Bordeaux Wine 2022, a Surprisingly Good Vintage Against All Odds
March 4, 2025
March 4, 2025
Bordeaux wine in 2022, according to producers, is a miracle, a refreshing surprise despite all the weather challenges, going down as one of the hottest and driest years on record. The UGCB (Union des Grands Crus de Bordeaux), a prestigious collective of over 130 top wine estates, toured the USA in January, revealing the 2022 vintage to the wine trade and press. Over three hours, the consensus was, the wines are vibrant, defying explanation and logic. Lots of theories were bandied about, maybe limestone soils in some areas added zestiness to the wines; perhaps the intensely small, ripe grapes created their own acidity during fermentation; but maybe more plausible, in a warming world, the vines are adjusting to a new reality. Assisted by changes in viticulture, an emphasis on improving the soil, using organic and biodynamic principles, seems to be logical, more cover crops in the vine rows adding to the health of the vines. It was whispered, among winemakers, that maybe the vines had learned from previous hot years, a kind of "vine intelligence" and are more resilient, especially as in 2022, that it was hot from the beginning of the season.
In any case, these Bordeaux wines, white and red, express complex aromas, a purity of fruit, bright yet low acidity, refined tannins and an elegant energy, such a delight! Of all wine regions, vintage has been a hallmark of Bordeaux wine for decades, with proclamations of “Vintage of the Century” declared numerous times, and perhaps more often in the past twenty years. While 2022 might not be the greatest of all time, it is a bright spot, an unexpected treat and a miracle in an uncertain world. Harvest was done in a leisurely fashion, some picking earlier, as in the whites, and others taking their time with the reds, with multiple picks. Winemakers didn’t agree on the best approach to making their wines, instead pursuing their own path to balance and elegance. Harmony is the common chord, with diverse styles and high quality among all categories of wine.
These are some of the highlights and people that make Bordeaux wine special, but a caveat, I wasn’t able to taste a fraction of the wonderful wines sampled at this event. But I will admit, I’m partial to Pessac-Léognan, home to whites and reds, Margaux, St-Julien, and Saint Emilion, perhaps because I lack the patience for the grandeur of Pauillac to unfold over time.
That said, there are so many wonderful wines to experience, especially if you’ve drifted away from Bordeaux wines in recent years. The 2022 vintage will be released and shipped later this year. Just remember, these wines are infants, and as always, patience is rewarded with silky, supple and elegant wines, but many will be ready to drink shortly after release. If you know a little bit about the Bordeaux appellations, wine experts have been enamored with top wines from almost every one of them. Accordingly, you don’t have to spend a fortune to find gems among this miracle of a vintage.
To learn more about Bordeaux wines, visit the Union des Grands Crus de Bordeaux website, https://ugcb.net/en/home/
To learn more about Bordeaux wines, visit the Union des Grands Crus de Bordeaux website, https://ugcb.net/en/home/