Cadgal, the Sparkly New Incarnation of Moscato d'Asti
November 30, 2024

Reflecting the shimmer of the holiday season, Moscato d’Asti’s sweet sparkle, citrusy acidity and low alcohol makes for a perfect holiday treat.  Bursting with aromas of stone fruit (think peaches and apricots), white flowers and sage, these lightly effervescent wines are so versatile for entertaining, easily paired with sashimi, oysters, foie gras, aged cheese and salami, as well as the classic fruit desserts.  But not all Moscato are created equal, and Cadgal of Piemonte is seeking to redefine its normal sweet nature, creating wines and an identity that they hope can compare to some of the great sweet whites of Europe.  Old vines and aged wines make up the new avant-garde direction of Moscato d’Asti for Cadgal.

Alessandro Varagnolo, Courtesy of Cadgal

The historic winery estate of Cadgal, Tenuta Valdivilla, in the Langhe area of Piemonte, Courtesy of Cadgal

Alessandro Varagnolo always had a dream of having his own winery.  Working as an industrial consultant, Varagnolo indulged his obsession with wine through study and networking, returning to his roots in the Piemonte region of northwestern Italy.  Over two years ago, the opportunity presented itself when the owner of Cadgal decided to retire.  Varagnolo purchased Ca’D’Gal, a historic winery with two estate properties, Tenuta Valdivilla in Langhe and Tenuta La Cova in Monferrato Asti, and set about restyling the brand.  Building upon the previous owner’s wealth of knowledge and experience, Varagnolo designed a new logo and corporate identity, focusing on high quality wine and hospitality.  Artistic new labels, done by local painters, and the rooster figure adorns the bottles, a nod to the Piemontese “rooster home”, or Ca’D’Gal, “House of Gal” in English.  In the modernization of the brand, the apostrophes have been left out, making Cadgal its new name.

Moscato d’Asti is traditionally made from Moscato Bianco, also known as the ancient Muscat à Petits Grains, an early ripening grape that can produce a wide range of styles, from light and dry to rich and honeyed.  Cadgal, realizing the aging potential of Moscato, has focused on producing these niche wines.  Winemaking includes soft pressing of the grapes and fermentation in stainless steel autoclaves at controlled temperatures until the desired bubbles and 5% ABV are achieved, except for the Asti Spumante, which is produced using the Charmat method and is 7% ABV.

Recently I had the pleasure of exploring six Cadgal wines with Alessandro Varagnolo through a Zoom tasting, of which four were Moscato.  It was fascinating, since I’m accustomed to the fruity frizzante nature of most Moscato wines, but here, I discovered heady aromas, a depth of flavor and seamless balance.  Here’s a look at these unique wines.

The Cadgal Asti Spumante DOCG is smooth and delicate, very refreshing with a subtle sugar-acid balance, and a persistent bubble stream.  This is the most recent Moscato added to Cadgal’s lineup, a result of an American importer’s request for a “fresh and cheerful wine”.  Lively and fragrant with peach, elderflower, citrus and sage aromas, it’s a classic pairing with holiday desserts, but also recommended as a surprise accompaniment to shrimp, oysters, and seafood with noticeable salinity.  This wine is made in the Charmat method, bottled with a classic sparkling wine cork and cage, which keeps the beautiful, tiny bubbles continually rising up from the bottom of the glass, very enchanting!

​The Cadgal Lumine Moscato d’Asti DOCG 2023 is lively with tiny bubbles, fruity aromas intertwine with sage and rosemary, ending with a persistent finish of green apple, peach and apricot.  At 5% ABV, it strikes the perfect balance between sweetness and acidity, and all the more flavorful from the longer hang time on the vine in the higher elevation Valdivilla vineyard.  This is Cadgal’s largest offering and has been consistently recognized by wine critics for its quality.  There is something very Sauterne-like about this wine, sweeter yet the acidity contributes to its life in the glass.  Pairing with hazelnut-based desserts, salami or Gorgonozola is recommended.

​The Cadgal Sant’Ilario Canelli DOCG 2023 is more complex and refined, reflecting the finest 70-year-old Valdivilla vineyard plots.  Fruity notes of yellow peach and apricot, and sage play on the creamy and persistent bubbles, finishing long and intense.  There is a mineral essence, enhanced by separate vinifications of the different old vine plots, allowing for savory and gourmet food pairings, such as oysters or aged cheeses.  This wine took more time to produce, with longer cold soak and ferment times, and once bottled, is allowed to age in bottle for several months more, giving it a distinct and elegant profile.

The Cadgal Vite Vecchia Moscato d’Asti DOCG 2016 is the symbol incarnate of Cadgal’s ambitious rejuvenation project.  Made from a single Valdivilla vineyard plot, it is the last to be harvested, slightly overripe for the balance of sugar and acidity.  Vinified in autoclaves and rested on the lees, it’s the aging process that sets this wine apart.  This small production, 288 bottles, is aged for five years in crates covered with river sand, in darkness, humidity and static conditions, in order to replicate what previous generations did with grotto aging.  An enveloping bouquet of citrus, mint, sage, honey and menthol float above the light effervescence, ending in a nuanced finish.  More complex in nature, it’s a versatile wine, a good pair with sashimi, oysters, foie gras, aged cheeses and salami, as well as the traditional fruit desserts.  Vite Vecchia can age for over fifteen years, according to Cadgal.

In addition to the Moscatos, Cadgal included two still white wines for me to sample, which I very much enjoyed.  Both of these whites are new to Cadgal, released this year, and meant to show the versatility of their native and international varietals wine production.

The Cadgal Sauvignon Piemonte DOC 2023 unfurls with mouthwatering aromas of herbs and white fruit, a fresh wine with savory acidity.  Cadgal aimed at a softer expression of Sauvignon Blanc, not as bold and structured, but still so very aromatic, at 14% ABV.   After cold soaking of the grapes under a blanket of dry ice, the wine was then fermented in stainless steel autoclaves, and allowed to rest on the lees for several months until it is bottled.

The Cadgal Chardonnay Piemonte DOC 2023 is intensely fruity, wrapped around a vein of acidity, with aromas of banana and passion fruit.  Initially it is mouthwatering but soft on the palate, yet blossoms halfway through a sip, like a flower revealing its inner charms.  This wine was also produced like the Sauvignon, cold soaked under dry ice, fermented in autoclaves and rested on the lees until bottling time.

You can see the tufi soils surrounding the Cadgal Estate and Winery in Tenuta Valdivilla, Courtesy of Cadgal

The Team La Cova behind the new Cadgal brand, Courtesy of Cadgal

Cadgal is in the middle of a transformation, modernizing the brand and the wines, always sustainable but in the process of going organic.  The team behind Varagnolo and Cadgal are bridging the history of the winery with a fresh new perspective.  The vineyards are the perfect building blocks, composed of “tufi” soils, which are white marls and blue clays, these soils enhance the aromas and elegance of the wines.  With the different elevations and varying exposures among the rows of vines, it’s like a painter’s palette, with so many artistic expressions possible.

Cadgal Winery and Estate, Courtesy of Cadgal

The hills of Tenuta Valdivilla surrounding Cadgal Winery and Estate, Courtesy of Cadgal

Currently, Cadgal exports 80% of its 100,000 bottles produced, with Asia being its biggest market, but looking to expand its US presence.  Varagnolo is hoping to entice you to see what Cadgal and aged Moscato is all about!

Cadgal Winery, https://cadgal.it/

Cadgal Asti Spumante DOCG, https://cadgal.it/wp-content/uploads/2024/08/ENG_Asti-Spumante-DOCG.pdf 

Cadgal Lumine Moscato d'Asti DOCG, https://cadgal.it/wp-content/uploads/2024/08/ENG_Lumine-Moscato-dAsti-DOCG.pdf

Cadgal Sant'Ilario Canelli DOCG, https://cadgal.it/wp-content/uploads/2024/08/ENG_SantIlario-Canelli-DOCG.pdf

Cadgal Vite Vecchia Moscato d'Asti DOCG, https://cadgal.it/wines/vigna-vecchia/