Liechtenstein, https://www.hofkellerei.at/en/startseite.html
The Princely Winery of Liechtenstein Herrnbaumgarten, https://www.hofkellerei.at/en/shop/detail/362/herrnbaumgarten-cuvee-2023.html
The Princely Winery of Liechtenstein Ried Karlsberg, https://www.hofkellerei.at/en/shop/detail/358/ried-karlsberg-cuvee-2022.html
The Princely Winery of Liechtenstein Herawingert, https://www.hofkellerei.at/en/shop/detail/387/ried-herawingert-pinot-noir-2022.html
The Princely Wines of Liechtenstein, https://www.hofkellerei.at/en/startseite.html
The Princely Winery of Liechtenstein Herrnbaumgarten, https://www.hofkellerei.at/en/shop/detail/362/herrnbaumgarten-cuvee-2023.html
The Princely Winery of Liechtenstein Ried Karlsberg, https://www.hofkellerei.at/en/shop/detail/358/ried-karlsberg-cuvee-2022.html
The Princely Winery of Liechtenstein Herawingert, https://www.hofkellerei.at/en/shop/detail/387/ried-herawingert-pinot-noir-2022.html